tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21017669779857643932023-11-16T14:44:56.019+00:00Adventures, Climbing, Mountains and Motorbikes.A blog about Adventures, Climbing, Mountains and Motorbikes.Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-89758497098172494822012-08-23T19:05:00.001+01:002012-08-24T10:07:24.839+01:00What are you looking for? And some other bits. <div style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">What are you looking for? In climbing? In motor-biking?
In education? In life? We set goals, sometimes not distinctive ones like “I
want to climb route X” but more general concepts like seeking out an adventure,
and work towards achieving them. These goals are often fluid and changeable,
effected by personal feelings and circumstances. And of course they are all
effected by the different favourites of individuals, sport-bike riders want
something different to motor-cross riders. Working out these goals, these
desires, can take time to figure out. Yet once they are discovered a journey
starts. The only challenge then really is to gather the motivation and
determination to achieve them (along with funds, strength and skills, which the
drive to complete the desire will provide for). The more focus that is given to
achieving these goals the easier they become. (Which is why this blog has been
so long without an update, a lack of focus). </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Before leaving Uni for the summer (which gives you
an idea how long it has been since an update) I had a couple of busy days out
with Lewis. First on the Great Orme then in Vivian Quarry (in the Llanberis
slate quarries). Lewis ready for some trad warmed up on Precious Metal (E1 5b),
a route I’ve done a couple of times which follows a leftwards-trending diagonal
cracks and edges sequence. Quickly dispatched, we moved to attempt Plumbline
(E3 5c) feeling brave (or possibly foolhardy) I racked up letting my eyes
wander over the upcoming route attempting to gain information to help my
onsight attempt. Setting off the moves were fairly steady, consistent and interesting.
The gear was going in well, then it got hard. With forearm pump kicking in on
the steep upper section and with a misreading of the gear size I placed a nut
that was far too small, I was suddenly gripped, not wanting to fall but unsure
of how to make progress up or down. A horrible catch-22 situation. Knowing that
if I did not make any movement I would fall anyway, I pushed upwards (following
the saying ‘If in doubt, run it out!’). A few moves later my grip gave way. In
the air, I felt the rubbish gear pull out, then I slammed into the rock.
Lowered to the floor, bleeding from various cuts of the sharp rock and buzzing
with adrenaline I was suitably chastised for getting the route wrong. With a
pull through of the ropes Lewis set off on the lead to try it, with some effort
he reached the top. I eventually battled up the route on the second, wondering
how I’d of faired if I had managed to stay on (poorly I think). Next up was
Excursion (E2 5b), a great route, with a good run-out towards the end which I
did onsight. Lewis having half-watched a strong team doing The Visionary (E4
6a) decided that he would like a shot on it. Misreading the route resulted in
him following a section between The Visionary and Clear White Light from about
half way. After some long run out sections and hard moves he reached the top
(new route: The Lost Visionary E5 6a, Lewis Gadd 11/June/2012). Having a
feeling that I would not reach the top and wanting to have some energy left for
the rest of the day I did not attempt to second. We moved further along and I
did Kanly (E2 5c), which I had attempted when I first went to the Orme with
BUMS in the first year. Knowing the route placed me at an advantage, but made
the physical moves no easier. The first section is a run out slab, then follows
an overhanging hand traverse and mantle to finish. Feeling strong I bashed on,
dealing with the overhang section that had stopped me last time. We packed the
gear away and headed down towards the Cave, but bumped into Owain, Chris and
Gregg who were trying some of the harder sport routes near the Cave. Lewis and
myself, psyched for some harder routes joined them. Roped up for Contusion
(F6c+) I set off, with one scary clip that involves a balanced behind head
reach the route was fantastic. I made a mess of one of the moves, attempting to
pull up rather than move sideways and rockover resulted in a fall but that was
all. A great route. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGMd6MPSVjYizyIob8eapQmZ5YjBPyE9uvPEKnB-sTeV89l_lXuNuauQ-N2dZ-MOtjcxu6AHFAaIcZWNjRuMMznRzZk4H8PO5QCg4-6_wx0BIfWrQoFCo5Fih4k-AC0BiVEL6wDfeIjj1o/s1600/DSCF3204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGMd6MPSVjYizyIob8eapQmZ5YjBPyE9uvPEKnB-sTeV89l_lXuNuauQ-N2dZ-MOtjcxu6AHFAaIcZWNjRuMMznRzZk4H8PO5QCg4-6_wx0BIfWrQoFCo5Fih4k-AC0BiVEL6wDfeIjj1o/s320/DSCF3204.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me attempting Plumblime (E3 5c).</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQbrPJz_9NdrYP_2G3W9eqgf4nMd1BJ0TiWV4eJqCUKWE-PQsMbUA4kiiaP3aHcUDA2PE86fB3PPPXZOu1SfDZx5R4XV50TvxxG4gW2YZt2SbnujBwjr0f7JgRhLCFZ0afisk16EmbwSv/s1600/DSCF3217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQbrPJz_9NdrYP_2G3W9eqgf4nMd1BJ0TiWV4eJqCUKWE-PQsMbUA4kiiaP3aHcUDA2PE86fB3PPPXZOu1SfDZx5R4XV50TvxxG4gW2YZt2SbnujBwjr0f7JgRhLCFZ0afisk16EmbwSv/s320/DSCF3217.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lewis (lost?) on a possibly new route, The Lost Visionary (E5 6a), just right of The Visionary (E4 6a)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">With a day’s rest I was on the bus again with Lewis
heading to the slate quarries, with one route in mind Comes the Dervish (E3 5c)
the mega-classic of the slate quarries. To warm up we went to the Conscience
Slab doing a couple of sports routes (loose and hard for the grade) including Mister,
Mister. Feeling a bit bold and wanting some practice for the Dervish, I led Is
It A Crime (E2/3 5c) one of the early bolted routes on the slate. Good,
run-out, slate fun. Back at the Dervish Slab there was a group on the Dervish,
so Lewis fancied a shot at Gin Palace (F7c). Battling bolt to bolt, move to
move it was great to see the determination in his climbing. Smears and diagonally-downwards
facing edges were employed as footholds. A full-on battle. He eventually bailed
just before the pull out onto the upper face, out of puff and with soaking wet
hand-holds in the crack it was a valiant effort. Then it was my turn for the
biggy, the route I’d planned to do and put off doing since the start of Uni,
Comes the Dervish. Racked up, a bit jittery and psyched it was a going to go
onsight (hopefully). I’m spare the details as I know several people who will
read this want the onsight. In summary: fantastic, long, more of a mind game
than physically hard, watch the leg pump. Upon reaching the top, a wave of
elation hit me the training, the practice and wait had been worth it. Abbing
down I could barely believe that I had managed it, especially at those points
where I had felt that I was going to come off. This is where the goal and the
means of reaching the goal have accumulated in its completion, as was discussed at the top. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKmWqu8dustMa3uDYP7vWOFpuB6gmM08JWsq0YM5bm7O6JcGumk7voPouq_OU2V7utfJvoZ9UbwbNl_DU1kOUDg6WWX-2Omn489IZdOMfNdKob6E-CSGCuZMuO0Ow3Vr4n93XCpOFnbXOE/s1600/DSCF3256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKmWqu8dustMa3uDYP7vWOFpuB6gmM08JWsq0YM5bm7O6JcGumk7voPouq_OU2V7utfJvoZ9UbwbNl_DU1kOUDg6WWX-2Omn489IZdOMfNdKob6E-CSGCuZMuO0Ow3Vr4n93XCpOFnbXOE/s320/DSCF3256.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lewis seconding Is It A Crime (E2/3 5c).</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR_OpodVTKl6UKim4BJqgjARikEvjlwf2xSvJizVmyKML_uMSjrxjsPv_IvD9X1x3-R4yfxSpzZtGLB3SyQvOf0glAZm6IhDRsPDW3h2TCnkcsErFT5ORoC41q7TKtO1pghATsSgqfvrTS/s1600/DSCF3264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR_OpodVTKl6UKim4BJqgjARikEvjlwf2xSvJizVmyKML_uMSjrxjsPv_IvD9X1x3-R4yfxSpzZtGLB3SyQvOf0glAZm6IhDRsPDW3h2TCnkcsErFT5ORoC41q7TKtO1pghATsSgqfvrTS/s320/DSCF3264.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lewis stuck into Gin Palace (F7c).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM5Upe0k2JLVdWQbb-j43AaIPgjpUAFWwSe8NIYlhYHXx5-mp3D9Fn66Qp3EVTI6eDdRNgpMid1XuYLRQFJPbQh8N8Kw85kjmW1rjKXPftP0G66YPLuaDXI7j9Y66ljkYXH5ynLo_Pknkq/s1600/DSCF3265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM5Upe0k2JLVdWQbb-j43AaIPgjpUAFWwSe8NIYlhYHXx5-mp3D9Fn66Qp3EVTI6eDdRNgpMid1XuYLRQFJPbQh8N8Kw85kjmW1rjKXPftP0G66YPLuaDXI7j9Y66ljkYXH5ynLo_Pknkq/s320/DSCF3265.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">From below, Lewis' legs are just visible.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwpUl0WtCRC25dbXy3nhsJq0e-W4Xz2f6R-TKPaSYjpK-TJx9kNcJ4ctA8RbG-7CMBKCGGHoXa93WY4aNEG3yho_mJ8Q6l5d3Mxh4YMfLGQPc_6KMqZb5rzycZrSn1IMcOc9RcODAuH0ph/s1600/DSCF3268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwpUl0WtCRC25dbXy3nhsJq0e-W4Xz2f6R-TKPaSYjpK-TJx9kNcJ4ctA8RbG-7CMBKCGGHoXa93WY4aNEG3yho_mJ8Q6l5d3Mxh4YMfLGQPc_6KMqZb5rzycZrSn1IMcOc9RcODAuH0ph/s320/DSCF3268.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Starting Comes the Dervish (E3 5c).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiONUNTtiWO4whhuzaMF6KaNCnrbdW0tsU_mBfwBHPar2ZDXoncGHdpyGh6LHoM2C2c2IcqxGyFuRsJVkTSaQlH_TNJi0xhtJw08iphdKYkocFZfcXIyLURrM12PKbG_g2gEanRmpApCyHr/s1600/DSCF3272.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiONUNTtiWO4whhuzaMF6KaNCnrbdW0tsU_mBfwBHPar2ZDXoncGHdpyGh6LHoM2C2c2IcqxGyFuRsJVkTSaQlH_TNJi0xhtJw08iphdKYkocFZfcXIyLURrM12PKbG_g2gEanRmpApCyHr/s320/DSCF3272.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A bit higher.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX_LPhLcmG3kNS8dz_EFqTARn_7oIbt2g5ZCaw2Z7L-dHXYb1Dm4vxE0YuGj9n6guZXt0WyZ2gax4jHR4kK094Y-Ea9RDl-5xoTBd_KZl9nxj9D6DmcJ4splzlZe91RNXto2x4klcyvWQm/s1600/DSCF3281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX_LPhLcmG3kNS8dz_EFqTARn_7oIbt2g5ZCaw2Z7L-dHXYb1Dm4vxE0YuGj9n6guZXt0WyZ2gax4jHR4kK094Y-Ea9RDl-5xoTBd_KZl9nxj9D6DmcJ4splzlZe91RNXto2x4klcyvWQm/s320/DSCF3281.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">At the over lap.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">With rubbish weather and work getting in the way this
summer has been hit and miss for trad climbing. A visit to Burbage North
resulted in a poorly thought though attempt at the Sentinel (E2 5c), with a
couple of falls due to no warm up. This came about because I was teaching my
mum and her friend Meeta on some routes nearby. The overhanging steepness would
be fine without having to place gear. A brilliant route never-the-less. On the
same day I visited Yarncliffe Quarry to do Zapple (HVS 5b) a route that I saw
on my first day doing trad and have wanted to do since. The route follows a
zig-zaging crack line up the quarry wall. Typical crack climbing methods of
climbing and gear are all employed. A highly recommended three-star route. Just
try and go when the midge levels are low and the days have been dry for a
while. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih0NWI7mQVx7kkGfKqo039BB6-M9dGli10yY2YAsmkfT6Xw3fdXg7bJyTCo1y7qMnfrD9W2cQRUWusFYVZXdfZa8ibG0WfE_v8by554KtE5VeNr-Nfw7lUuvq4m6oBAQtp208lYyrB1KJ3/s1600/DSCF3290+mk+ii.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih0NWI7mQVx7kkGfKqo039BB6-M9dGli10yY2YAsmkfT6Xw3fdXg7bJyTCo1y7qMnfrD9W2cQRUWusFYVZXdfZa8ibG0WfE_v8by554KtE5VeNr-Nfw7lUuvq4m6oBAQtp208lYyrB1KJ3/s320/DSCF3290+mk+ii.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me on the Sentinel (E2 5c).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTfZh9mz04u4P1e8lEc8IIQ8LYucZgZMwwNDNSSPKgzAJj1IQkpNze8tWwTyVSFWgL-3cwJ0sjTYOQFUIjbeeEPTPg0yfr0DdMSTinc6QKgCeaSPIPnabr0SSoAiIT29GMWKcPiNnO3b9p/s320/DSCF3296.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="240" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me on Zapple (HVS 5b).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaQiPoa81N7deyIGYd9zSd9IQkASECQrc1y8H2CwOCAqeV7o43npR7fobyS-iTOFk9Sw9tQPoTtNx0OiCh4xoJYcBDQ6oVYJeMc4SSTzOVCodXOkr9e-F0bOuS51UMTeZh1bmUf3akeQzF/s1600/DSCF3303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaQiPoa81N7deyIGYd9zSd9IQkASECQrc1y8H2CwOCAqeV7o43npR7fobyS-iTOFk9Sw9tQPoTtNx0OiCh4xoJYcBDQ6oVYJeMc4SSTzOVCodXOkr9e-F0bOuS51UMTeZh1bmUf3akeQzF/s320/DSCF3303.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">And a bit higher up.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">A visit to Curbar was in order, an expectation of
sandbags was in mind. Warming up on P.M.C. 1 (HS 4a) was a good start with a
switch in the route around half way, from crack climbing to a series of ledges.
The exposure of the finish was good (however my mum, who was belayer/seconder
for the day thought otherwise). Next was Owl’s Arete (VS 4b) and Bel Ami (VS
4b) both different types of route, both worth doing. Avalanche Wall (HVS 5a)
was a great route, using two parallel cracks and then some burly moves to
finish. I had an attempt on Elder Crack
(E2 5c) but bailed upon realising that from about a third of the way from just
under the crux to the top relied on massive gear (head size or larger). One to
come back to with some size six/seven cams. To finish the day I got on The
Peapod (HVS 5b), a psychically strenuous route that involves offwidth
techniques. I fell once, stupidly, near the top of the Pod section having just
placed some gear I relaxed and had my foot pop off. Down I went inside the Pod.
After a quick breather back at the highest bit of gear I pulled back on and
finished the route. A must do route for those going to Curbar. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicnA-NykjU56XanvNpxP4lC799NgyK49WPVOFHLx45BUtVUKrz-LuHbxJN9GfbQ2LHZzKXplYOuFxP8gQJd650Pv_B6nWFRKw4TNJ61XUklERVkyjEonkRiD_CZahkzRNILL_NB59nqAJc/s1600/DSCF3401.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicnA-NykjU56XanvNpxP4lC799NgyK49WPVOFHLx45BUtVUKrz-LuHbxJN9GfbQ2LHZzKXplYOuFxP8gQJd650Pv_B6nWFRKw4TNJ61XUklERVkyjEonkRiD_CZahkzRNILL_NB59nqAJc/s320/DSCF3401.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">In the Peapod (HVS 5b).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Charlie came to visit a weekend and a bit ago keen
for some Peak District Trad. We set off to Millstone on the Saturday, in
attempt for Charlie to have a go on the type of climbing she hates, Crack
Climbing. With the Mall (VS 4c) to start things looked promising. A good
classic (but not a top fifty like the guide book suggests). Next Charlie
attempted Embankment 2 (VS 4c) a brilliant route that follows a pair of
vertical cracks about two foot apart, she managed to get to nearly halfway then
bailed as she was struggling to make progress. A good but difficult introduction
to crack climbing. With a quick pull through of the ropes I set off to finish
the route. A brief think at the crux was required and soon enough I was at the
top. Charlie came up on the second, quite happily (apart from having to really
work hard to retrieve her high-point gear). Next was Bond Street (HVS 5a) a
wide crack route. I got about half before giving up as the weather was hot and
the jams I was using just would not stay sat (more practice I think is
required). Charlie got on Svelt (HVS 5a) and then really enjoyed Great Slab (HS
4b), well apart from having difficulties setting up the belay. Next day we went
to Black Rocks. Charlie attempted Stonnis Crack (HS 4b) a real fright fest at
the grade and probably deserves a whole extra grade at least, but Black Rocks
has the most sandbag routes in the whole of the Peak. After getting scared at
the crux, she came down I led and finished it. Rain came in and we slowly under
the cover of a big rock packed the gear away and went home. A bit of a disappointing
day really because of the weather. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih9vGfxdZkN4FJKKvF1D8dCCV6-XxPPZ6Xy_-HHQanx0Of15EV2BTLP8lVl-emSPc2upFvASRHn0IfphkjUHP80ANjMN2TL3GYR9Q3cDXjufJn8D1uRmYkV0Zn22fSxloLspTKHlMDBsxk/s1600/DSCF3465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih9vGfxdZkN4FJKKvF1D8dCCV6-XxPPZ6Xy_-HHQanx0Of15EV2BTLP8lVl-emSPc2upFvASRHn0IfphkjUHP80ANjMN2TL3GYR9Q3cDXjufJn8D1uRmYkV0Zn22fSxloLspTKHlMDBsxk/s320/DSCF3465.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me on Embankment 2 (VS 4c).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiSOyuYuZX57XbkyaSvbZwMnpdfuwiZbCVNVH0jXpcyU-biI2tnKOVzOw7mj8qTiZ3Gn0jPkSTayqq4gVbwa6vEROwk1hDyiCMcvrRdWUlLM8zufl-cwWXShiMXfl_t_gTBKlgKTjcbBhs/s1600/DSCF3469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiSOyuYuZX57XbkyaSvbZwMnpdfuwiZbCVNVH0jXpcyU-biI2tnKOVzOw7mj8qTiZ3Gn0jPkSTayqq4gVbwa6vEROwk1hDyiCMcvrRdWUlLM8zufl-cwWXShiMXfl_t_gTBKlgKTjcbBhs/s320/DSCF3469.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A bit higher.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjscnw9MHp8KtzwspU2OLQUSsBPzF_ZEUe_tWoOqjAm3LfzDuWZfQXZoQXzXnpMHRc5FmuSAGs6ZvrTChf6bb7uzxl1t24qhUsEZy_sHnYG-Nuihmzt19Pk5pXkImgwowAC0Bk-ToNcB4kN/s1600/DSCF3475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjscnw9MHp8KtzwspU2OLQUSsBPzF_ZEUe_tWoOqjAm3LfzDuWZfQXZoQXzXnpMHRc5FmuSAGs6ZvrTChf6bb7uzxl1t24qhUsEZy_sHnYG-Nuihmzt19Pk5pXkImgwowAC0Bk-ToNcB4kN/s320/DSCF3475.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Charlie on Great Slab (HS 4b)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">This Sunday just gone (19/08/2012) I went out with
some of the Notts Uni Climbing Club (I’m not a splitter for those of you in
BUMS) we went to Matlock with an intension of visiting Willersly Castle (limestone)
and Black Rocks (grit). My “warm-up” route at Willersly turned into a bit of an
epic. Sycamore Flake, VS 4c according to the guidebook, I should have known
from the start that it was going to be difficult. A green offwidth to start,
led to delicate moves along a large flake, which in turn led to hard(ish)
cracks and crimps which were either green, had plants covering or very dirty
making easy climbing feel particularly precarious. I reached the belay point
amazed to have stayed on the rock. Bringing up my second was interesting as
Colin has hearing difficulties, made worse by the fact that sweat stops the
hearing aids from working. Trying to tell him information was tricky. Once at
the belay we swapped over gear and Colin set off. As the route was harder than
the grade suggested and with large amounts of exposure he decided after about
three meters of climbing to come back to the belay and for us to swap over, I’m
quite glad he did for the route got even more challenging. The crux moves were
dealt with quickly as Colin’s gear was sound, but then the rock got loose. Gear
placements spread out and rope drag a pain. The finish of the route was
gripping, as I pulled myself up the last metre or so on ivy. Belay set up, I
took a deep breath and slowly but surely brought Colin up. Adventurous climbing
at its best. After a speedy abseil we went to Black Rocks. Colin led Curved
Crack (HS 4b) and then we did Lean Man’s Climb (VS 5a). Lean Man’s can be done
in two pitches and to give Colin a share we did this. The route entails a lay
back on smears for the feet around a rock elephant’s ear and then a series of
cracks to the top. Good fun and committing for the layback. Charley and Steph did Stonnis Crack and Lone
Tree Gully (S 4a). </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSeg2cKkCxAbmqDqUIMvBx498pDNTex_mRtggo6xQJgyfgVORnN2vFpS-x6ZgTm_mJNdnQaDs3QQ0ERTZ19U5PlgSd4P1m6X3cRD6haPmAfxEHrNdtK_X2X4Jr4VBjcPvLuJ81RAsVgVT-/s1600/391185_10100500662641848_191129841_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSeg2cKkCxAbmqDqUIMvBx498pDNTex_mRtggo6xQJgyfgVORnN2vFpS-x6ZgTm_mJNdnQaDs3QQ0ERTZ19U5PlgSd4P1m6X3cRD6haPmAfxEHrNdtK_X2X4Jr4VBjcPvLuJ81RAsVgVT-/s320/391185_10100500662641848_191129841_n.jpg" width="239" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Colin setting off on pitch 2 of Sycamore Flake (VS 4c).
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<span style="font-size: small; line-height: 115%;">© </span><span style="font-size: small;">Charley Carpenter.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtbiatUngzyKDbR9CUR-19T8ONx3NT3S_stCVnCfnkAT70ZQzPIQXUzdgWWWZdT0QrC7pPDzwiuGyAXTDEg37gShyCsZnPvp8BlGnjnUd2IUGF7JapG7dv2hUTLFYGezIzHNfPKgDDN0lw/s1600/DSCF3539.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtbiatUngzyKDbR9CUR-19T8ONx3NT3S_stCVnCfnkAT70ZQzPIQXUzdgWWWZdT0QrC7pPDzwiuGyAXTDEg37gShyCsZnPvp8BlGnjnUd2IUGF7JapG7dv2hUTLFYGezIzHNfPKgDDN0lw/s320/DSCF3539.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Charley (top) and Steph (bottom) on Stonnis Crack (HS 4b). </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm88ykapl_zYnWNDTLRLV0Tds8rZrKGji7krZNtxmiNjanWNElNO_SYiQJAMkYXkjwpVj3Sch1nOPEvDRCGzcITkA03hN3b8BJ_gAZ_Z6qLCLIup4aODu3rHN-o5suBInc8LiyyeXVs-EM/s1600/DSCF3540.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm88ykapl_zYnWNDTLRLV0Tds8rZrKGji7krZNtxmiNjanWNElNO_SYiQJAMkYXkjwpVj3Sch1nOPEvDRCGzcITkA03hN3b8BJ_gAZ_Z6qLCLIup4aODu3rHN-o5suBInc8LiyyeXVs-EM/s320/DSCF3540.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Colin on pitch 2 of Lean Man's Climb (VS 5a). </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">A mini-adventure was Drum Camp, a world music
festival in Norfolk that I go with my Dad to each year, except that he is in
New Zealand. So with a loaded motorbike I went, partied and came back. Great
stuff and I managed to miss all the traffic by filtering passed the cars. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Also I did a cirum-nav of Kinder Scout with my mum.
The weird rock formations up there were fantastic. The walk/very easy scramble
up Grindsbrook and down Crowden Clough topped the day off. It is definitely a
place to visit with the large expanses of peat bogs and weather worn grit
boulders to play on. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLU_eQhOyeryRCqtJfcV7G4EGW8SvSqAz9XlZvuvrfyhrQNYBw4ql5QgUO_5dIbahhFjfwJWNvRNbME34_sJUs5JM2YCqDL-kpql72xWwDfvrVaENKXUyxxFBtOSLs7_o56P-LnQpE7GY/s1600/DSCF3433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLU_eQhOyeryRCqtJfcV7G4EGW8SvSqAz9XlZvuvrfyhrQNYBw4ql5QgUO_5dIbahhFjfwJWNvRNbME34_sJUs5JM2YCqDL-kpql72xWwDfvrVaENKXUyxxFBtOSLs7_o56P-LnQpE7GY/s320/DSCF3433.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">One of the many strangely shaped rocks on Kinder, looks like a sheep.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWtIC5gNkSgH_OIWtkksAbwSvwPF6UHg6t4siWZ6TqLv2JMDc0y5LP88HGn1oEpW9k0MFwUcrInsvoqbBxJcgV_h2Rk-Dd8Ot0nR2Dp9NwSTtn6RaottyU6WGBJNhCRrsz8UJh4jEUomny/s1600/DSCF3446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWtIC5gNkSgH_OIWtkksAbwSvwPF6UHg6t4siWZ6TqLv2JMDc0y5LP88HGn1oEpW9k0MFwUcrInsvoqbBxJcgV_h2Rk-Dd8Ot0nR2Dp9NwSTtn6RaottyU6WGBJNhCRrsz8UJh4jEUomny/s320/DSCF3446.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me prancing around on top on the trig point. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4RRI2rNZN5khJe-0pHRZ30Q09fUifcTjEuGYSe_TOutDp5sc5BIxGgrSKj3dzrDl9ZWnoheKoPo5AZoYMBiYpzmASGEsi3nUc_mdtXGVENtGFUVc8xfhnHiSAzmofNr4ffd5Vn7LpkDL/s1600/DSCF3448.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4RRI2rNZN5khJe-0pHRZ30Q09fUifcTjEuGYSe_TOutDp5sc5BIxGgrSKj3dzrDl9ZWnoheKoPo5AZoYMBiYpzmASGEsi3nUc_mdtXGVENtGFUVc8xfhnHiSAzmofNr4ffd5Vn7LpkDL/s320/DSCF3448.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Some more weirdly shaped rocks. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Coming back to the start, what am I looking for?
Adventure, yes please lots of that. Mentally pushing myself that is good also.
But as I go on climbing, motorbiking and wandering up mountains I think I will
find different aspects that fascinate me and drive me onwards. It is good to
step back and think about these things time to time. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Recently I bought, then actually read, <i>The Rock Warrior’s Way </i>by Arno Ilgner
(rubbish, corny title I know). It is a good book, with methods of stepping back
and reassessing why and how you climb. There are also exercises in the back of
the book to help implement the concepts discussed. He deals with some of the factors of drive, motivation and particularly fear.</span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> Well worth a read and
dipping into now and then. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Some film clips:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nb-YMwqwW8&feature=relmfu">Power of Jam - Nico Favresse and Seán Villanueva</a> </span></b></span></h1>
<h1 style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHHGp5ot9YY&feature=related%20%20">Ice, Anarchy & the Pursuit of Madness Part 1 </a>A great series of three videos.</span></h1>
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<span style="font-size: large; font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgKBQ1P3t54&feature=relmfu"><span class="long-title">Long Ways - Jonny Copp on Alpine Climbing</span></a></span></h1>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://vimeo.com/46856767" style="font-weight: normal;">The Greatest Show on Earth</a><span style="font-weight: normal;"> Which of course is the Isle of Man TT. A well put together film about the race. </span></span></h1>
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</span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></h1>
Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-56725883061150773952012-06-09T19:03:00.000+01:002012-06-09T20:35:33.674+01:00Tangoing with a German Schoolgirl over the Rainbow to meet Dali<br />
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With the weather over the last week being a mixed bag of
cloud, rain and the occasional glimpse of sunshine I’ve been bashing around the
Llanberis slate quarries. Their surreal, industrial atmosphere provides a
playground for climbers, on probably the most marmite of rock types. From the
strange three-dimensional routes to tentative slab routes requiring trust in
edges the size of match-sticks to make progress. Although the rock initially appears
to be a cold, dark-purple-grey up close the subtle shades and different colours
appear. </div>
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Rocking up at Vivian quarry (01/06/12) with Lewis we had no
real plan, digging the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Llanberis Slate </i>guide
(by Ground Up) we found a link up of routes, The East Face of Vivian (E2
5c/6a). Gearing up I set off up Mental Lentils (HVS 5b), a classic easy route
on the slate (but is suffering from polish). Pulling over the top of the route,
I set up a belay. Hunting around on my harness for my belay plate I realised
that I had not put it on the gear loops. Shouting to Lewis about this issue I
placed him on an Italian hitch and brought him up. Lewis set off up The Monster
Kitten (E1 5c), a tough route. The leader has to choose whether to hang around
placing gear therefore suffering major leg pump or to crack on running out on
the not-so-good gear. Lewis picked the
latter. I quickly raced up on the second. Sorting out the gear, it was my turn
to lead Too Bald to be Bold (E2 5c). The route lives up to its name in the
first half with no good gear, loose blocks and some tricky moves. The top
section is the crux, protected by a bolt. It requires delicate steps on small
nothings that are fairly fragile (the route could do with more traffic to
resolve this issue). Pulling over the top I set up a belay around some trees
and set to hauling up the rucksacks. I’m not looking forward to ever big walling,
just pulling a pair of rucksacks thirty metres was hard work. Lewis easily
raced up to meet me. Checking the time we decided to stop on the Dervish level.
Lewis suggested that I did The Last Tango in Paris (E1 5b), a long route (as in
forty-five metres long), naturally split into four sections; a diagonal
traverse out right, several mantel moves directly up, a leftwards-rising crack,
(then once pulled over the protruding lip) delicate face-climbing. The initial traverse
is fairly simple and able to take lots of gear, but does not require it. The
mantel moves are safe but feel slightly precarious as you are moving up on
flat, polished ledges not really requiring friction but careful balance to make
progress. The crux moves come as you swing around on to the main face of the
slab, gear is good but placing it generates a large amount of forearm pump. The
moves are solid. Once over the lip, I sighed relief but in slight shock at the
length of the route I pushed on, placed a couple of cams, a reached the top. I
brought Lewis up, he flew along quite happily. As I lowered him down he had a
look at Flashdance (E5 6a), testing the gear (a nut placed sideways and a DMM offset half in, confidence inspiring!). Once I was down,
Lewis racked up, psyched up and set off. Smooth climbing on small holds, Lewis
moved perfectly. As a belayer it was terrifying, long run-outs and poor gear,
meant that I was going to have to sprint backwards to catch him before he
decked. Intense focus was required. Completing the crux moves Lewis moved over
to the finish which goes up Comes the Dervish (E3 5c) an easy and more relaxed
route in comparison. An amazing effort. I seconded, a scary prospect when I
pulled out the gear that protects the crux because even though I could not deck
a massive swing was possible. I stopped just before joining the Dervish, as I
really want to do it onsight. Packed up we raced back to the bus. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiktYM37d-qcK82D4ovWDQOK5MOaJUizoOcBRn7Bgz7fw9zwqwelxSbuD_hfaFRo5NJwxIMm2-Szy1BvLjFDA4LlWvfkirCT733sadbsY3Ir-zKQXMvpzHoIFisJ7QTXtfF68auIq8Kb6IU/s1600/DSCF3078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiktYM37d-qcK82D4ovWDQOK5MOaJUizoOcBRn7Bgz7fw9zwqwelxSbuD_hfaFRo5NJwxIMm2-Szy1BvLjFDA4LlWvfkirCT733sadbsY3Ir-zKQXMvpzHoIFisJ7QTXtfF68auIq8Kb6IU/s320/DSCF3078.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on The Last Tango in Paris (E1 5b) at the end of the initial traverse. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjN_1HiJK4h3IawlxM5hHRcMxGPm1EWtrig8ikjbNL6LtWJ-ZlOaRKLSPwiaDVMHNlRIqsCbdVF38Px_pj0Q_9wgtyTqoLQtKrK0ynCLBBl0leYBTOozCDhQ_pUkDrXlHnDO4gM13jtBRL/s1600/DSCF3082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjN_1HiJK4h3IawlxM5hHRcMxGPm1EWtrig8ikjbNL6LtWJ-ZlOaRKLSPwiaDVMHNlRIqsCbdVF38Px_pj0Q_9wgtyTqoLQtKrK0ynCLBBl0leYBTOozCDhQ_pUkDrXlHnDO4gM13jtBRL/s320/DSCF3082.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lewis setting off on Flashdance (E5 6a).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoykjDptywst9-v92UxWlUro7lRXeiUmM9xAFaRkEPIQh5peJ4N_yYtluI4ITGvC52tEunW36xrcHae0jPivAgfxDv7BfpAzj5axz6W8HR1AGZpZ-UR_ONNiuLiPDDo60EdfajLbuXB9XQ/s1600/DSCF3087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoykjDptywst9-v92UxWlUro7lRXeiUmM9xAFaRkEPIQh5peJ4N_yYtluI4ITGvC52tEunW36xrcHae0jPivAgfxDv7BfpAzj5axz6W8HR1AGZpZ-UR_ONNiuLiPDDo60EdfajLbuXB9XQ/s320/DSCF3087.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lewis just pre-crux, contemplating the moves to come.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-ci08g_7oU_I6cMzaqYAtzy5jEzJNAcaccu-AQCN1qCaa2l26ncyV87VZnvrrm6PKd4Xe8qsozFTc2UAkcCtdhVuH7t7ZsQJlEY1g4cS8C03TSjyAQySKL_sGjud0eAMOzi7ni_ULXUF/s1600/DSCF3093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-ci08g_7oU_I6cMzaqYAtzy5jEzJNAcaccu-AQCN1qCaa2l26ncyV87VZnvrrm6PKd4Xe8qsozFTc2UAkcCtdhVuH7t7ZsQJlEY1g4cS8C03TSjyAQySKL_sGjud0eAMOzi7ni_ULXUF/s320/DSCF3093.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Dervish Slab. The dark diagonal line rising right to left is Flashdance. </td></tr>
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With the weather still being poor I went out with Charlie back
to the slate and up to the Rainbow Walls area. Charlie noticed a couple of E2’s
on the Manatese Level, noticing one of them was a Dawes’ route I set my sights
on one of them, Angel on Fire (E2 5c). I racked up, taking all my cams, hexs
and tri-cams as the route had several obvious crack-lines. The route has a reasonable
start but is run out. Good gear follows. The route has typical strange slate
movements, tackling the blocks, perfectly parallel cracks and small crimps. Once
all the difficulties are over, including a precarious step using a slate smear
and a very loose top out, the belay needs to be set up. The belay is a slate
hut on the level that you have climbed to. I walked round the hut, tied my
ropes together and set up ready to bring Charlie up. One of the strangest belay
set ups I’ve used. Charlie raced up the route. Next up was German Schoolgirl
(E2 5c), a slate classic. A corner route that chews through small gear. Having
a reasonable reach makes a massive difference, as the climbing involves long
reaches and scrambling the feet up to various size ledges. Before long the difficulties
were over and the top reached. Once I’d stripped the gear out we set off to the
Rainbow Slab. The Rainbow Slab is an amazing geological and mining event. It is
a ripple that moves across the slate block, clearly evident from miles away.
The colours of the rock change throughout the slab. Beautiful, in its weird industrial
nature. Charlie wanting to attempt the classic line of Pull My Daisy (E2 5c), a
line just left of the rainbow. Racked up and ready to go, she set off. The
first gear is fairly high up and small. A few more metres up and with some more
small gear in she tried to move up on the first crux. Hands on good holds and on
small feet but she could not find the right size gear, the panic started. I
could hear it in her voice, that raising pitch, the desperation and slight note
of anger. Not being able to place the gear I took the ropes tight and she fell.
Landing on solid gear she was safe, but slightly shaken, her first proper trad
fall. I suspect she was more angry that she’d failed to do the route than
bothered by the fall. Once I’d retrieved the gear by dangling off a skyhook (a
hook of metal that relies on gravity and faith more than anything else), I
racked up for Red and Yellow and Pink and Green and Orange and Purple and Blue
(E1 5a). This route is forty metres long, has barely any gear and although the
climbing is steady it involves some technical balances. Once I’d pulled on it
was several metres to the first gear, a sling round a friable flake that does
not inspire much confidence. Next gear was about fifteen metres, placing a
skyhook weighted down by two sets of nuts and with a long sling, I stepped
sideways and managed to get a tri-cam into a shot-hole. Removing the skyhook
thinking I might need it later I moved up. A delicate step left and upwards I
reached the large ledge about two-thirds up. Stepping on to the next section I
wrapped a sling around a metal bar and raced to the top. Bringing Charlie up on
the second, she cruised up the route. There was a strange mental process that
went off on the route, I was questioning myself on the value of the route to
possible cost of failure. Although I eventually decided that the route was
worth doing, the internal measuring of these factors (experience of the climb
and enjoyment vs. the risk i.e. death/massive injury) stopped me, whilst
balanced on a four inch wide ledge. I’ve never experienced such deep
questioning, even when soloing. I suspect as I increase the grade I climb at
these mental debates will become more common. We raced back down to Llanberis
and had a good pint in the Heights Hotel.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh27vNZtNcEaWiQCUdBuCZYnAg45YsqGXukdFB3F5lCDPjKZl6wFT6WZq1u5nk8BSNl0JmtiaZE_6Py2whoZUkQ2_EKnyBDF9nRLXf0n48w_LTHfgD3L7wIOU7L-1cClK9e2U2SUd-sR_kf/s1600/DSCF3097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh27vNZtNcEaWiQCUdBuCZYnAg45YsqGXukdFB3F5lCDPjKZl6wFT6WZq1u5nk8BSNl0JmtiaZE_6Py2whoZUkQ2_EKnyBDF9nRLXf0n48w_LTHfgD3L7wIOU7L-1cClK9e2U2SUd-sR_kf/s320/DSCF3097.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Angel on Fire (E2 5c).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0gGfC3tEAndz3z2a_6r3zH1QVz9HTkMisPG8EcZbIRoC2EzT9z1i8wAjXL5oVSyeNQRF8_k9Qb04Ivf6EXE-tT30PpS074ia8RDFObIDUHW4kfJDEaKk6vkJUmS7WC7cydIa5GsslFPEy/s1600/DSCF3099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0gGfC3tEAndz3z2a_6r3zH1QVz9HTkMisPG8EcZbIRoC2EzT9z1i8wAjXL5oVSyeNQRF8_k9Qb04Ivf6EXE-tT30PpS074ia8RDFObIDUHW4kfJDEaKk6vkJUmS7WC7cydIa5GsslFPEy/s320/DSCF3099.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bit higher up.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsP2QsKr806BJAu_GXIhjzsRiECrhGvQqdGNfjuqSiigpd3KjgiOX8Waz7vuyYUwdne34kcY8dkX2s9q-YhULVlvEy_ed084niUGkumqgCocIS4Y0BITvvgm1Vw3T4twbVj3eDJfK_UsIJ/s1600/DSCF3109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsP2QsKr806BJAu_GXIhjzsRiECrhGvQqdGNfjuqSiigpd3KjgiOX8Waz7vuyYUwdne34kcY8dkX2s9q-YhULVlvEy_ed084niUGkumqgCocIS4Y0BITvvgm1Vw3T4twbVj3eDJfK_UsIJ/s320/DSCF3109.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">German Schoolgirl (E2 5c). </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9wUENhtyvfFmXHo1M-ovGTNC6mtxK6nAoIdo4iqOGeVVi_y6RH76eBEzcLhW66Vc1YEflcM2UEiJwJUH3MVrLMIylLb_OuupVt7RKoBZSVu5YNLmMTNz4Ba_fy4teBOxTnS331KQfWNzW/s1600/DSCF3114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9wUENhtyvfFmXHo1M-ovGTNC6mtxK6nAoIdo4iqOGeVVi_y6RH76eBEzcLhW66Vc1YEflcM2UEiJwJUH3MVrLMIylLb_OuupVt7RKoBZSVu5YNLmMTNz4Ba_fy4teBOxTnS331KQfWNzW/s320/DSCF3114.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charlie attempting Pull my Daisy (E2 5c). </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXNjVowM0F03Sw6r5jq7Gvic4XK7sLgYUGQ1s_n2qquC49lB8DfATIT_j2B4vOSfTZZJWE1WUCgocfaa6oPSl4H3jMr5EKzSd54eaGZuX5_I2H3GCERETRv7vMBiLSV-l6r3STmXsyG5cr/s1600/DSCF3116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXNjVowM0F03Sw6r5jq7Gvic4XK7sLgYUGQ1s_n2qquC49lB8DfATIT_j2B4vOSfTZZJWE1WUCgocfaa6oPSl4H3jMr5EKzSd54eaGZuX5_I2H3GCERETRv7vMBiLSV-l6r3STmXsyG5cr/s320/DSCF3116.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Running it out on Red and Yellow... (E1 5a).</td></tr>
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After having a rest day we headed back to the quarries
(04/06/12). Sitting in Pete’s Eats in Llanberis, Charlie and myself worked out
which routes we’d like to do over a pint mug of tea. Dali’s Hole was the target
with Holy, Holy, Holy (E2 5c) being the main route to tackle. Charlie went
under the fence and I climbed over delicately standing with the spines of the fence
between my legs, possibly the most dangerous thing I did that day. Feeling
strong and confident I racked up to do Holy, Holy, Holy straight away. The
route follows an open book corner crack, which from the ground looks remarkably
easy yet as is normal with slate appearances are not what they seem. Ready to
go I set off, placed a few pieces of bomber gear then lay-backed for glory up
the crux section. Semi-smears on the slate whilst turning in my toes to try and
gain further purchase in the crack proved successful and quickly I reached the
top. Charlie happily came up on the second. Buoyed by her ease on the route,
she quickly forgot the issues from the previous trip and opted to try the route
on the lead. Geared up and ready to go she set off, making short but steady
work of the route. The only nervous section was when, unwittingly, she kicked
out her top runner post-crux. Staying calm she blasted onwards and topped out.
Having a look in the guide book we spotted some routes down in the hole,
setting up an abseil we lowered in. Dali’s Hole is one of the weirdest places
in the whole of the quarries. Trees have grown and died, leaving white, spectral
remains with water surrounding them. The water changes colour and height on a regular
basis, from being a deep blue and half way up the hole to clear and shallow.
The industrial remains that are scattered around just add to the strangeness of
the place. Without any imagination required the place would not go amiss in a
sci-fi film. It certainly lives up to its name, surreal and dreamlike. We
wandered over to look at two routes, Le Cochan (HVS 5b) and John
Verybiglongwords (E1 5a). I suspect that there has either been rock fall or the
grade is wrong for Le Cochan as the start looked desperate and unsafe, however
the upper sections look good. We decided to do John Verybiglongwords, its
brilliant description in the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Llanberis
Slate </i>originally written by Paul Williams made it even more attractive. A
perfect arête of slate with little notched edges leading up, at largest, a foot
wide fin of rock. Having done Red and Yellow… a couple of days before the run
out seemed perfectly fine. The climbing is obvious but committing, with a crux
around twelve metres and before the first piece of gear. Around fourteen metres
you place some gear and pull over the top. A virtual solo. Set up a belay was
complex and slightly dodgy, which involved the words ‘Charlie the belay is
fairly sound but please don’t fall’. She raced up on the second. Topped out and
declared it was an amazing route. Personally I’d recommend it but be careful
and know you have a couple of grades in hand. Next was At the Cost of a Rope (E1
5b, but felt more like E1 5c). The start follows a couple of hard moves then an
inch wide crack presents itself on the left, with a tri-cam placed it become
safe to continue. Getting feet up near your hands becomes the name of the game.
Once the challenges that are faced in relation to the corner the difficulties rapidly
ease and it becomes a plod to the top. Charlie her usual good style blasted to
the top. Day over we climbed back over the fence and headed back to Llanberis
for another cuppa at Pete’s Eats. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNWt3DvEPb62UW4MOddVg7Ty6DiHw1f4ZxLJXK53jW7PR-kQJ_RISSaoKuWt10DrS8oVp6XOzzdQHnUZUjFkHo4Z3aVZeKXH1UQ8JxFRNkWZTVqVugb5ysMQwHH12kAyCzZuBLGz_kyXxe/s1600/DSCF3118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNWt3DvEPb62UW4MOddVg7Ty6DiHw1f4ZxLJXK53jW7PR-kQJ_RISSaoKuWt10DrS8oVp6XOzzdQHnUZUjFkHo4Z3aVZeKXH1UQ8JxFRNkWZTVqVugb5ysMQwHH12kAyCzZuBLGz_kyXxe/s320/DSCF3118.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Holy, Holy, Holy (E2 5c).</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4cGRlOcO1mlYjLMR950B8pVh6uyKZOYQVvVZOEO3s-HU-3DK9HP7YiImEn1SeTTZS5KlHj6eQNW1OLNezEhjt4Pv_6brKc5Ta-b2RFNE_hZSse7ybjqP3ugxkzWFaSiUBnaFAKbXqzBYV/s1600/DSCF3124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4cGRlOcO1mlYjLMR950B8pVh6uyKZOYQVvVZOEO3s-HU-3DK9HP7YiImEn1SeTTZS5KlHj6eQNW1OLNezEhjt4Pv_6brKc5Ta-b2RFNE_hZSse7ybjqP3ugxkzWFaSiUBnaFAKbXqzBYV/s320/DSCF3124.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charlie near the top of Holy, Holy, Holy.</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBH3TepN3mmG_we4PaKW1oUcmAGE5CGFPEg9fwzRFIomxJjKyMP6bsFb2NdZPcjZArJ_X01XMoiIrJDendbAf1lOIJC7GbuJC62ahAMVmaXN6bIoXQAZfMvIhPomOxdAG5BwePDvq4wjwQ/s1600/DSCF3127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBH3TepN3mmG_we4PaKW1oUcmAGE5CGFPEg9fwzRFIomxJjKyMP6bsFb2NdZPcjZArJ_X01XMoiIrJDendbAf1lOIJC7GbuJC62ahAMVmaXN6bIoXQAZfMvIhPomOxdAG5BwePDvq4wjwQ/s320/DSCF3127.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the delightful weirdness of Dali's Hole. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiByZ9BWioQx51V7WlweSEkGDrR9rD9VHKDiF6scCmdOuzYDpCcaxkbzPztzOBUyXwMfY2htQejzJ567DD5VHaLTCSi73GDgqvCDJgwQowegXfmoGBh6Qz3dT9yvknwdJxsipVX0V6ApQcO/s1600/DSCF3128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiByZ9BWioQx51V7WlweSEkGDrR9rD9VHKDiF6scCmdOuzYDpCcaxkbzPztzOBUyXwMfY2htQejzJ567DD5VHaLTCSi73GDgqvCDJgwQowegXfmoGBh6Qz3dT9yvknwdJxsipVX0V6ApQcO/s320/DSCF3128.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on John Verylongbigwords (E1 5a).</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja_Ayco06vyLYL3IwGdt2mzhSDPeGM4BKtqj0aY9NFqShpCn_P7yz0nPjDdf2RhH_vMwPA8k-DmlwQIB5WpdZeZPyzH16aSQ3_EjpjVioxuaIO1AdYrs_z6tSDeyMIXR6BHEycHPSHt5jt/s1600/DSCF3135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja_Ayco06vyLYL3IwGdt2mzhSDPeGM4BKtqj0aY9NFqShpCn_P7yz0nPjDdf2RhH_vMwPA8k-DmlwQIB5WpdZeZPyzH16aSQ3_EjpjVioxuaIO1AdYrs_z6tSDeyMIXR6BHEycHPSHt5jt/s320/DSCF3135.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on At the Cost of a Rope (E1 5b).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLdmgrRVTgRfI-pvUvUelRJItft5N0W1MCjbOELtZmGoaOj97NxdDwnLT43Ln0hrBOVbTHz1lttKJBGW1fEMcrF9DI6GzzS1gfrA7L_XOaZKakxwVseIdc18KNFtmYTFRNsJSgnpLFk6FN/s1600/DSCF3136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLdmgrRVTgRfI-pvUvUelRJItft5N0W1MCjbOELtZmGoaOj97NxdDwnLT43Ln0hrBOVbTHz1lttKJBGW1fEMcrF9DI6GzzS1gfrA7L_XOaZKakxwVseIdc18KNFtmYTFRNsJSgnpLFk6FN/s320/DSCF3136.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charlie squeezing under the fence. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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So to summarise: ‘Good climbing and good company often go
together: each is essential to the enjoyment of the other.’ Tom Patey.</div>
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<br /></div>
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In other news: </div>
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<br /></div>
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It has been the
Isle of Man TT this past two weeks. Records have fallen, especially those for
the TT Zero (the electric bike race) where an average lap time of over one
hundred mph has been broken, not only once but three times. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Look up Luke Tilly, captain of the British Youth climbing
team. He’s been crushing something crazy recently. Best wishes go to him. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
The <a href="http://coldsummits.blogspot.co.uk/?m=1">Cold Summits</a> team, part-sponsored by Alpkit, are in
Alaska routing. Good luck Will Hardy.
</div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-36853518259108205332012-06-08T22:47:00.000+01:002012-06-08T22:55:55.934+01:00'It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves'<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">‘It is
not the mountain we conquer but ourselves’, Sir Edmund Hillary</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">The
quote by Hillary is interesting as it can be widely applied to things in life.
The challenge often is defeating the doubt, the pain and the lack of
motivation. These aspects we develop in our minds, often they are greater than
the issue that is faced. Upsetting our personal status quo is difficult and
appears risky as most humans are risk-averse. Climbing and long distance
hill-walking force these aspects to the front of the mind, to succeed they must
be confronted head on. Humour helps. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">The last
couple of weeks have been busy; end of exams, friends that are free all the
time, and weather that is playing ball half the time, so it has been possible
to get in lots of climbing. The only reason this is actually getting typed
because Bangor is having some of the worst weather it has seen in a month or
two. The weather is grim today. So an update is in order. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">On
20/05/12 the BUMS visited the RAC Boulders. The collection of rhyolitic blocks
provide a range of problems, from simple slabs to the classic pump traverse (V4).
Warming up on the easy slab routes I then moved to slightly harder routes and
some mess-around eliminates. Stops, Lewis and others attempted to run up the
main slab, a few succeeded. Having seen an offwidth route at the crag above the
boulders Mikey and I grabbed a couple of pads. Some others followed hoping for
a laugh. The route is called The Lightning Bolt (HVS), from a distance it
certainly matches the description, a jagged split in the rock, ominous and
dangerous looking. At the base of the route we arranged a couple of pads and
Mikey opted to go first. Speedily lay backing raced up a few metres and then
threw himself into the crack proper. Then the traditional struggle in a full,
body-consuming offwidth began. A little higher up and the crack drops flat and
to the right, then it turns up again. Balancing precariously above the pads he
tackled the zig in the crack and raced to the top. My turn, mimicking Mikey
start, I laid back rapidly moving hands and feet whilst simultaneously trying
to work out when the point to turn and throw myself into the crack. Once in the
difficulties had only just started, as with all large offwidths they are not so
much about refined movements but more to do with little manoeuvres and
thrutching (a term used by climbers to describe the kind of progress is made
with a lot of effort and little height gained, typically used for offwidth
crack climbing). Once in the crack a dilemma is faced, you pull in right
shoulder first resulting in the body facing the wrong way, you need to turn
around. With shoulders free enough to move about ninety degrees I span so I was
looking out of the crack, only to notice that the rest of the group (that were
meant to be bouldering below) were sitting on the boulders looking up at me; half
stuck and grunting as if I were in a strong man competition. And then I said
it, with a half laugh, ‘Er, guys, I might be stuck’. No offers of help came,
just laughter and ridicule. Not wishing to be defeated by the rock I wriggled
upwards, turned fully round then faced pulling out of the crack to tackle the
zig in the rock. A scary position. I cleared some plants and moss from the
block I was about to pull onto, poorly aiming (most of it landed on my
spotters, sorry) and half belly flopped on to this block. A mad swing with my
right foot and I stood up. Quickly padding to the top, I had a momentary cheer,
turning around the group on the boulders all clapped. Thanks! A few problems
later we set off home. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKdkRHsjr4Q1NHs66lABRNQi0utiAlkhoJlCHpf15E2PP3oUTWJ-QrK3_mlkM7UdkaSKqch0FZB3x9oRVl1oSfxOS0exE0V0t1EuiKFwsaMjrf0AIFRRGcgT0aN4ltqqi6iBOInUFdSUv0/s1600/DSCF2944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKdkRHsjr4Q1NHs66lABRNQi0utiAlkhoJlCHpf15E2PP3oUTWJ-QrK3_mlkM7UdkaSKqch0FZB3x9oRVl1oSfxOS0exE0V0t1EuiKFwsaMjrf0AIFRRGcgT0aN4ltqqi6iBOInUFdSUv0/s320/DSCF2944.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On one of the problems.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw9HZAY66JQP07fOggwuSzwc1S0Z1JNasCRhXbWP0YAw0vmY6-rSYwNE8LlzV7ue5NRyEWv0NbPRQ1Uv5qkDfNDt3KFIuN_1plCqkWRc3dYCCeyM43_Fhe4Vcdryqb302SIUfmMgtFRI-J/s1600/DSCF2960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw9HZAY66JQP07fOggwuSzwc1S0Z1JNasCRhXbWP0YAw0vmY6-rSYwNE8LlzV7ue5NRyEWv0NbPRQ1Uv5qkDfNDt3KFIuN_1plCqkWRc3dYCCeyM43_Fhe4Vcdryqb302SIUfmMgtFRI-J/s320/DSCF2960.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mikey getting in the crack.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNxaJm7cOlAuqKy-2kef9F5pOXBwv9cl9eSieCqKbqnY4_Lh1UdXiwyR9_kWa_hD08MkxSygOnUYuRcBS_H-5GkSlTQSIaKYH3c04w91JWB6fD6swXrm5z-6vnlU0eMQgUuv3sRAHQ7WXd/s1600/DSCF2961.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNxaJm7cOlAuqKy-2kef9F5pOXBwv9cl9eSieCqKbqnY4_Lh1UdXiwyR9_kWa_hD08MkxSygOnUYuRcBS_H-5GkSlTQSIaKYH3c04w91JWB6fD6swXrm5z-6vnlU0eMQgUuv3sRAHQ7WXd/s320/DSCF2961.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Now I'm in what do I do?'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUU_Xqv1sg3owXlBJvCp4Wyp6VMq8_nUQoAyUw1EXZKjLjmE6rylLHiWMNiVt0f0aorDcESDeDrlIdTDx64FXLJfZo2fTKXteLLFcpyKrPmae-mc1DfnMXc4CtBqBXVbdO9bUTKv7QQ_qQ/s1600/DSCF2968.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUU_Xqv1sg3owXlBJvCp4Wyp6VMq8_nUQoAyUw1EXZKjLjmE6rylLHiWMNiVt0f0aorDcESDeDrlIdTDx64FXLJfZo2fTKXteLLFcpyKrPmae-mc1DfnMXc4CtBqBXVbdO9bUTKv7QQ_qQ/s320/DSCF2968.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hard work!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2o__084WePMPb1weICof4W_Dg_YD713Zg1ZZ_1OU1XYkF6IyTFOEKibb01ThDLmB7bQn1-MefVJYFrI7JKi9tJs15DgUKXx-4Kfb8uIVogIqS6ENeMGQD6iCkcMoDTveUMJwf6EId18hx/s1600/DSCF2980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2o__084WePMPb1weICof4W_Dg_YD713Zg1ZZ_1OU1XYkF6IyTFOEKibb01ThDLmB7bQn1-MefVJYFrI7JKi9tJs15DgUKXx-4Kfb8uIVogIqS6ENeMGQD6iCkcMoDTveUMJwf6EId18hx/s320/DSCF2980.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Er, guys, I might be stuck'.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc4DwPP_sHvRg50enCmo1fnLNW0YJmUdDd9YO3uibM8Xf34CjKUhvWMIKNCG8JIp7sMSDqeZLS8QWa5f2V9yklhJFbBMT_vSRQdfEFytglIcS3Xi0qE-zl5AAZbBttFMl9JDgxSqYpbt9c/s1600/DSCF3005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc4DwPP_sHvRg50enCmo1fnLNW0YJmUdDd9YO3uibM8Xf34CjKUhvWMIKNCG8JIp7sMSDqeZLS8QWa5f2V9yklhJFbBMT_vSRQdfEFytglIcS3Xi0qE-zl5AAZbBttFMl9JDgxSqYpbt9c/s320/DSCF3005.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Well, this isn't a marked problem, but I'll try to stay just in the scoop' (Probably V2/3).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiV43LQPNpwW1Q7fuTJv7c1FvPi3tAJ0rGNEB5Dhow0fYfyyTBGc_DD4jE-fF1BJFRXnTkTTKuw42ixljAqU7hhzwsevo2a_pUP9f0OesBUJFFDv30mEs7eJIoM-tYpnq1R52tJGho5MZs/s1600/DSCF3006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiV43LQPNpwW1Q7fuTJv7c1FvPi3tAJ0rGNEB5Dhow0fYfyyTBGc_DD4jE-fF1BJFRXnTkTTKuw42ixljAqU7hhzwsevo2a_pUP9f0OesBUJFFDv30mEs7eJIoM-tYpnq1R52tJGho5MZs/s320/DSCF3006.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BUMS at the Heights Hotel, Llanberis.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">A
planned trad day (21/05/12) with Pete, turned into a boulder session with Pete
and Jez at the Cromlech boulders. The Cromlech boulders are a cluster of rocks
in the Llanberis pass and (conveniently) right next to the road. After doing
some warm up routes including Brown’s Crack (V2, sit start), Pete suggested we
all tried Brown’s Mantel (V0+, but I think it is upgradeable, you can do it or
you can’t. No matter how well you climb it does not help on this problem). It
is a slightly angled block, about a metre and a half off the floor, with little
to grip onto. Grunting, wriggling and lots of laughter later I managed it. Pete
did as well. A great route and worth seeking out, best done in a large group so
ridicule can be made of everyone. We also did Scoop Lip (V4) and I worked a bit
more on The Edge Problem (V6, if including the sit start which is not too bad). </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7LgbLg-n7Sjx4zyRTOcCofkfCug_Jdy0fRikDcZiVf1NBmEQo8OCx7zRbWiQjnMGCnl9AKK7qRHSToXuLGj47YizldOYlwSJ389e77gfjAZGPZnj7zq68Vqo186OMTF3ZlEalfUdVcRLT/s1600/DSCF3008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7LgbLg-n7Sjx4zyRTOcCofkfCug_Jdy0fRikDcZiVf1NBmEQo8OCx7zRbWiQjnMGCnl9AKK7qRHSToXuLGj47YizldOYlwSJ389e77gfjAZGPZnj7zq68Vqo186OMTF3ZlEalfUdVcRLT/s320/DSCF3008.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pull.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOp7vYTb0QpexFFIsf1Pu_n9VfeR_MZfZ14Mn-UaETmXkpq9sHEkPXbJk8F3fUdhGVBjggCL18RULyCe6nXI9NWBaBW0SDG3CfeiOopw6CX6CF9WFdgFXd1aiUFZvkL40EHEduiR0oj9_C/s1600/DSCF3012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOp7vYTb0QpexFFIsf1Pu_n9VfeR_MZfZ14Mn-UaETmXkpq9sHEkPXbJk8F3fUdhGVBjggCL18RULyCe6nXI9NWBaBW0SDG3CfeiOopw6CX6CF9WFdgFXd1aiUFZvkL40EHEduiR0oj9_C/s320/DSCF3012.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete: Almost there...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfD9MEzsurzL35oyNMjO-3uJ1TxhUWUg5hkt1MJYXGNoD2iTtEFy0s3uej6uAOH3gcRcItVfnkJUWK5qOWk_xykfLftaowFUSp9sDsRvra4eyf6MN-HVgL73mfkZL83sWpFLKIxzsDrm1o/s1600/DSCF3017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfD9MEzsurzL35oyNMjO-3uJ1TxhUWUg5hkt1MJYXGNoD2iTtEFy0s3uej6uAOH3gcRcItVfnkJUWK5qOWk_xykfLftaowFUSp9sDsRvra4eyf6MN-HVgL73mfkZL83sWpFLKIxzsDrm1o/s320/DSCF3017.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pull even harder.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeyEQrgD_3aZUm40uWsdLGfRw7B8y2RuTnU1h3A01_Ad-kDN29Gmvw9Y7fheHqzVmWDme1jrndCbGsfUMCR3BxVcd8zsIC2I8sF2BBRodvcswBcQUHih1Q6XwflcepCyBTTZP53pZd7SMN/s1600/DSCF3020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeyEQrgD_3aZUm40uWsdLGfRw7B8y2RuTnU1h3A01_Ad-kDN29Gmvw9Y7fheHqzVmWDme1jrndCbGsfUMCR3BxVcd8zsIC2I8sF2BBRodvcswBcQUHih1Q6XwflcepCyBTTZP53pZd7SMN/s320/DSCF3020.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jez having a go.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZzi1xVzX-qp-RaY10S9v3xuBWN7XXGc2Eqxq7rClASET8UE_jO6mpE78D62cE5R3tSpAR54hKxJfcWEkphQaJR0rIlT5qnl5BTzZ0GHXGvCH7otcA2OnBJNOBgfFm0SMJoPgGXKOzGfrq/s1600/DSCF3023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZzi1xVzX-qp-RaY10S9v3xuBWN7XXGc2Eqxq7rClASET8UE_jO6mpE78D62cE5R3tSpAR54hKxJfcWEkphQaJR0rIlT5qnl5BTzZ0GHXGvCH7otcA2OnBJNOBgfFm0SMJoPgGXKOzGfrq/s320/DSCF3023.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And a bit higher up.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<object class="BLOG_video_class" contentid="UPLOADING" height="266" id="BLOG_video-UPLOADING-0" width="320"></object><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">The
Tuesday (22/05/12) was a BUMS trip to Castle Inn Quarry, a great place with a
range of grades and literally no walk in (as the tarmac stops at the base of
the main cliff. Pairing off with Libby we jumped on some sport routes. Then we
did the route I had come to do, Pioneer Cracks (E1 5b). Racked up and ready to
go I pulled on. The first half of the route is quite gentle, with solid holds
and jams. A quick shake-out before the overhang and clustering some gear meant
I was ready. The steep section started, the fore-arm pump kicked in and the
race to the top began. Some fiddly gear near the top made the route just that
little bit harder. Pulling over the top I wooped and set up a belay. Libby struggled
valiantly up the route, a good effort for someone who has only seconded one E1
before. I also had a shot on Crosswinds (F6c+) and after several attempts I
reached the top, one to come back to and get clean. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6CQRzj_zgZGvXP8T7aj3NUMJ6zf25FI78aJZyiq4hSIQGahoAB0jQsaUXhqllWGYFBgJbRLoYTjb4jKGz8gVp81LZXFEqg5LL9UlXUsiNQgjawsHgZhgXkWidnIaATW8PCO6z2JeJ4F6I/s1600/579999_443121075699692_100000054102130_1713890_1517590098_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6CQRzj_zgZGvXP8T7aj3NUMJ6zf25FI78aJZyiq4hSIQGahoAB0jQsaUXhqllWGYFBgJbRLoYTjb4jKGz8gVp81LZXFEqg5LL9UlXUsiNQgjawsHgZhgXkWidnIaATW8PCO6z2JeJ4F6I/s320/579999_443121075699692_100000054102130_1713890_1517590098_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me setting off on Pioneer Cracks (E1 5b, in red) and Henry working As You Like It (F6b+, in blue).
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">© Thea Eldred.</span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"> After a
late start, via Pete’s Eats and a car boot sale of climbing gear, the Sunday
(27/05/12) turned into a great day. After a quick warm up and a couple of
attempts on the Edge Problem, I wanted to get some trad climbing in. Trying to
work out where and which routes would work best as a three, as I was with Bede
and Charlie, we settled for Clogwyn y Grochan. Sights set on a couple of
routes, we saw that Wind (HVS 5b) was free. Knowing that it is one of the
classics of the crag I was keen for the onsight, with Charlie and Bede wanting
an introduction to the rock type. Wind follows an obvious vertical crack line. Placing
a large cam near the start of the route I bashed on. The hot weather was not
helping progress, repeated chalking up made it easier as my hands were sweating
like mad. The climbing is fairly steady with a great hand sized pinch about
half way up. Pulling through the crux moves felt ace. Once the difficulties were
over I raced to the top. Charlie, who is rapidly improving her trad grade
pulled the rope through and came up on my gear. Bede seconded up. After three
fairly rapid abseils we were done. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhov-5W10a2jEig4sATPv8MRHwsqlYy_ARtGPUi4OPAr0fXzPSI6aVaFcssEFjtJ2VFHglunN2SoHZOYm47daPNHgKpP4XEYvzpRIxl19kjo63SdguRdvolZeXV5VfhObySLsxaDO_XzYOa/s1600/DSCF3072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhov-5W10a2jEig4sATPv8MRHwsqlYy_ARtGPUi4OPAr0fXzPSI6aVaFcssEFjtJ2VFHglunN2SoHZOYm47daPNHgKpP4XEYvzpRIxl19kjo63SdguRdvolZeXV5VfhObySLsxaDO_XzYOa/s320/DSCF3072.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On Wind (HVS 5b)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">The new
parts for the motorbike have arrived, so I’m able to drive it home. However
really it could do with a new gear-box to front sprocket transmission shaft,
which means taking the gear box apart, which in turn means taking the engine
out (and to do that the fuel tank has to come out and the engine disconnected
from everything). It is going to be a mucky job! A learning experience. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">So get
out there and conquer your own mountains. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Videos:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=_dcJ3nR3dDU">The Frumious Bandersnatch (Nick Bullock on an E7 at Rhoscolyn)</a> <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=_dcJ3nR3dDU"></a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://vimeo.com/42505226"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Extinction (Tim Emmett, E8 6b at Gogarth North Stack)</span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><a href="http://vimeo.com/34760326">Bouldering in Virgin Gorda</a> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://vimeo.com/42632868"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Summits of my Life Trailer</span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-50071479601522672882012-05-17T19:06:00.000+01:002012-05-17T19:10:57.128+01:00It could be worse...<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">There
must be one of those laws out there, like Murphy’s and Godwin’s, which is when
a deadline approaches something will break, stop working or just give up. This
has just happened with my bike. With less than a month to go till I travel
home, the front sprocket has sheared. I was heading back from Llanddulas Cave
on Sunday (13/05/12), just got on the A55 accelerated to seventy mph and then
suddenly no drive, quickly I swung on to the hard shoulder. I looked down and
saw the damage caused. The highways officers that stopped and helped push my
bike up the on ramp at Conwy were of real help. Thanks go to them. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFP7TqYaal4TwsHBDsBzx25JIoj3cZR71yFjalHsjPuBMPOeMluzF_LoLZOOoPKowkDb4HMOc3Yw_bD7mPXK37muvM93Toyg1ME7UUFRM6wqvMFpzD5vZXhDJr9Ona7mFRwdHN1QdTXaCM/s1600/DSCF2909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFP7TqYaal4TwsHBDsBzx25JIoj3cZR71yFjalHsjPuBMPOeMluzF_LoLZOOoPKowkDb4HMOc3Yw_bD7mPXK37muvM93Toyg1ME7UUFRM6wqvMFpzD5vZXhDJr9Ona7mFRwdHN1QdTXaCM/s320/DSCF2909.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Damage caused to the front sprocket cover. This is what I saw upon stopping. Did not look promising.(Gear leaver removed)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGKY0XpQX14_R4D3-hg1Iq9xC-gl7Q4lqHZC4_gvu76CsMQz9UpKBVafoyoZ4EiqGS7V0K3xRU1fMZcltp6XsayVN2i9DB06SrMWwPDwUfkTqu_Q_hP3doI6lQdgLLbrmWLb745xEDPAyg/s1600/DSCF2912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGKY0XpQX14_R4D3-hg1Iq9xC-gl7Q4lqHZC4_gvu76CsMQz9UpKBVafoyoZ4EiqGS7V0K3xRU1fMZcltp6XsayVN2i9DB06SrMWwPDwUfkTqu_Q_hP3doI6lQdgLLbrmWLb745xEDPAyg/s320/DSCF2912.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The removed front sprocket and retainer. Notice the mangled teeth. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihO4bdf7Da93m23DFpe_fvuNBj1J2QNHodPPuEpFnh_1yxd4R2gOq_P0-LzTEXWA69oMRu15JzTYjz5mSbN6KZKocE9Cg1xb_A5aR_tLSn3OwdK8tr7pegQoCDHQLvqHEF5mGM0NuJBKMf/s1600/DSCF2916.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihO4bdf7Da93m23DFpe_fvuNBj1J2QNHodPPuEpFnh_1yxd4R2gOq_P0-LzTEXWA69oMRu15JzTYjz5mSbN6KZKocE9Cg1xb_A5aR_tLSn3OwdK8tr7pegQoCDHQLvqHEF5mGM0NuJBKMf/s320/DSCF2916.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wear on the drive shaft.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">On
Monday I looked at the damage and now I’m waiting on new parts. I’ll be taking
the engine block out and replacing the drive shaft when I get home. A messy job
since the drive shaft sits inside the gear box which is full of oil. A
combination of factors appear to have caused the damage, long journeys at high
speed, age of the parts and a slightly tight chain, all of which really come
down to one cause poor maintenance. Woops. So a point to learn from, when
checking your chain tension also have a
quick check of the front sprocket and see if it has any free play around the
drive shaft. Having not done this I’ve paid for it. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">However,
it could have been worse. At least it did not do the opposite and lock the rear
wheel up, a skid at seventy would have made a real mess of me. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Climbing
has been great recently, a direct opposite to the bike. Saturday (12/05/12) I
went with Dale to Wen Zawn, Gogarth, to do Britomartis (HVS 4c). Abseil rope
set up, we set off down to the belay ledge. Once on the ledge we had to wait
twenty minutes or so for a pair of climbers (who had just met at the Climber’s
Club meet that was happening over the weekend) to finish the first pitch of
Spider Wall (E1 5a). Dale was wanting to try an lead his first HVS but baled (without
shame as the first pitch was cold, wet and in the shade) and quickly came back
to the belay. A swift change over with the gear and I set off. Having previously
led the route I got on and got going. The route follows a rising crack line,
with jug-like holds for the hands and other quartzite lumps for the feet. It is
fairly pumpy and the gear is regular, but it just keeps going with the pump
setting in. Reaching the belay stance is a relief. I threw a loop of rope and a
sling over the two flakes at the stance, set the hanging belay up and placed
Dale on the belay. On the second he made good progress. On reaching the belay
we switched over the gear. I set off (mainly because last time I did
Britomartis, I’d miss read the route and finished up Toiler of the Sea (E2 5b)
not something I wanted Dale to experience) and quickly reached the top. A great
section of the route, short and a complete contrast to the first pitch, sparse
gear and airy moves. Dale came up and reached the belay ledge thrilled to have
done such a cool route. Dale also did Cursing (VS 4c) at Holyhead Mountain in
the afternoon. A solid lead that he had wanted to do for some time. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZv7yfg5888ulCb7O0v7r-4N_o-aWrHq0ScmC7klAZIJRY-UlPvvKde0379wbRsU2dkpXUpXYcJHShS9tM-zRgfVHpTiyPTr39q-c8B6q2d2WRUKH-E9JxiV3__eNRnxIIIqAUCjJ-shjf/s1600/DSCF2865.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZv7yfg5888ulCb7O0v7r-4N_o-aWrHq0ScmC7klAZIJRY-UlPvvKde0379wbRsU2dkpXUpXYcJHShS9tM-zRgfVHpTiyPTr39q-c8B6q2d2WRUKH-E9JxiV3__eNRnxIIIqAUCjJ-shjf/s320/DSCF2865.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down the line of the first pitch of Britomartis, sea below. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiozHfKQnarpN-Iu9oGqA94jxmT-Q8vxxhdrwscMHyHEoOZ8iV3rNZ3Fnxm19PvdaHI2K0qNFr7lCYavx20TijTyw-hTYsdZcD2_gQb71R6ezt-12kyBv8Gluh5TGCyAjnRsOcwv9GTww7C/s1600/DSCF2869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiozHfKQnarpN-Iu9oGqA94jxmT-Q8vxxhdrwscMHyHEoOZ8iV3rNZ3Fnxm19PvdaHI2K0qNFr7lCYavx20TijTyw-hTYsdZcD2_gQb71R6ezt-12kyBv8Gluh5TGCyAjnRsOcwv9GTww7C/s320/DSCF2869.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dale reaching the belay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVrSpDQ_uu7rF4L6-tOYRn86TFV6cva9CkKx4aogD4vgZKObiNXQDNrx-xO0Eb_RMDM08CSQhD8gUq38bA5hIi0zKS5k_snwDu43IDS7CU2rS2i_qs2pLjtCpDMoOXcFOpdphl2nYs7bRT/s1600/DSCF2870.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVrSpDQ_uu7rF4L6-tOYRn86TFV6cva9CkKx4aogD4vgZKObiNXQDNrx-xO0Eb_RMDM08CSQhD8gUq38bA5hIi0zKS5k_snwDu43IDS7CU2rS2i_qs2pLjtCpDMoOXcFOpdphl2nYs7bRT/s320/DSCF2870.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the belay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFfzC-bt6ZoNKOEBdNP1QBK7duaA0dbs6RuUG5v3BddTbsF-AprHz5zZIr-3pMBCXXT34wh9rAfgGRKyJu4zk75mP8f-n7qW_E9b961_JAk98u9-TMfjR5avWzYcNF7FqVjObNZRuz2Sk_/s1600/DSCF2877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFfzC-bt6ZoNKOEBdNP1QBK7duaA0dbs6RuUG5v3BddTbsF-AprHz5zZIr-3pMBCXXT34wh9rAfgGRKyJu4zk75mP8f-n7qW_E9b961_JAk98u9-TMfjR5avWzYcNF7FqVjObNZRuz2Sk_/s320/DSCF2877.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dale tackling the second pitch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYcl-0JfOVX3ntufydexdQyOy_7PpSq02lzNNIx9aHGxpi8ORrpQEetVmYsvY5d2ooA48g-DBGuYN48X7-Ea9S5hHb_NQjWz1dqgNIeiOExSq4-WF2J7X7WnSzpGcpTqDUeHvAziN7I2w0/s1600/DSCF2881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYcl-0JfOVX3ntufydexdQyOy_7PpSq02lzNNIx9aHGxpi8ORrpQEetVmYsvY5d2ooA48g-DBGuYN48X7-Ea9S5hHb_NQjWz1dqgNIeiOExSq4-WF2J7X7WnSzpGcpTqDUeHvAziN7I2w0/s320/DSCF2881.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dale on the Cursing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">The next
day had a slow start as Dylan had stayed overnight, we set off to Llanddulas Cave
and met the BUMS there. Warming up on Spider Mite (F6b) was great but a brutal
way of waking up the muscles. It just kept going, clip after clip a great
route. After a break I attempted Pearl from the Shell (F6c+), falling at each
clip, missing holds and pumping out far too quickly. That route and some others
have caused me to realise that I’m spending too long on the bouldering wall and
not training my stamina. It is funny how you can become focused on certain
small aspects and forget the whole picture. Before leaving I did Afterglow
(F6b) with Thea, a funky run with a good run out. Next I did Grog and the
Donkey (F6b+), I almost had it, then a foothold broke. I went flying. A quick
breather, I pulled back on and got to the top. The crux moves were good fun and
I recommend the route.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinO9ACG0gPAUy016cXRAr4Tfid-pso5HMqEDqc7XmaI483jbDnTeyi9RQNb7rQrMFsQy_65aU2LAZigLtanZbAMk-32QDWR_rXKJsd5-OoKzMK9nUOOiaWqkiurVvrha-SW2S-_nSL-DXP/s1600/DSCF2900.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinO9ACG0gPAUy016cXRAr4Tfid-pso5HMqEDqc7XmaI483jbDnTeyi9RQNb7rQrMFsQy_65aU2LAZigLtanZbAMk-32QDWR_rXKJsd5-OoKzMK9nUOOiaWqkiurVvrha-SW2S-_nSL-DXP/s320/DSCF2900.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Grog and the Donkey.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Wednesday
(16/05/12) I went with Chris to Clogwyn y Grochan, with no real set plans but
an inkling that we might attempt Hangover (E1 5b). Racked up and ready to go I
set off on what I thought was Phantom Rib (VS 4c), at the first major ledge I
checked the guidebook (stashed down the front of my jacket, a great place to
store the guide on a multi-pitch) I realised I was about ten metres to the
right of the route I was meant to be on. I was actually on Spectre (HVS 5a)
which quickly explained the difficulty (4c rather than 4a), the line followed a
difficult start to a more continuous crack line which involves a full foot jam
near the top. Chris took pitch two, less technically difficult but more run
out. It follows a vertical crack and then stepping left from under the roof.
The last pitch was mine, a complete fight and of unexpected difficulty. Stepping
up I placed a pair of offsets, and tried to pull myself into the shoulder width
crack. And I failed, pumped out, confused and fearing that I would hit Chris by
peeling out of the crack I eventually sat on the gear. A real shame. Reassessing
the moves I pulled back on, threw my shoulders into the crack, turned sideways (catching
my helmet on the rock at both sides) and wriggled further in. Precariously
balanced in the crack, I fought to bring my foot in and then it was over. Cam
placed and I pulled round and topped out. Chris managed first time on the
second. Good effort. Instead of finishing up Nea, we abbed off, the best of it
over (and we wanted to get more routes in). </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNbqL9jf5-mu5bviGixIC6Keh4NHw8PCiypdKp7a-4L-BADF0nJZnlhX4iFhjwaZ4m0wW1YWPv4Pi-ywvwkXXfK_R99GJhyphenhyphenrW_zq9LTXjxaAgNoX6wUtn95_1wsN-erLEv_HZ-p1qKzj2L/s1600/DSCF2920.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNbqL9jf5-mu5bviGixIC6Keh4NHw8PCiypdKp7a-4L-BADF0nJZnlhX4iFhjwaZ4m0wW1YWPv4Pi-ywvwkXXfK_R99GJhyphenhyphenrW_zq9LTXjxaAgNoX6wUtn95_1wsN-erLEv_HZ-p1qKzj2L/s320/DSCF2920.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris tackling pitch two on Spectre.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3iYrqUzk2sMvy8xZC1_q5aBtmiH1wLX5GYqLs9J2e3rEwI7cizoasJU-SQZXF0nlhiZRMWwSDBEzZOEQabay0h94txgAu3Bb9aKF7vmsjTT-gEHOofJl8P6sMIamqcl1Bs7N46_BEbA1L/s1600/DSCF2922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3iYrqUzk2sMvy8xZC1_q5aBtmiH1wLX5GYqLs9J2e3rEwI7cizoasJU-SQZXF0nlhiZRMWwSDBEzZOEQabay0h94txgAu3Bb9aKF7vmsjTT-gEHOofJl8P6sMIamqcl1Bs7N46_BEbA1L/s320/DSCF2922.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris coming up pitch three post-crack manoeuvres.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">After a
lunch stop, we re-racked and looked up Hangover. Making sure we were on the
right route, Chris set off. The route starts with a leap, quite scary with no
gear. He made progress up the corner, with the crack at its back running with
water. Pulling over the top he had a sign of relief and set up the belay.
Climbing to meet Chris was interesting as I’m a few inches shorter and the jump
at the start was difficult. Swapping over at the belay I was slightly nervous
as I really wanted the onsight and after failing on the previous route things
did not seem promising. Ready to go I set off, I committed to an airy step to
the right and then stuck my hand into the vertical crack line, placed a cam and
got going. Powering upwards I reached the next ledge. A complex step left off
the ledge and a continued push upwards resulted in topping out. Chris loved the
route on the second. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxzZkIv27u_bGWsWDX-KPIHSiyTKp30wfdvRW1-vao5UPcDxFtjQEVmnFNKOTf0S6jdlD5T66Tq5YxPgyQNtC0Ik0mKmHRWNpRlEYo7u2Zk96LlJy_TnFhfFRrxy9erjQOuKw347SVMuZh/s1600/DSCF2926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxzZkIv27u_bGWsWDX-KPIHSiyTKp30wfdvRW1-vao5UPcDxFtjQEVmnFNKOTf0S6jdlD5T66Tq5YxPgyQNtC0Ik0mKmHRWNpRlEYo7u2Zk96LlJy_TnFhfFRrxy9erjQOuKw347SVMuZh/s320/DSCF2926.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris on the first pitch of Hangover. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikSuzS-vKHnSgpvZnTDbnzcHkqSrNS9COSto2euIeqn_t1qs5D8sSf9zxW_u1bVLKFIy0ip9RK9AtflCsS_yUjRRusDp0PHKmiRcbtU6rHKxxrdxm9-nOdM4MIKLQt19ZvnVNjAqy2qNd4/s1600/DSCF2927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikSuzS-vKHnSgpvZnTDbnzcHkqSrNS9COSto2euIeqn_t1qs5D8sSf9zxW_u1bVLKFIy0ip9RK9AtflCsS_yUjRRusDp0PHKmiRcbtU6rHKxxrdxm9-nOdM4MIKLQt19ZvnVNjAqy2qNd4/s320/DSCF2927.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down at the belay from halfway on pitch two.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiVVZJCL_It0_lvRvG-K1LUFepMvLLZNhtRdymIfZ4vVH7j3DdB3EOOf7prWJlLFf_3rgT5KtRUmASsL-LYtiJ1VQeTPKTdOaHVZakXQCEwDwGo5Jw8DUnBLhy7jYVS9WzCSMVLkmR5aMz/s1600/DSCF2929.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiVVZJCL_It0_lvRvG-K1LUFepMvLLZNhtRdymIfZ4vVH7j3DdB3EOOf7prWJlLFf_3rgT5KtRUmASsL-LYtiJ1VQeTPKTdOaHVZakXQCEwDwGo5Jw8DUnBLhy7jYVS9WzCSMVLkmR5aMz/s320/DSCF2929.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The second half of pitch two.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEE8MfDBgnI4adjVWwRzKgpNfR-trzINAeu1LVLhbz6b41uDGnR4fHFBB0I3WwO5eM-ZdrilCjI5g7nomL_zfdKmYxhnM4mt6dpmrRrN3tclgbrAAH2hYaoeupsSS2Hvjb1VIwhq60ILwq/s1600/DSCF2933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEE8MfDBgnI4adjVWwRzKgpNfR-trzINAeu1LVLhbz6b41uDGnR4fHFBB0I3WwO5eM-ZdrilCjI5g7nomL_zfdKmYxhnM4mt6dpmrRrN3tclgbrAAH2hYaoeupsSS2Hvjb1VIwhq60ILwq/s320/DSCF2933.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to abseil off the top.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmyZGHL7B7iC6RsGJiwgR48CqE-jPHoivEJTwnH5hvJlEiOUGnipehPmwDZzPmoWHWh0g7QNrBb3Y-1xBkGR3NUWUJLHNxrDIwWg5GnaBqhHnNomQrHwUGsjYmhL3-hfP8fi4tVeCXFvka/s1600/DSCF2938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmyZGHL7B7iC6RsGJiwgR48CqE-jPHoivEJTwnH5hvJlEiOUGnipehPmwDZzPmoWHWh0g7QNrBb3Y-1xBkGR3NUWUJLHNxrDIwWg5GnaBqhHnNomQrHwUGsjYmhL3-hfP8fi4tVeCXFvka/s320/DSCF2938.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="center"><td class="tr-caption">Us and the Grochan. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">We then had to catch the bus back to Llanberis (no motorbike is a real pain), got a quick beer at the Heights Hotel Pub, then another bus to Bangor. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">So life
could be worse… </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Some
links:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><a href="http://vimeo.com/41916913">Barnes Way Gp (Motorcross Race)</a> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><a href="http://www.visordown.com/">Visor Down (Motor biking website)</a> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dso5wlGQGM">The Thing (Ice climbing in NZ, I’m so looking forward to moving)</a> <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dso5wlGQGM"></a>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-91187549529301221932012-05-11T13:52:00.000+01:002012-05-11T14:06:56.880+01:00Swing Life Away<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Last
Friday (04.05.2012) came round far too quick. A week dominated by essay
writing, all done and finished by 17.00. A relief. But then I had to manically
pack and load the bike, the Peak District was calling. What had happened was I
had organised a post-essay, pre-exams BUMS peak trip and I thought that I would
have finished on the Thursday when planning, but as the Robert Burns’ poem goes ‘The best
laid schemes o’ mice an’ men / Gang aft agley’ (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">To a Mouse</i>). With a rather laden bike and a pillion I met the rest
of the BUMS at the SU and we set off. Three hours and a bit later we arrived at
my house (where we were staying for the weekend). It was cold and past midnight. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK1yoD6rK2T-Ax0Qt_YfHE8DUrFT72julDJ-boYmi5qvOZRIi3mmZYFgR6NxKEuIDE15bnOQ6_fZ-jF01PmO1-DrvEZlkToJ63DN3MgXWByoF9rFsM33G5SP4eMF40XxzvtG7-JIHTcam8/s1600/DSCF2762.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK1yoD6rK2T-Ax0Qt_YfHE8DUrFT72julDJ-boYmi5qvOZRIi3mmZYFgR6NxKEuIDE15bnOQ6_fZ-jF01PmO1-DrvEZlkToJ63DN3MgXWByoF9rFsM33G5SP4eMF40XxzvtG7-JIHTcam8/s320/DSCF2762.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think I could fit some more kit on somewhere.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">On the
Saturday morning, after lots of cups of tea and scrambled eggs, we headed out
to Black Rocks. Warming up on the Railway Boulders provided an interesting
introduction to gritstone slabs and friction. Tentative steps were made up
Route 1 (HVS 4c) and Route 2 (VS 5a) (both boulder problems despite the trad
grade). The Island of Sodor (HVS 5c) involves a series of steps on basically
nothing but rough sandpaper. Good fun and a steep learning curve for those who
had not been on the grit before. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5brEdaZvxQy5YhuD_cABbzN2u4uXmMV-qaP0LIHzo74ORBPgAmJIVgCEBY3uUjqeKuO7elU3-qAwgOlafGrlqJ-ZiRCWyMcnyYz7hNzJhq9SzHzujTv8f41PMYQiF7LH90cdtA5Ao28Me/s1600/DSCF2763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5brEdaZvxQy5YhuD_cABbzN2u4uXmMV-qaP0LIHzo74ORBPgAmJIVgCEBY3uUjqeKuO7elU3-qAwgOlafGrlqJ-ZiRCWyMcnyYz7hNzJhq9SzHzujTv8f41PMYQiF7LH90cdtA5Ao28Me/s320/DSCF2763.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lewis on Island of Sondor.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyDc5i97o-QNRNbCzs4pC_FpEk1J28d5ZYY9vSo9Z1ruXRJxERhdG5s-I-MivI494cUM3BDWQpmjAw_t78pBlL9uJ3W2HC3AcmVPLPr410cyYsvL9zK8McDH7MnRAZnjHRQylhsyKTII4z/s1600/DSCF2767.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyDc5i97o-QNRNbCzs4pC_FpEk1J28d5ZYY9vSo9Z1ruXRJxERhdG5s-I-MivI494cUM3BDWQpmjAw_t78pBlL9uJ3W2HC3AcmVPLPr410cyYsvL9zK8McDH7MnRAZnjHRQylhsyKTII4z/s320/DSCF2767.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dylan playing on a link up.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF3xS59SxNjBMjnzIMmZIjey1TrItLDkJACpWfDx1hPQrgY3MgVpjlHEA9eMsZ_TV2da6dCmY_bCkNL7cVqLniT05zRzs9GVLTGGvraMBcXwKRfzTm7b3UcHg65q5vCN6_WDTzQ3Y82a5L/s1600/DSCF2773.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF3xS59SxNjBMjnzIMmZIjey1TrItLDkJACpWfDx1hPQrgY3MgVpjlHEA9eMsZ_TV2da6dCmY_bCkNL7cVqLniT05zRzs9GVLTGGvraMBcXwKRfzTm7b3UcHg65q5vCN6_WDTzQ3Y82a5L/s320/DSCF2773.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris on Route 2 and Ellie on Route 1.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">We moved
up to the main cliffs. James and Jordan went round to the front, doing Central
Buttress (HVD 3c) and other easy classics. Lewis and Ellie started on Birch
Tree Wall (VS 5a), a safe but thrutchy route, with a great balancing traverse
section towards the end of the route. I started on Birch Tree Wall Variations
(HVS 5a) a harder version of the above. Hand jams and delicate footwork were
required in order to get up to the start of the traverse. You get your feet in
the break and gentle steps to the left then make a controlled lunge for the
birch tree that protrudes from the crack (the cause of the route’s name). If
you go under the tree you can wrap a leg round it and get a hands free rest.
Once unravelled from around the tree you get back in the groove and make
progress to the end of the route. Dylan and Chris follow up on the second, both
making easy work of the route. Next Chris made a quick ascent of Birch Tree
Wall. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD1GM6dT7oruFwDKn0EqCWXHmwdt6pwzPjgXU11rcpbu2V4grfeM31B1ZOp8bdh7cL8yqbJpZ0ZwD0XId9Nwt7A-Mi7EIEEnFw9wzUi_7P-9cQYqwA94Tn4Bgc9A_Ovem6w4Sy-Zf07Iny/s1600/DSCF2775.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD1GM6dT7oruFwDKn0EqCWXHmwdt6pwzPjgXU11rcpbu2V4grfeM31B1ZOp8bdh7cL8yqbJpZ0ZwD0XId9Nwt7A-Mi7EIEEnFw9wzUi_7P-9cQYqwA94Tn4Bgc9A_Ovem6w4Sy-Zf07Iny/s320/DSCF2775.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me (wrapped around the tree) on Birch Tree Wall Variations (when being photographed make sure your helmet is on sideways).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOvLxJmDLAwKCHgIxmTZ3EuPyXKzH3Qlns8eUNoiL5kv09H_ow3HONUe2VmObR6UdypI4nD6VPETzsm8Hjigr_BO0gMdMeeDsa2J754Dib2iyilqzRSmmgTT_nBLNwN-Vu5HgRNXpjfS6/s1600/DSCF2782.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOvLxJmDLAwKCHgIxmTZ3EuPyXKzH3Qlns8eUNoiL5kv09H_ow3HONUe2VmObR6UdypI4nD6VPETzsm8Hjigr_BO0gMdMeeDsa2J754Dib2iyilqzRSmmgTT_nBLNwN-Vu5HgRNXpjfS6/s320/DSCF2782.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris (post-crux) on Birch Tree Wall.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Lewis
and Dylan went off to work some hard routes and possibly attempt The Angel’s
Share (E8 7a). They managed to get up Golden Days (E3 6a), a difficult route
that is sometimes done as a highball. An impressive lead, resulting in shredded
fingers and several whippers.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">They
dropped a top rope down The Angel's Share and quickly backed off, Jonny
Dawes (who did the first assent) hats off to you it looks so hard.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"> I went with Chris round the front, he lead up
Stonnis Crack (HS 4b). A quick and fast lesson in jamming. He did a great job,
using his six foot plus frame to his advantage. Watching James try on the
second to get up without jamming was funny, he quickly changed tactics as
progress was severely limited. I led up the route next and being that bit
shorter found a couple of the move tricky. There is a great kneebar near the
top of the route, but only great until you try and move. As normal at Black
Rocks thrutching was called upon to make any progress. Jordan made a successful
second, although he struggled to smear with his hard bouldering shoes. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChACP97JDWz3lz-sfdDNcuJ9KzR7SXinWJewae1pzZ94-vaKzZjTW6Gvvu7a5gz40CGDzjfgOtGLCGHCnzvJzZt7OSAnxaqwHrOJXc6vvfAsXBLmZmjoz3C5DoiWFsYt-u2ML_Aaeni60/s1600/DSCF2785.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChACP97JDWz3lz-sfdDNcuJ9KzR7SXinWJewae1pzZ94-vaKzZjTW6Gvvu7a5gz40CGDzjfgOtGLCGHCnzvJzZt7OSAnxaqwHrOJXc6vvfAsXBLmZmjoz3C5DoiWFsYt-u2ML_Aaeni60/s320/DSCF2785.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">James on Stonnis Crack.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Next
route up was Sand Buttress (VS 4c) a complete sand bag of a route. Every time I
visit Black Rocks I try to get on this route as I find it is a real test piece
for the grade. I can honestly say I’ve done easier and less scary E1’s. Getting
up the first crack is all ok, some good hand jams and great placements for the
feet. Then you place a big cam in the
horizontal break and then move like one-o across to the left. In a precariously
balanced position place a wire and make progress up the vertical crack. Watch
out for rope drag. Once at the top feel the relief that you made it. I love the
route, the fear just makes me feel alive. Chris seconded up and agreed, it is
very hard for the grade. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7MTBBcNDmxi2yL7SVHXjIGde02hCnuTNJ9iip9zmpjjMElL1zmz18e0kszRBlnlLLQ-rmNRpYBd1UCD9U6u_gfaqxuLyrx0Sfb6hjBxUNg9yc-a1sToplIKaYpy2y2XhAd-BvGjAZsCv7/s1600/522296_768473947733_284204405_7556902_1171143309_n+jordans..jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7MTBBcNDmxi2yL7SVHXjIGde02hCnuTNJ9iip9zmpjjMElL1zmz18e0kszRBlnlLLQ-rmNRpYBd1UCD9U6u_gfaqxuLyrx0Sfb6hjBxUNg9yc-a1sToplIKaYpy2y2XhAd-BvGjAZsCv7/s320/522296_768473947733_284204405_7556902_1171143309_n+jordans..jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Sand Buttress. <br />
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Photo by Jordan Senior<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"> ©.</span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">We
called it a day, went home and started on the beers. Shattered, knuckles grazed
and suitably humbled by the gritstone we had a great evening in the pub and
then around the fire. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Sunday
we had another large breakfast and headed out to Birchen Edge. Traffic was bad,
bank holiday and Chatsworth house on the route made for a long journey. (Why do
people like looking round rich family houses from eighteenth and nineteenth
century? All that pointless wealth, maybe if they shared some of it the current
depression might be eased.) The sun was out and the weather was brilliant. Time
to get a load of routes done. We all started off doing a series of solos on
easy, short routes. It was a really laid back atmosphere and we all got loads
of routes done. Dylan and Lewis looking for something hard went off and
attempted Midshipman/Plain Sailing (E2 6a). Henry joined them later. The route
spat them all off on the upper crux moves. An impressive effort by all. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisD-fRS0O9VSE35NZ_6zOH4wkEoNrAsCBXVrvjzIx7FhdARUMv489cScgcNhZhXJ12oFwtvtvioavn6PtlrzjxYPiJad2vaYmDL3CTcmxuKCT5plENRhHemf82_itGGdZ_AunWrEag8g_Q/s1600/562597_768472221193_284204405_7556880_66822167_n+jordans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisD-fRS0O9VSE35NZ_6zOH4wkEoNrAsCBXVrvjzIx7FhdARUMv489cScgcNhZhXJ12oFwtvtvioavn6PtlrzjxYPiJad2vaYmDL3CTcmxuKCT5plENRhHemf82_itGGdZ_AunWrEag8g_Q/s320/562597_768472221193_284204405_7556880_66822167_n+jordans.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lewis on Midshipman/Plain Sailing. Photo by Jordan Senior<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"> ©.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3KbEfoFTX4SaCw2Z0xZvpLxHGGsRB8hfbeNcmHCO6Vs0c8PbO0vlcquijRSeX7UdjGpqpI1skd2vjwlvqURsWXlGlOGELTt9fe6aqky-6OXh5TTYru1oVKsNupL_o5x5QVvxXKqHHZKzG/s1600/303443_768474057513_284204405_7556903_858676008_n+jordans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3KbEfoFTX4SaCw2Z0xZvpLxHGGsRB8hfbeNcmHCO6Vs0c8PbO0vlcquijRSeX7UdjGpqpI1skd2vjwlvqURsWXlGlOGELTt9fe6aqky-6OXh5TTYru1oVKsNupL_o5x5QVvxXKqHHZKzG/s320/303443_768474057513_284204405_7556903_858676008_n+jordans.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then off. Photo by Jordan Senior<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"> ©.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Ellie,
Jordan, James and I took the bouldering pads to tackle Dane’s Delight (V0 5a)
and several other routes in the same area. Typical gritstone bouldering, friction
and how you use it makes all the difference. The day at Black Rocks the day
before was highly useful. I soloed Topsail (VS 4c) it has a tricky crux move
with a set of moves from out of the roof. Well deserving of three stars. That
feeling of complete control with the risks being so high is great, it is like
being on the motorbike and taking a fast corner. Brilliant. Chris and Jez also
did Topsail on the Sunday.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi74Z1pdo3WhrY0UpB8yvmdwBcBblZiV4gq7ztMxhdUwpuIEpMjYgetsTrQ1_tlptxta1OQlBsNV91RKBmbA6G_hUzKFE1NAxENvV9pBD2rhzzfV75EYvtXyWO80Heinxqu5CTL2DJbb9c/s1600/DSCF2808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi74Z1pdo3WhrY0UpB8yvmdwBcBblZiV4gq7ztMxhdUwpuIEpMjYgetsTrQ1_tlptxta1OQlBsNV91RKBmbA6G_hUzKFE1NAxENvV9pBD2rhzzfV75EYvtXyWO80Heinxqu5CTL2DJbb9c/s320/DSCF2808.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqN_AS1L92FsiRob9QNYmJ4b0SEX9NjnCeChHAhZYDXDgWL7xl1Ungwq_Nj_-s-WsUTEAatmrBxdwhHwZSJncKaTFxdI0e7BAg481dpux5ryFoi3HyX5I1uQixWqBOmI0oArrJzUBSQVPs/s1600/DSCF2810.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqN_AS1L92FsiRob9QNYmJ4b0SEX9NjnCeChHAhZYDXDgWL7xl1Ungwq_Nj_-s-WsUTEAatmrBxdwhHwZSJncKaTFxdI0e7BAg481dpux5ryFoi3HyX5I1uQixWqBOmI0oArrJzUBSQVPs/s320/DSCF2810.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEingBaoNCZrsvrxCqnwRtMkEYGUQy6U9s15gREZAyejcHV0Cy13LqyijIXuyjFf3pfpWWEeUu6cXBB-0AnARD3uLKdRcRtq5rvKTQ4zGJT7YohnSc_5hrpnQH8b8l3IfcGRytJgcpoAM491/s1600/DSCF2812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEingBaoNCZrsvrxCqnwRtMkEYGUQy6U9s15gREZAyejcHV0Cy13LqyijIXuyjFf3pfpWWEeUu6cXBB-0AnARD3uLKdRcRtq5rvKTQ4zGJT7YohnSc_5hrpnQH8b8l3IfcGRytJgcpoAM491/s320/DSCF2812.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtp1cbWwRQ3WrHhQese_h9FwcLXixkYguLJ8udDfOnd7EGq1SBRcjO-HMKZ2tXxe178jzuO5ZFYNSY4KcQo2nz427y3k39-_aGCMI3xr-QDS17lbdaJIApsoetiLGNDxk5yJMUV2Mb-dJJ/s1600/DSCF2822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtp1cbWwRQ3WrHhQese_h9FwcLXixkYguLJ8udDfOnd7EGq1SBRcjO-HMKZ2tXxe178jzuO5ZFYNSY4KcQo2nz427y3k39-_aGCMI3xr-QDS17lbdaJIApsoetiLGNDxk5yJMUV2Mb-dJJ/s320/DSCF2822.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Getting
the rope and gear out, Thea jumped on Trafalgar Crack (VD 4a). Nicely led she
was calm and smooth all the way. Stops seconded the route. Well done to the
pair of them.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3oXmWuAY3pnRPZtWevjejkqHTfdMkTHxXnTHDvZ48DidhVdE0UGmT_PxnBQwYwXT-6_hynuCQ7O7gnLscGq54vbAqKvVdiMwriSloprO3USBs7iYF5YljQfLt9-sGEA9C-CIlmJahx1Bd/s1600/DSCF2831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3oXmWuAY3pnRPZtWevjejkqHTfdMkTHxXnTHDvZ48DidhVdE0UGmT_PxnBQwYwXT-6_hynuCQ7O7gnLscGq54vbAqKvVdiMwriSloprO3USBs7iYF5YljQfLt9-sGEA9C-CIlmJahx1Bd/s320/DSCF2831.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thea on Trafalgar Crack.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Collaring
Ellie for a belay I got on Orpheus Wall (HVS 5c), described as being ‘one of
the most frigged in the Peak’ (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Eastern
Grit</i>). So the challenge was set, would I get the onsight? The initial moves
were hard, then I reached the large horizontal break placed a pair of cams and
considered how I was meant to reach the next good hold. Pumping up and starting
to think I would have to rest on the gear desperation set in, I attempted heel
hooks and various high leg manoeuvres. Nothing was working. I looked at my
gear, looked at the next hold, told Ellie to watch me and jumped. I… missed.
Then fell. Suddenly the gear caught me. Thanks for the catch Ellie! A quick
rest and I pulled back on. The leap worked this time. Hanging on one arm I sorted
out and finished the route. The route lived up to its reputation. Henry quickly
jumped on the route after me and did it with far more grace. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv8JuIXH6KjcrrdUqMtQ1-tzPWTkmxD2H2insWUaTSd3MURRIM3MPL5l6BbHkBrnLwQgNOTpNSCgRwJF1JxXbkBbkEVzWTnQEHKWCFv7h96FG4_7cRYh159oXJsIZbYGNx7OlDbmoHFt34/s1600/531240_768472555523_284204405_7556882_1079324981_n+jordans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv8JuIXH6KjcrrdUqMtQ1-tzPWTkmxD2H2insWUaTSd3MURRIM3MPL5l6BbHkBrnLwQgNOTpNSCgRwJF1JxXbkBbkEVzWTnQEHKWCFv7h96FG4_7cRYh159oXJsIZbYGNx7OlDbmoHFt34/s320/531240_768472555523_284204405_7556882_1079324981_n+jordans.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me lining up for the jump on Orpheus Wall. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Later I
did Ratline (HVS 5b). A great route and completely opposite to Orpheus. The
crux involves a challenging move, changing an undercut/sidepull to a slap up for
a small ripple on the rock. Balance must be maintained all the way. When I
slapped up I missed the good hold and a rubbish small edge (smaller than half a
fingertip) and being precariously balanced I could not adjust the hold and just
had to pull through. Then it was all over. An excellent route. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTZzT7LJamp-TqPSk2VY8WJ6jbQr75sqhDMzSz0luUAT20nV_X-ATfTy2e4Cj8Rg5y3nxYOD0ebnWV0mEw3d_bKWOTyQmlAOq1YQYbS1LZxXDhCxd2673HNw19JaHzmGismBlmm2oIZAWs/s1600/DSCF2833.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTZzT7LJamp-TqPSk2VY8WJ6jbQr75sqhDMzSz0luUAT20nV_X-ATfTy2e4Cj8Rg5y3nxYOD0ebnWV0mEw3d_bKWOTyQmlAOq1YQYbS1LZxXDhCxd2673HNw19JaHzmGismBlmm2oIZAWs/s320/DSCF2833.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me (pre-crux) on Ratline.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfQpXFx-fx_D_AY1JaFr3YyXe7VLQljWnGj9pKFkGRI4ij8Gla0n2W1wXc3roRR1Wmne5ldnB6OqwwX-whDTmlNQHybxtVpdd2hHn2avWTvDQEjvP7H6IxqgBuQroNe5fZjCG8rydO4cV/s1600/DSCF2835.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfQpXFx-fx_D_AY1JaFr3YyXe7VLQljWnGj9pKFkGRI4ij8Gla0n2W1wXc3roRR1Wmne5ldnB6OqwwX-whDTmlNQHybxtVpdd2hHn2avWTvDQEjvP7H6IxqgBuQroNe5fZjCG8rydO4cV/s320/DSCF2835.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thea coming up on the second on Ratline.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Other occurrences
during the day included meeting Chris Fitzhugh, a seventy-four year old
climbing veteran who was on a soloing mission. He took some of the group to do
some of the more esoteric routes on Birchen. He authored <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pieces of Eight </i>(found in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Froggatt
to Black Rocks</i>, BMC, 2010, pp. 263). It is a series of eight variants of a
route, including a feet first version. Chris (Ripper) managed to do all of them
in the day. Chris Fitzhugh is a prime example of keeping going, of not getting
old and having a blast with the one life that you get. I wish him many more
happy years of climbing. Thank you for your time Chris. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">We had a
BBQ and beer on the return home. Another chilled evening with great friends. Next
morning was slow as the weather was forecast for rain. We all relaxed worn out,
physically and mentally. Watching the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">First
Assent </i>series was a good end to a brilliant weekend. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Thank
you to all those who came along. I hope you all really enjoyed it. It was a
lovely to be able to ‘Swing Life Away’. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0WLj6ybjabLHFsSUM4sneCsF14vOjFdRtyhkfue1DSXmJzVxOseeIp95P5qJMptlwo66gIkHELmx_YLBATyKI4DiBCAudxsO7Kn3Dnyro-AXYRfvmuENtci9qnM2XVqShuIeUBvLFL7SX/s1600/DSCF2860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0WLj6ybjabLHFsSUM4sneCsF14vOjFdRtyhkfue1DSXmJzVxOseeIp95P5qJMptlwo66gIkHELmx_YLBATyKI4DiBCAudxsO7Kn3Dnyro-AXYRfvmuENtci9qnM2XVqShuIeUBvLFL7SX/s320/DSCF2860.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 'gang' at Birchen.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Some
videos:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_392378848"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">Swing Life Away</span></i></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiCJ-UxbCjQ"> by Rise Against</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><a href="http://vimeo.com/40940163">Grit Ground Up (climbing video)</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcEuJ89VrW4&feature=context-vrec">Holtanna (Big Wall climbing and BASE jumping in Antarctica)</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=IVlMfYd-Qiw%20%20">Kiwi or not Kiwi (Castle Hill bouldering in NZ)</a> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">One of the reasons I cannot wait to get to NZ </span></div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-60205965794683554922012-05-10T23:47:00.001+01:002012-05-10T23:47:15.141+01:00Why do we fall...<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">‘Why do we fall, sir? So we can learn to pick
ourselves up.’ Alfred Pennyworth (Michael Caine, in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Batman Begins</i>).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Falling down (well at least off) has been a theme
recently. With two consecutive trips to the Great Orme (21/22.04.2012) on a grey
and damp weekend a group of us worked a series of routes. Pete, Henry and I after
warming up in Split Infinity cave tried Split Infinity Direct (claimed to be F6c,
but took trad gear to make safe and felt harder than any 6c I’ve done). Requiring
a leap to start and then frantic moves through a series of roofs it is an
inspiring line. The moves between each roof are hard. Each of us took turns on
progressing up working the moves, little progress at a time, each time getting
a bit further. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Moving to clip to last
bolt and insight of the belay bolts the rain started. Play stopped and the
route had to be abandoned. One to come back to. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUgkTLhHXqPWHiE_jzvvIMx0cDy9oRla55lKSMUWiKURvJbY9qLT37Wm385VWcsgtwTbwsP3cwk4cxuktwttIzGheIiSwJSxGpdH3TDr0Zeagidd4ZPf5mb-meyGKrN_qS2uk8Vgz1ahQB/s1600/DSCF2655.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUgkTLhHXqPWHiE_jzvvIMx0cDy9oRla55lKSMUWiKURvJbY9qLT37Wm385VWcsgtwTbwsP3cwk4cxuktwttIzGheIiSwJSxGpdH3TDr0Zeagidd4ZPf5mb-meyGKrN_qS2uk8Vgz1ahQB/s320/DSCF2655.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete tackling one of the roofs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grabbing the jug and getting a rest.</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me lowering off in the rain.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">We moved into Parisella’s Cave to have a go on some
of the harder boulder problems. We all played on the left hand wall and Parisella’s
Original. Again falling off was the main feature for all of us. However with perseverance
progress was made, with all of us making significant steps on the problems.
Time and light levels caused us to leave before we finished the problems but we’ll
be back. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the Left Wall Traverse.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgslNdI8JVIurSIfnmj190D1ysmEnAb0n-UxNekJUe6RHpj4J1M37djF1hkzUR1fs5y3Sl0cVQ_PS7NwWaGUcfBlRt72b7W1EMi0kAn52pKKY-D18eT9TEexiiVLQ3yPcm6K35ROvc8rmaF/s1600/DSCF2694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgslNdI8JVIurSIfnmj190D1ysmEnAb0n-UxNekJUe6RHpj4J1M37djF1hkzUR1fs5y3Sl0cVQ_PS7NwWaGUcfBlRt72b7W1EMi0kAn52pKKY-D18eT9TEexiiVLQ3yPcm6K35ROvc8rmaF/s320/DSCF2694.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Attempting Parrisella's Original. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNlAu7pxHKTIgdzDgW-SVZAtIRumZYHEyV59xU6eiTYMdiedZ6LhMdjFvPmhiPHo-Kl-1xUdKxE3UKmj3-tnbQlRYcBoSwNHzSdG5sMEZSQuYHcQsX5NKcmqXJK8Qr1RsLie3oNWvwCT8S/s1600/DSCF2701.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNlAu7pxHKTIgdzDgW-SVZAtIRumZYHEyV59xU6eiTYMdiedZ6LhMdjFvPmhiPHo-Kl-1xUdKxE3UKmj3-tnbQlRYcBoSwNHzSdG5sMEZSQuYHcQsX5NKcmqXJK8Qr1RsLie3oNWvwCT8S/s320/DSCF2701.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete doing the same.</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">The next day I meet Dylan. He was psyched for
cracking on with hard routes (and being tried after two days of climbing I was
happy messing around on a top rope). Dylan’s inspiring redpoint on You’ve Had
Your Chips (F7b) meant that I had the chance to attempt a route that I would
never had tried at the moment. I made little progress and fell of numerous
times, but I battled on and still did not finish the route. Trying things that
are beyond your limit and that you have a tiny chance of succeeding with can be
highly demoralising, that is if you let it get to you. If you approach the situation
as the quote from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Batman Begins </i>suggests,
that failure is only failure if you do not get back up, then trying something challenging
leads to development, rather than annoyance at not completing it. Also attempted that day was Cage Full of Budgies (F7a) and Werry's Woof Woot (F7a+), the latter I did on the redpoint. It was great to have finally succeeded at the end of the day on something that I thought was beyond my limit, but it was only achieved by getting back on the route after failing several times. </span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">A quick fix on the Friday night with Dale was
secured with an evening at Bus Stop Quarry. It was a great break from the
stress of essay writing. First we did Solstice (HVS 5a), a great route, which
gets the arm pump going quickly. Dale came up on the second loving it. We
tackled Bosch Stop Quarry (6a+) and Bish Bash Bosch (6a+) a pair of good routes
if slightly poorly bolted (Bosch Stop requires you to clip halfway through the
crux, if you’re a bit short like me). Last we got on Gnat Attack (E1 5c)
protected by a Cam and a pair of bolts. Designer danger and a real blast of a
route. Due to the sun setting the rock was going cold and I could not feel the
tiny holds. Trusting my feet I went for it. Suddenly it was all over. Dale went
on the second, a practice run for leading. He fell once on the crux moves, got
straight back on and finished it. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Next day a phone call from Matt and Jack resulted in
another visit to Bus Stop Quarry. This time Fool’s Gold (E1 5c) got repeated.
Jack took some really good pictures of me on the route (so a big thank you goes
out to him). Fool’s Gold is an amazing route, one of my favourites. Safe as
houses but with amazing moves. You stand on a good ledge, place some gear, then
step up and out on to the main face then through a series of jams and face
holds make progress up the crack line. Just brilliant. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiding under the lip before stepping out onto the main face.</td></tr>
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<div style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40h2VbikMNBC5MxvXQWV3aVeGSt8F7YKcMoV1EPVfR5TZRASclOPVKGnAky2SSsMfEGfNF6Wsnjl3C2kipr3rjajLZUvT9GutBHMSyz8v8cALLp7_1HFYZrPiLC8ZIVMLlt1Mo9S_aQil/s1600/DSCF2729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40h2VbikMNBC5MxvXQWV3aVeGSt8F7YKcMoV1EPVfR5TZRASclOPVKGnAky2SSsMfEGfNF6Wsnjl3C2kipr3rjajLZUvT9GutBHMSyz8v8cALLp7_1HFYZrPiLC8ZIVMLlt1Mo9S_aQil/s320/DSCF2729.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stepping out.</td></tr>
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<div style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf3-tEmMlFcnh1RJIHQAYs4SEwv_NKj6xAVx2x_RYhAoKymc2RqIzKY33liVNj9W-bVFHwvLkwVfeihUZJ8wTAo-0xWUQbCOM8JxVTzdG97g_UcDI2SSwXcNwmWbOiuM2EUGMfznO0JLwj/s1600/DSCF2735.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf3-tEmMlFcnh1RJIHQAYs4SEwv_NKj6xAVx2x_RYhAoKymc2RqIzKY33liVNj9W-bVFHwvLkwVfeihUZJ8wTAo-0xWUQbCOM8JxVTzdG97g_UcDI2SSwXcNwmWbOiuM2EUGMfznO0JLwj/s320/DSCF2735.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And up we go.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuqTKT4VQSBVGrwlFv8LPkiVeldKCpdXmgslLPJxYxy8fdbBVLZCSnB6eQH4kjefakzWSYWeQvhD5KYy6cTJ-vGDqW50hU4rpR34SjXJgKbido55ZnD6jkueIRUiwft2hqRlXY5bBC-6IJ/s1600/DSCF2747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuqTKT4VQSBVGrwlFv8LPkiVeldKCpdXmgslLPJxYxy8fdbBVLZCSnB6eQH4kjefakzWSYWeQvhD5KYy6cTJ-vGDqW50hU4rpR34SjXJgKbido55ZnD6jkueIRUiwft2hqRlXY5bBC-6IJ/s320/DSCF2747.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Get in the groove.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9PZgHaUT5SVjTIA7Z3stMV414guUwksKfDlQLyzemVgNY5aEdlYz5JFJu1FdsYzqmP_jGoW4Z0Oe5GFoXHZAwjfK2g6aAXemlknHMSh3Gv77VmbUvx2XRJK8V2HkUySc33QSpNTEUpZ9a/s1600/DSCF2754.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9PZgHaUT5SVjTIA7Z3stMV414guUwksKfDlQLyzemVgNY5aEdlYz5JFJu1FdsYzqmP_jGoW4Z0Oe5GFoXHZAwjfK2g6aAXemlknHMSh3Gv77VmbUvx2XRJK8V2HkUySc33QSpNTEUpZ9a/s320/DSCF2754.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And push for the top.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<br /></div>
<h1 style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Getting back up and attacking the
situation again is important in life, too many people get knocked down and do
not stand back up. Going guts for glory can make all the difference in whether
you succeed or fail. Once the risks have been weighed up, a measure taken, then
all that is left is to commit. As Mark Twain said ‘Twenty years from now you
will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you
did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade
winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.’. </span></h1>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">N.b. The essays were finished in the following week,
several short nights sleep occurred. I think I’ll start them earlier next time.
Roughly 10,000 words in a week was not fun. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-26588345338921716622012-04-08T15:10:00.002+01:002012-04-12T10:46:22.776+01:00Big moves, little adjustments.<br />
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There are often times, in climbing; motor biking and life,
where the only option to make progress is to commit to a big move. Retreat is
often not possible. The contemplation of the move is normally more terrifying
than the actual action. Although the time scale for making the decision can
vary massively, from split seconds on the motor bike to days (months even) to
choose if that job/house/uni degree is the right one, the difficulty posed by
the choice can be just as difficult. The reason for this is that once committed
that is it, “Do or Fly” as the climbing statement goes. Almost in opposition to
this idea is that little adjustments can make all the difference to whether the
task at hand is successful or not. They are as vital as the big moves but
require a slightly alternative mind-set. A closed-hand-crimp on a slate route,
rather than an open-hand-crimp (a tiny adjustment), allows that move to go
ahead and you to stick it. Life requires these adjustments all the time to
ensure, as the Stella Artois advert goes, ‘a smooth outcome’. Combining the two
ideas is important, if you have all the little adjustments in place the big
moves are easy and even more so if you are prepared to make the little
adjustments whilst committed to that big move. Yet for all the fear and
anxiety, once all the factors come together the rewards can be great.</div>
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Recently I’ve been managing the big moves and little
adjustments in many aspects of life. Perhaps of most significant is that when I
finish university at Bangor (about a year and a few months from now) I’m moving
to New Zealand on, for the foreseeable future, a permanent basis. My Dad,
sisters and dogs are already out there, my Mum is moving as soon as the house
has sold. It is a big move, economically and emotionally committing, and bailing
out would be very difficult. It is an exciting prospect yet all the time it is
requiring adjustments to plans and prospects. I’m having to try to fit in trips
and visits to places before I leave: Scotland, the Old Man of Hoy, Ben Nevis,
the Pennine Way and Scarfell Pike to name a few. It means having to sell many
things with emotional attachments because they cannot be taken to New Zealand. These
changes are important to making the transition process easier. Although modern
technology makes communication far easier and quicker I am really not looking
forward to saying good bye (or probably a better way of putting it: au revoir)
to my friends. </div>
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In terms of climbing I’ve not been able to get out on the
real stuff as much as I was hoping over the last few weeks. The end of uni
before Easter was busy with essays and preparation for coming home. However I
had a great, chilled-out day at Holyhead Mountain with Tristan, James and Thea.
I did some teaching of gear placements, rigging and other techniques and then
watched as James and Thea did some good starter leads. I did D’elephant for the
first time, a surprisingly good VDiff. James later in the day led his first
Severe, Tempest (S 4a) with Thea seconding him. I did Andover (VS 5a), a fairly
pumpy route with good gear all the way, and Breaking the Barrier (E1 5b), this
was the second time I had lead it (the first time was a real struggle, small
gear and cold fingers had scared me something silly) and I cruised it, a real relief.
Breaking the Barrier fits this idea that small adjustments can make or break
the route. A slight change on the way that a certain hold is held is really
important in a few places. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJnxm6HJH3gAc7Y-fUJwHQ6nWisVMxMDqJeGYVptKWccBcXr3MOHjDo3qc9CwJSkK0gHai7riQ46EARJZJzgrJ26CxB0PcR9s6Wea4bh88WYNPqvl2gzxsBBSbRVFykb6-ZEGHVJsHRVRy/s1600/DSCF2504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJnxm6HJH3gAc7Y-fUJwHQ6nWisVMxMDqJeGYVptKWccBcXr3MOHjDo3qc9CwJSkK0gHai7riQ46EARJZJzgrJ26CxB0PcR9s6Wea4bh88WYNPqvl2gzxsBBSbRVFykb6-ZEGHVJsHRVRy/s320/DSCF2504.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thea on D'elephant (Right), James on a VDiff next to it (Left).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxe4fzBWv3kmqxURcNhs124LOFhyEzsR4-6iMDNqk8stxnnR0jqJCsyAAyHH1RKr0jn0j7w3YeZCWzz-SvKck4iiXeaP0B7MtrYH5HcnEQSr_w8aJaIzcdjsI7xm3RgaMhmaaG8dLQjURN/s1600/DSCF2513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxe4fzBWv3kmqxURcNhs124LOFhyEzsR4-6iMDNqk8stxnnR0jqJCsyAAyHH1RKr0jn0j7w3YeZCWzz-SvKck4iiXeaP0B7MtrYH5HcnEQSr_w8aJaIzcdjsI7xm3RgaMhmaaG8dLQjURN/s320/DSCF2513.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thea learning to Ab with a prusik.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjmoqArksyelupsMOnRHokYI-LpA0FpFIkk1HrZiHV-zsGsjlxmnCua31Vzj6N2Vu4V8IKP5Wgdgz-oy3u0ReQNHLb3p01R10CALserjdT2R5FARc40cMwwOnEcEqbAToZjGlvju7H_kIM/s1600/DSCF2514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjmoqArksyelupsMOnRHokYI-LpA0FpFIkk1HrZiHV-zsGsjlxmnCua31Vzj6N2Vu4V8IKP5Wgdgz-oy3u0ReQNHLb3p01R10CALserjdT2R5FARc40cMwwOnEcEqbAToZjGlvju7H_kIM/s320/DSCF2514.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tristan learning to Ab with a prusik.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCUI5_ngz-hF31lBAgfnch0ym3lYE-XO660xQdLrKzzFgfwNqGMRYpxQNpub2Op0ZGovcOAKTmiiKXtbQYQD7qsiYWEaA33zwq89T20k_hWxk-1xOBDRz2ir2r2GAgJy8-skWNyOqc4d-c/s1600/DSCF2541.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCUI5_ngz-hF31lBAgfnch0ym3lYE-XO660xQdLrKzzFgfwNqGMRYpxQNpub2Op0ZGovcOAKTmiiKXtbQYQD7qsiYWEaA33zwq89T20k_hWxk-1xOBDRz2ir2r2GAgJy8-skWNyOqc4d-c/s320/DSCF2541.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thea seconding Tempest (S 4a).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-n53q7-15tB-Xdo1YISToni64c4wGMdYMGaKVMnF5alNTM8M5uSHBaAX77cUUupBUKfgl2ECR5HZfG1U80sQZmhQ5wMVFKmI-CeFHzqcHBS85eeETQy53m_kkX6rEBGwmVaUVNoqLZOeN/s1600/DSCF2515.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-n53q7-15tB-Xdo1YISToni64c4wGMdYMGaKVMnF5alNTM8M5uSHBaAX77cUUupBUKfgl2ECR5HZfG1U80sQZmhQ5wMVFKmI-CeFHzqcHBS85eeETQy53m_kkX6rEBGwmVaUVNoqLZOeN/s320/DSCF2515.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Andover (VS 5a).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnp4vaZbesaG0jmMtNeakqAU0cFNH0cq48sbJRPZFPCzP_gXumPYMQbcUtbEvYkDQkWDNvtu1Ez2lzxf7qm7AhUo_n0ZzlG67IZn7SRgmnsUiGvCvygQOyaOAbuHkUfG4Dg13vSDhC_jf-/s1600/DSCF2546.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnp4vaZbesaG0jmMtNeakqAU0cFNH0cq48sbJRPZFPCzP_gXumPYMQbcUtbEvYkDQkWDNvtu1Ez2lzxf7qm7AhUo_n0ZzlG67IZn7SRgmnsUiGvCvygQOyaOAbuHkUfG4Dg13vSDhC_jf-/s320/DSCF2546.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Breaking the Barrier (E1 5b).</td></tr>
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On the Saturday (24.03.12) before coming home for Easter I
took my Grandparents up Snowdon, at seventy-two my Granddad had never been up
which was a real surprise to say that he does and has done a lot of walking. We
went up from Llanberis, across Telegraph Pole Valley, up the Ranger’s Path and
came down the railway path. Lovely weather ensured the day, although longer
than I expected, went smoothly.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfyFAIEHY6yPwATuBJhkiAncZEyOXf_EFn_ZVzlzKfqcRPRz7ky7Ngi0Vpbsswnm35cmLqmwNpiTJwDYnpU2x4RLHuVdZY-FhuQvQgOPpyD842Q1pGDrVxVsjNRGmOULN80_yLVTTJMKbo/s1600/DSCF2567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfyFAIEHY6yPwATuBJhkiAncZEyOXf_EFn_ZVzlzKfqcRPRz7ky7Ngi0Vpbsswnm35cmLqmwNpiTJwDYnpU2x4RLHuVdZY-FhuQvQgOPpyD842Q1pGDrVxVsjNRGmOULN80_yLVTTJMKbo/s320/DSCF2567.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having a breather.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq8bEogbgGVoGMD5ZJzMIHH7Qsovh8CoT-y4k3dl_2PNW21fz5mwuHMMcIeQrdBUwQDuQQejF3aXR_HAYO_HdZ2yS8EMIcP0fDWMiLtdbPrE6-9hkApDarL8QO7vpaxdtVaRrdlJz6nBMn/s1600/DSCF2571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq8bEogbgGVoGMD5ZJzMIHH7Qsovh8CoT-y4k3dl_2PNW21fz5mwuHMMcIeQrdBUwQDuQQejF3aXR_HAYO_HdZ2yS8EMIcP0fDWMiLtdbPrE6-9hkApDarL8QO7vpaxdtVaRrdlJz6nBMn/s320/DSCF2571.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way up the Ranger's Path.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggCTR6MzdSCHdenFAiUJm5I7luIQQ8GaHVhHkRbOIe6Kv-F4GhVJzjRHtI3XBQVrUipJCbEqz7JhiyJiemO-D-P9GHpli88VnTuwccKqSbQGdzg0zZE0NwOe0knJyok74lSvgmfrkL3rze/s1600/DSCF2578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggCTR6MzdSCHdenFAiUJm5I7luIQQ8GaHVhHkRbOIe6Kv-F4GhVJzjRHtI3XBQVrUipJCbEqz7JhiyJiemO-D-P9GHpli88VnTuwccKqSbQGdzg0zZE0NwOe0knJyok74lSvgmfrkL3rze/s320/DSCF2578.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Granddad on top of Snowdon at 72 years young. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Last Sunday
(01.04.12) I went with my mum to Stanage Edge to have a play on the grit.
Warming up on some VS/S’s was good fun. My mum, who has done very little
outdoor climbing and had a bad cold, managed to second up most of the routes.
Well done, impressive job. We stopped for a bite to eat and I saw Rugosity
Crack (HVS 5b), an excellent crack line leading up to some stereotypical grit slopers.
The route’s two very different aspects makes it very interesting. The crack
line has two jugs, one about half way and one at the top with some careful
foot-work the moves between can be done fairly easily, again big moves, little
adjustments. We went further along the Edge to the Flying Buttress. Looking up
the centre of the buttress an imposing but obvious route appears, Flying Buttress
Direct (HVS 5b, according to the guide book; <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Rockfax: Eastern Grit</i>). Racked and psyched up I went for it. The slab
offers no protection but is easy climbing. Cluster several bits of gear at the
base of the roof, extend your quickdraws and go. Big, powerful moves here, and
little adjustments from foot jams to heel hooks ensure your feet stay on. Stay
calm! Push through the small amount of flash pump, ignore the fact that whilst
fiddling with the gear that a fall would result in slamming into the slab below
you, chuck gear in the crack and pull through. Now crack on and the worse is
suddenly over. Before I realised it I was at the top. One of the best routes I’ve
ever done. After getting my gear back with a novel abseil, I went and did a
series of solos; of real worth were: Flying Buttress (HVD) and The Real
Twenty-Foot Crack (VS 4c). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1eKpSDXKOQtGiBpczvkcuXKACatNfQyBR4lxGDY14RmiwFtqnjJkf2yQZgnzlLfbXcXWXiyIUl7CvivQ2BrxZnrF6c7807J1Yq2VEVhhULsLTf8SmwJyfkpOg5SMbzdhTxPwTpCnB5pE-/s1600/DSCF2579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1eKpSDXKOQtGiBpczvkcuXKACatNfQyBR4lxGDY14RmiwFtqnjJkf2yQZgnzlLfbXcXWXiyIUl7CvivQ2BrxZnrF6c7807J1Yq2VEVhhULsLTf8SmwJyfkpOg5SMbzdhTxPwTpCnB5pE-/s320/DSCF2579.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting ready for the roof.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbL91SWYIZwi3OXxRFyCiRN9lBbQF-Vw0RRAPhZp4naHoiRQfGq4FjMbEh45TpGC4KbgCBH8kqEN8vVboaHCSY-R2dK6QrFo3DXcJVJaDsuKhP7kxeDBIs2p_6T__ZTP2L8H7AmrsxZPRp/s1600/DSCF2580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbL91SWYIZwi3OXxRFyCiRN9lBbQF-Vw0RRAPhZp4naHoiRQfGq4FjMbEh45TpGC4KbgCBH8kqEN8vVboaHCSY-R2dK6QrFo3DXcJVJaDsuKhP7kxeDBIs2p_6T__ZTP2L8H7AmrsxZPRp/s320/DSCF2580.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the easy bit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggC19rMAuGQFYBPYTykKusNx4yEujgFZPPrLo7o9Omb6JBAqKWql7LNecMEy-5B8cMtmuEQ5w4wwd98zEDme5xzWg-_eh2flOspIdQ09GMj2jkKCgEiAs50IMLTAJGKay9XCivGrcYndq9/s1600/DSCF2583.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggC19rMAuGQFYBPYTykKusNx4yEujgFZPPrLo7o9Omb6JBAqKWql7LNecMEy-5B8cMtmuEQ5w4wwd98zEDme5xzWg-_eh2flOspIdQ09GMj2jkKCgEiAs50IMLTAJGKay9XCivGrcYndq9/s320/DSCF2583.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topping out.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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So are you ready for your big moves and little adjustments? </div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Some videos:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://vimeo.com/39771821">Life enhancement programme, Trad Climbing a sport route</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://vimeo.com/28830060">Some lads having a blast in Parisella’s Cave</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=WzBaPd3OxmM">Leo Holding and Co. in Venezuela</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=6SxH2ILd74c">Grave Diggers, Llanberis Pass from the OnSight climbing film</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://vimeo.com/38558708">Some guys having a play in the snow in Latvia</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYOEGymrYCk"><i>I Got Love</i>, by The King Blues </a></div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-85581522677037974062012-03-11T14:19:00.000+00:002012-03-11T14:19:27.668+00:00Upwards and Onwards'Getting there' seems to be the mantra that keeps going through my head at the moment. My strength and stamina is improving almost weekly now. It feels good.<br />
<br />
It is to such an extent that in the last couple of weeks that I’ve ticked off three routes (Pel, Cemetery Gates and Hydro) that have been lined up for some time. <br />
<br />
It was an early start on a Saturday morning that kicked my trad climbing back into gear. Having loaded the bike with all the gear; one fairly large trad rack, three ropes (one 70m, two 60m half ropes), helmets, harnesses etc., Dale and myself hit the road. Destination Castell Helen on Gogarth South Stack, it was about 06.40. Low tide was at 06.04, we would have enough time if we go a reasonable move on. By the time we had geared up, set up the abseil, ab’ed in and got sorted in the little belay niche it was about 08.00. I set off up the first pitch. Pel (VS 4c), but the combination of first thing in the morning and having not done any trad leading since 27.11.11 made the first pitch feel far harder. The line follows a rough right-hand upwards-diagonal which then hits a corner up to the belay ledge. Cool moves all the way along, fairly sustained and above the sea meant I loved every minute. With the belay set up, Dale practically waltzed along to the belay ledge. A quick break on the ledge to swap over and sort out the gear and Dale set off. The second pitch is very different, easier (and not so good climbing) but with little protection could make it spicy. Calm and collected Dale cruised it. Before I knew it we were at the top. Time for a cup of tea at the shop on South Stack.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHltFfhXp4aBC8sJGuanSZD_89c-JiseCvIYj7VzGwrJJMvrQuITcr7XI9TXk15v4RB163onHN2DU1yXjL0fa-b2nlUC3qY6DoDGbzu9l8t0NAHCT7af9aHH4d3DxJyWqq2q2S4FkGRBj6/s1600/DSCF2214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHltFfhXp4aBC8sJGuanSZD_89c-JiseCvIYj7VzGwrJJMvrQuITcr7XI9TXk15v4RB163onHN2DU1yXjL0fa-b2nlUC3qY6DoDGbzu9l8t0NAHCT7af9aHH4d3DxJyWqq2q2S4FkGRBj6/s320/DSCF2214.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The corner on the first pitch of Pel.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjakIcOOY7EPIUKsJyF20GvWoaRX8A0A1hGrL1P9Q_io40QEstTDQLq8W26sO_zOjvt1k3yMB_UEqnsnAQh6bdz6pa9DJ76u6TNSSQvCzVPFQA8kKTPGf_rKqAkDtgthdCRWaQbIUgt1jwn/s1600/DSCF2219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjakIcOOY7EPIUKsJyF20GvWoaRX8A0A1hGrL1P9Q_io40QEstTDQLq8W26sO_zOjvt1k3yMB_UEqnsnAQh6bdz6pa9DJ76u6TNSSQvCzVPFQA8kKTPGf_rKqAkDtgthdCRWaQbIUgt1jwn/s320/DSCF2219.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dale half way along the first pitch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3W6txLcLy9lx0YvXA3D6edws3sfvmuzocseR3RSnub0opnhXNHogqnQ_daxHfw9cARuhX13eY3C_j7_BJDgSOpHc7YkxQEcpgvlyhePtWgbv5K3Dk3sB1unkvlCmUs3K6-iEUOGruBRPU/s1600/DSCF2223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3W6txLcLy9lx0YvXA3D6edws3sfvmuzocseR3RSnub0opnhXNHogqnQ_daxHfw9cARuhX13eY3C_j7_BJDgSOpHc7YkxQEcpgvlyhePtWgbv5K3Dk3sB1unkvlCmUs3K6-iEUOGruBRPU/s320/DSCF2223.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dale heading up pitch two</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the top. Time for a cuppa.</td></tr>
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Dale wanting to get some mileage in and crack a couple of routes suggested we went to Holyhead Mountain. He got on Teaser (VS 4c), a tricky little corner route that requires a cool calm head as it is a bit of a pump-fest for the grade. After he nearly had a wobbler (a reasonable distance from the last bit of gear and rather pumped), he chucked in the required cam and finished the route. I then did Cursing (VS 4c) a reasonable route with a distinct crux and a good exposed finish, it proved to be harder than I remembered it to be. Dale to finish the day did Pleasant Surprise (HS 4c). On the way back down the A55 Dale fell asleep on the back of the bike, I was impressed. My driving must be pretty smooth. A brilliant day out.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD-xzfUdk4A2vEoc7FtTky6YQkV2nkTl913HToiP1I2EdVOpzmOY4KPRb4MtqoLmJr5cRaZaRMCHnuVeAU31cBDRUdwJPRIgj8qmZCcVXABhUlQfnk9wRYVpuXf8wgS77Gsi1AHDHuOuXR/s1600/DSCF2238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD-xzfUdk4A2vEoc7FtTky6YQkV2nkTl913HToiP1I2EdVOpzmOY4KPRb4MtqoLmJr5cRaZaRMCHnuVeAU31cBDRUdwJPRIgj8qmZCcVXABhUlQfnk9wRYVpuXf8wgS77Gsi1AHDHuOuXR/s320/DSCF2238.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dale on Teaser.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiil0_f8jp3Yz83tzH2qGQNjkV1P6kdGQOThN7PGBcmN6ZyM7-uyE_OGnSU7UnbpKkrpSBDaq669EcDKRQHDw6XIaSi_OKAa3G2UNDFy1KeMM2LlvpG5vSAxbGudzTTwEnbGn3XqGyy1bC0/s1600/DSCF2247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiil0_f8jp3Yz83tzH2qGQNjkV1P6kdGQOThN7PGBcmN6ZyM7-uyE_OGnSU7UnbpKkrpSBDaq669EcDKRQHDw6XIaSi_OKAa3G2UNDFy1KeMM2LlvpG5vSAxbGudzTTwEnbGn3XqGyy1bC0/s320/DSCF2247.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me, post-crux, on Cursing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYpQvuhEVeXtHteK6CHIYRKNSgpfQHf-4id6YoQXh003xKwRw4rw_u65iAqhLw5USY1HXGPSOuXJsWMBwnDzS_TCPWzw1agHpFJ-uGCf1WsXvhve3nisFBm1aAdlYs8k2NepzE1bnWsI2b/s1600/DSCF2254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYpQvuhEVeXtHteK6CHIYRKNSgpfQHf-4id6YoQXh003xKwRw4rw_u65iAqhLw5USY1HXGPSOuXJsWMBwnDzS_TCPWzw1agHpFJ-uGCf1WsXvhve3nisFBm1aAdlYs8k2NepzE1bnWsI2b/s320/DSCF2254.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dale on Pleasant Surprise.</td></tr>
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After a bit of mad arranging with Pete we headed out on a sunny afternoon to Dinas Cromlech, the plan to tackle Cemetery Gates (E1 5b) and possibly do Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c). We bashed up the approach slope. The little scramble up to the base of the routes is always good fun, a bit tricky and exposed with big, heavy walking boots on. Seeing that Cenotaph was running with water from the-day-before’s rain, we scrapped that bit of the plan. Feeling good and wanting to get the on-sight I opted to lead. Cemetery Gates, what an amazing route. You set off up on some smallish holds with little gear, then step round the corner leftwards onto the main face, you look up this long crack line and go for it. All kinds of climbing is required; jamming, face climbing, crimps, you name it it’s there. Even better is the fact that there is shed-loads of gear. The last few moves were interesting, thinking Ron Fawcett-like ‘Come on arms, do your stuff!’. I’ve clearly been bouldering too much recently. Pumped I reached the optional belay ledge. Looking down I was practically out of quickdraws, so set up a belay and brought Pete up. He was more pumped than I was (one bit of gear had been a horrible fiddle), and asked me to finish the route. More than happy to do so, I pushed on to the top. There is a step round a corner (as you move back right) and looking down the ground just drops away, it is an amazing feeling. Pete came up and we ab’ed down.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFaNdLEFaN8sn19Rg7wZ6EjMyhJAhTtyXtLYkIEH2IPiehUnVFRjiqTsoqCF8GcubZzkmrQP8Vt12bHWNGgiPNjGqzNlxwLy3O_llJ_wnn5BL9tNnUxqrYrgqBW1US-TXDpIzFL9xpsRoi/s1600/DSCF2291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFaNdLEFaN8sn19Rg7wZ6EjMyhJAhTtyXtLYkIEH2IPiehUnVFRjiqTsoqCF8GcubZzkmrQP8Vt12bHWNGgiPNjGqzNlxwLy3O_llJ_wnn5BL9tNnUxqrYrgqBW1US-TXDpIzFL9xpsRoi/s320/DSCF2291.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete making progress to the belay ledge on Cemetery Gates.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigCDwWZjBErpFkZGHlRKHKrJS3L_9UHKzhLOzfZ9KaIeNYZ97PmpX6VfQM2miIAO97zjMB6kCUIKNtBMYuidlhSafhxfP9kat9U6aG3Q0H579uGN2WOM2m9zncltxrj5VPgz3BJzRXNye2/s1600/DSCF2299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigCDwWZjBErpFkZGHlRKHKrJS3L_9UHKzhLOzfZ9KaIeNYZ97PmpX6VfQM2miIAO97zjMB6kCUIKNtBMYuidlhSafhxfP9kat9U6aG3Q0H579uGN2WOM2m9zncltxrj5VPgz3BJzRXNye2/s320/DSCF2299.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting closer.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Next day I had agreed to take my friends Hannah and Brock up Tryfan’s North Ridge. However when we got there it looked wet and grim, not the best conditions for their first accent. Looking on the map I suggested that we headed up onto the Carneddau area. With incredibly mixed weather we had an ace day. Whilst standing on the south-east ridge of Carnedd Llewelyn I could see into the next cwm with Ffynnon Llyffant at it base. I reckon that I could see the gully that I had my accident on. Whilst on the top of Llewelyn, having lunch, we got snowed on. Then we traversed across to Carnedd Dafydd via the ridgeline of the Black Ladders. Then we descended into Ffynnon Lloer. Hannah had never tackled long scree slopes before and had a great time learning to control the sliding steps that the slopes bring. From the lake we wandered back to the road. It is a fairly short and easy circuit that I would recommend to anyone of a competent walking ability, furthermore it is do able in most weather conditions.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgPidDEMUo60Tfuk8ef1YO6bEkGgpe8naIe5XdKdxu6QTVDCnMc7pyOx0IDLy0-ubcVXHSW4k3eNSs2VNCMl71zD9CdYPt0aBnwclfCCTlTG7nVCplaSw3gVypJ_P9fnTHrpEpJ7uQTAZL/s1600/DSCF2310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgPidDEMUo60Tfuk8ef1YO6bEkGgpe8naIe5XdKdxu6QTVDCnMc7pyOx0IDLy0-ubcVXHSW4k3eNSs2VNCMl71zD9CdYPt0aBnwclfCCTlTG7nVCplaSw3gVypJ_P9fnTHrpEpJ7uQTAZL/s320/DSCF2310.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking towards Carnedd Llewelyn.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinTBb7Y3oFs2p05CZi-yt9kGgmkXolitklIEgZWLZ7ovsRl3Exd7TsjYu6ejyJshkdMDuZ5PP9LFsVStOtEcOZa0oQOksjNmFe7vsKVB74uA5DfXdNMNSYTsSwkESXpdaxLJkH_x-XrH9n/s1600/DSCF2317+mk+II.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinTBb7Y3oFs2p05CZi-yt9kGgmkXolitklIEgZWLZ7ovsRl3Exd7TsjYu6ejyJshkdMDuZ5PP9LFsVStOtEcOZa0oQOksjNmFe7vsKVB74uA5DfXdNMNSYTsSwkESXpdaxLJkH_x-XrH9n/s320/DSCF2317+mk+II.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hannah tackling a little scramble section.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8BWK_xC6vF6NezOX9rqBAcqQoWtGWtfFmhpoQfLt_IpCcTQNKNV4njTGbE5b3U3N866OYidpycbAnb9D2Zw-kQb7m0Div6qhO8BFLVprKbr6Q1ywLNAXNUip-nk19BzBZEiLUgk-nxTBt/s1600/DSCF2322+mk+II.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8BWK_xC6vF6NezOX9rqBAcqQoWtGWtfFmhpoQfLt_IpCcTQNKNV4njTGbE5b3U3N866OYidpycbAnb9D2Zw-kQb7m0Div6qhO8BFLVprKbr6Q1ywLNAXNUip-nk19BzBZEiLUgk-nxTBt/s320/DSCF2322+mk+II.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brock doing the same.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4zL1K8Ufr5DqBHWu3iu_Pf-9vfFAk1bFj4OPFEgS7DTR1UZ3U10uReWMZn6RLX1erILBiTgIM2EhHiw6el-7yJAsAvECdNZZ1KRcsUmQmak6K6EqUJAi1vP-SHd11Ch6Y7YVlUt3dHFHn/s1600/DSCF2330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4zL1K8Ufr5DqBHWu3iu_Pf-9vfFAk1bFj4OPFEgS7DTR1UZ3U10uReWMZn6RLX1erILBiTgIM2EhHiw6el-7yJAsAvECdNZZ1KRcsUmQmak6K6EqUJAi1vP-SHd11Ch6Y7YVlUt3dHFHn/s320/DSCF2330.JPG" width="240" /> </a></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A new Prophet? Unlikely.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1rmmlbWetMGBDguwkcDrVuTVIPT4GkoAOLezwv8Sq76q7KvcBzXEgtWVyx9dkApNNwiFN5yy3e8JT2duVCRYMdS8sk9pIHVH8blt7cB2w6iEXObHCC16mLfj-xYD6aYYwzoWwNhAY9Ytt/s1600/DSCF2344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1rmmlbWetMGBDguwkcDrVuTVIPT4GkoAOLezwv8Sq76q7KvcBzXEgtWVyx9dkApNNwiFN5yy3e8JT2duVCRYMdS8sk9pIHVH8blt7cB2w6iEXObHCC16mLfj-xYD6aYYwzoWwNhAY9Ytt/s320/DSCF2344.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hannah on the scree slope.</td></tr>
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The next Tuesday I went with Gwen in the afternoon to the Little Orme to do Hydro (E1 5b). After a bit of a wander trying to find the correct path to the crag we eventually reached it. The wind was blowing hard, the forecast was for dry weather till sunset, it was time to get going on the route. I got to climb first. You go up a pillar-like-bulge on the left-hand side of the cave on reasonable but small gear. This section from no real warm up and the biting wind was very pumpy and required faith in my finger to hold on, as I could not feel the rock under them. Then with some good gear in you step out onto a traverse above the lip of the cave. There is little protection and the crux moves are protected by a couple of rusty pitons, so really it is a no fall zone. Good and hairy. I came down off the route and it was Gwen’s turn. In typical style she did it with no problems. A word of warning to anyone who wants to do the route: Get your second to strip the gear, it is very, very difficult and quite dangerous to attempt to get the gear whilst lowering off. We tried it, bad move and not one to do again. We drove back in the rain and the wind. It was that windy that 70mph was the max I could get out of the bike.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuEtJlz1Cg2psqDDpZXKz3CedV_W4qoNBghxExZwEKPNRr-fqhR1VHZPHO2X2cUA_rrSRHGaRaTE5nw_kbwcp_jqB6KjGTtr8HVushAgRaK1JCGeGELTorrqMDHb11NluR_3UHkAkG1GYm/s1600/DSCF2354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuEtJlz1Cg2psqDDpZXKz3CedV_W4qoNBghxExZwEKPNRr-fqhR1VHZPHO2X2cUA_rrSRHGaRaTE5nw_kbwcp_jqB6KjGTtr8HVushAgRaK1JCGeGELTorrqMDHb11NluR_3UHkAkG1GYm/s320/DSCF2354.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Going up the first section of Hydro.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-motHL9gint2oiw8SzX-uTrvMvlGsCBFTrVe2A_rWlXPlSprlL8wk-IgHIa0hsmtrjn8Xpi9aT3IlNghjQmw9hYWjvH4lEQ5V1Q9vIfsJg-ZAJhd74cFZZEMVrDTgIfk6Sua4471vErcB/s1600/DSCF2360.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-motHL9gint2oiw8SzX-uTrvMvlGsCBFTrVe2A_rWlXPlSprlL8wk-IgHIa0hsmtrjn8Xpi9aT3IlNghjQmw9hYWjvH4lEQ5V1Q9vIfsJg-ZAJhd74cFZZEMVrDTgIfk6Sua4471vErcB/s320/DSCF2360.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking out to the Great Orme.</td></tr>
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The day after Tristan and I had a walk planned. We set off from Ogwen Cottage and went up along the ridge on the south side of Ogwen Valley, to get Y Garn and the Glyders in. As it seems be regular at the moment, the weather was mixed and the wind strong. Moving up on to Y Garn the wind stopped us dead for several minutes at a time, it was easier to brace and wait it out than to try and move. The section between Glyder Fawr and Fach always amazes me, it is like walking on the moon or an alien planet. There is no grass it is a large section of rocky (roughly one ft. by one ft.) blocks. As we moved up onto the top of Glyder Fach it started to snow, fairly heavily. Having crampons in the bag and knowing exactly where we were there were no worries. After about twenty minutes it stopped as quickly as it had started. All that was left was a decent to Llyn Bochlwyd via the east side of Bristly Ridge.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs1B9_SKQfBMsOx1OZPpGpXF4io3tus8APXluUMTO97g1rd6XiB11XLaIZxr4dPmiO3tQyQShE_c4DnC4mqQyUWRa7vconslCEnpIVFKDNXTbLK5KWQ9Fy4dYCKVwz1_xEEZ1cWN1ykHxZ/s1600/DSCF2388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs1B9_SKQfBMsOx1OZPpGpXF4io3tus8APXluUMTO97g1rd6XiB11XLaIZxr4dPmiO3tQyQShE_c4DnC4mqQyUWRa7vconslCEnpIVFKDNXTbLK5KWQ9Fy4dYCKVwz1_xEEZ1cWN1ykHxZ/s320/DSCF2388.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On top of Y Garn.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_41Jqgfs3_fLL6vcO3trgFsDpyBOVW6sgrnfzBGH53ykTpQRuJJmq0JDLSQiJVnPCyYpVm6wTJhKeZ48mWaLFncnXnIe5RfMbYSotDtx2wCXxaG3xoODhVrbFl5pMS3Lz-ONeu1tUM9jE/s1600/DSCF2399.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_41Jqgfs3_fLL6vcO3trgFsDpyBOVW6sgrnfzBGH53ykTpQRuJJmq0JDLSQiJVnPCyYpVm6wTJhKeZ48mWaLFncnXnIe5RfMbYSotDtx2wCXxaG3xoODhVrbFl5pMS3Lz-ONeu1tUM9jE/s320/DSCF2399.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up at Y Garn from Llyn y Cwn.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgakh3VfHq8XAxBl9NxNIBUcNcTwc5lYYvQr-2WZRfrr_hcqcj5teY75DvMthIek8IAyNM4A-sAF6JSj1vCcVeMF09GvCVuY9jhgeiDi4lp2ZsEtkJgqUOc_JNke6esQ1N7Lab7SJewnK4b/s1600/DSCF2405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgakh3VfHq8XAxBl9NxNIBUcNcTwc5lYYvQr-2WZRfrr_hcqcj5teY75DvMthIek8IAyNM4A-sAF6JSj1vCcVeMF09GvCVuY9jhgeiDi4lp2ZsEtkJgqUOc_JNke6esQ1N7Lab7SJewnK4b/s320/DSCF2405.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up the slope we go.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPuBRq0V7vAnaGKBNc3n1WQmWwzgWn7BOR-8OcOAnm_MZU-JhHDsLWAoQF3oekMpAyxldoxgoXVcfImU7axK0ZFhD-vMjd1VpJy5NWFjwI2QEWX4R9DXLjE9EIxmQONk0-PXmSl35XxVT/s1600/DSCF2420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPuBRq0V7vAnaGKBNc3n1WQmWwzgWn7BOR-8OcOAnm_MZU-JhHDsLWAoQF3oekMpAyxldoxgoXVcfImU7axK0ZFhD-vMjd1VpJy5NWFjwI2QEWX4R9DXLjE9EIxmQONk0-PXmSl35XxVT/s320/DSCF2420.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "moon" landscape on the top of the Glyders.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIQOQkt2l7MJzxgulw04XLbWjTtgmGFNGL0UygJa92AgbiY5ccnTio6lcF88_X34x_-qxCwYB1y-dKi3f97dpmOLs9UF-Z7HUp_7hJw4-MbAaFbz8cGaoPnH2RBH1rYLSmVwgHED2aHcBZ/s1600/DSCF2426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIQOQkt2l7MJzxgulw04XLbWjTtgmGFNGL0UygJa92AgbiY5ccnTio6lcF88_X34x_-qxCwYB1y-dKi3f97dpmOLs9UF-Z7HUp_7hJw4-MbAaFbz8cGaoPnH2RBH1rYLSmVwgHED2aHcBZ/s320/DSCF2426.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where did all this snow come from?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFtd9OJywxTjKReLy1Ux4NRTvQXvJCU_mma0tZjeho4gIDoiqed1zUvunERo0Hopmj9FkyXtd-SyCypNXb9-Mbi9OFIcM5FgAOYgajhZyHMN1TfmlyaZRC5sqDyTn29H9XLXJ-Nk9qb5ni/s1600/DSCF2436.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFtd9OJywxTjKReLy1Ux4NRTvQXvJCU_mma0tZjeho4gIDoiqed1zUvunERo0Hopmj9FkyXtd-SyCypNXb9-Mbi9OFIcM5FgAOYgajhZyHMN1TfmlyaZRC5sqDyTn29H9XLXJ-Nk9qb5ni/s320/DSCF2436.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking at the south ridge of Tryfan.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicX1jTAIqjw314z4-qi15lM7mqphyf6tfSjPi-7JGz9NAdqYQ-UDw0Skryu7KolKB4Qqss3j1P-q8_7QBQefB0p-I9gMP6uuDRT4Mx9giEPlDfbC23aByfQot6sWzTp4vrjpnUDUFupGSM/s1600/DSCF2446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicX1jTAIqjw314z4-qi15lM7mqphyf6tfSjPi-7JGz9NAdqYQ-UDw0Skryu7KolKB4Qqss3j1P-q8_7QBQefB0p-I9gMP6uuDRT4Mx9giEPlDfbC23aByfQot6sWzTp4vrjpnUDUFupGSM/s320/DSCF2446.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The south ridge of Tryfan.</td></tr>
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<br />
Recently I have been reading <i>Full of Myself</i>, by Johnny Dawes (thanks go to Pete who got it signed for me, a wonderful surprise) and <i>Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance</i>, by Robert Pirsig. They have certain connections within the concepts and ideas developed through the discussions on philosophy, overtly in <i>Zen…</i> and within other subjects in <i>Full…</i>, I recommend reading both. I’ll do a full review once I’ve finished both.<br />
<br />
In a couple of weeks I’m off home, the Transalp is going to have some work done. New front sections on the exhaust and an oil change will be the first tasks. Then a major clean to clear off all the dirt from winter and using farmers roads. For the second year I’ve used a trick that my friend Pete (different one) told me. Spray the whole bike in WD40. The bike will look more mucky because stuff sticks to the WD40 but when you wash the bike with warm soapy water and a sponge it will all come off straight away and will have protected the bike from all the road salt.<br />
<br />
Anyone wanting to get on the gritstone over Easter? <br />
<br />
Some videos:<br />
<a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2012/jan/01/johnny-dawes-climber-interview-video">Johnny Dawes interview on the Guardian Website</a><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/36732392">James Pearson in Northumberland</a><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/22990491">The Pou Brothers in the Alps</a><br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjWtcqPeZLw&feature=related">Motorbike adventure in Midwinter</a><br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-7b5l62f14&feature=fvwrel">The Secret Life of Bikers </a>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-9906820234599295932012-02-20T19:24:00.003+00:002012-02-20T19:50:31.286+00:00There are only three sports...<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;">‘There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor-racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.’ Ernest Hemingway.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;">Personally I would change the above quote to ‘there are only three sports: kayaking, motor-racing and mountaineering’, but the sentiment is all the same (Bullfighting is a horrible, disgusting event that should be eradicated from this planet). They have a risk factor that, even with modern equipment, is far greater than any other. Yet the gains from them, from personal experience and with discussion with others, are far greater than any other. You can truly find out who you are when you are on the edge; stuck in a stopper, the rear-wheel slipping, run out above the gear and fighting waist deep in snow through a blizzard. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;">Recently however I’ve not been capable of doing such things. But I’m getting there. I’ve been busy with getting up mountains and going climbing that spending time updating my blog has proved difficult, so I’ve only just got round to it.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;">Having gone running a few times my leg felt strong enough to try climbing and walking. My wrist, I thought I take it as it went. At night at Indy proved quickly that my wrist was strong enough to climb, I even managed to lead up the over-hanging head wall. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;">The next day with perfect weather resulted in a trip up Snowdon, up the Pyg Track and down the Miner’s path. The ground conditions amazing, powdery snow without the need of crampons. It was a great day. For Krystyna it was her first mountain day, I can’t think of a better introduction to the joys of hill days. For me it held interesting moments, it took a while for my confidence to develop again, in particular while making steps on the more steep snow. It is funny how the mind can play with your abilities to tackle obstacles that previously showed no difficulties, and still are no physical difficulty. Being buzzed on the top of Snowdon by a 22 Squadron rescue helicopter, with their winch men waving from the door really made our day. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3HvsaTMDUVWF0bjT4C8G4bozUtLu7t-CdUhYuv2XS7x5l0SB4MYJaFXDE2uZts5HRwZ7FHPEKJRvpLj2yu7bn1qoZvK9QPxN0UHiZmwCmdr63IkfymL1V8BUMVnhsSoS_tJCaSwe3fIpv/s1600/DSCF1992.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3HvsaTMDUVWF0bjT4C8G4bozUtLu7t-CdUhYuv2XS7x5l0SB4MYJaFXDE2uZts5HRwZ7FHPEKJRvpLj2yu7bn1qoZvK9QPxN0UHiZmwCmdr63IkfymL1V8BUMVnhsSoS_tJCaSwe3fIpv/s320/DSCF1992.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The view from Snowdon top onto Bwlch Ciliau.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNtzOTxvmOagYTeFjfajBYcItgcdmlb25zqyHYFrB5-PBXxWLxpW2EZHh7i1HK4Dqo1FcLjm2H_3VINg0OOl1SuLAU6rLc8xEvvdCoSBzDVBvoxo7nnbOj4pxArewUCqd0JNdsuRQU3ixm/s1600/DSCF2011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNtzOTxvmOagYTeFjfajBYcItgcdmlb25zqyHYFrB5-PBXxWLxpW2EZHh7i1HK4Dqo1FcLjm2H_3VINg0OOl1SuLAU6rLc8xEvvdCoSBzDVBvoxo7nnbOj4pxArewUCqd0JNdsuRQU3ixm/s320/DSCF2011.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The RAF Seaking Helicopter.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheD5aBS5xqHpB0c0CNK3wnyZaNITOBfrf5X-cKe3hGLAREhjUKfnsXhCsjTQ2_MXycYbP29UvpuoQaSl41CJ1UHV_hDEqRg2lRss8E7wrsX73Ivq1-pqvRlOu0KwPZFYH3lWuwnT7Vztq-/s1600/DSCF2072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheD5aBS5xqHpB0c0CNK3wnyZaNITOBfrf5X-cKe3hGLAREhjUKfnsXhCsjTQ2_MXycYbP29UvpuoQaSl41CJ1UHV_hDEqRg2lRss8E7wrsX73Ivq1-pqvRlOu0KwPZFYH3lWuwnT7Vztq-/s320/DSCF2072.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Us and Snowdon in the background.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjauCdkk2Sz3ttQqWMJbgRVpC_XcSgMtt0LxVS0qXPbrfzr1f8izdD5yW_-HjDwnYTGdHlC9mCVHjrchXppI4hFviRL-37Y-ki6o08KJQ8HG8EDf0vdOBPJgy13yApnQZ5eG76dFxoc42-y/s1600/DSCF2096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjauCdkk2Sz3ttQqWMJbgRVpC_XcSgMtt0LxVS0qXPbrfzr1f8izdD5yW_-HjDwnYTGdHlC9mCVHjrchXppI4hFviRL-37Y-ki6o08KJQ8HG8EDf0vdOBPJgy13yApnQZ5eG76dFxoc42-y/s320/DSCF2096.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The amazing Moon we saw that night, reflecting in Llyn Llydaw.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;">Buoyed by my day on Snowdon on that weekend I went up Tryfan with a group of friends. Although we were cold and in the cloud for most of the day it was a great day out. The scrambling on Tryfan is always fun and I don’t think I have ever taken the exact same route up ever. Coming off the top and bog-trotting back to the car was amusing.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3aBHhhIQ-pIe2VMjOgDuZRkKnd8G7oC0yvJq3u_934fGQM72hsAIe1s2my-wJqLp-Sxp3Du8wnHNJpK-5YU305MvndMLmudiHNLbZhdWctIFz20oGgobxLu34VV4A71fwOeLUUazAFH53/s1600/DSCF2111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3aBHhhIQ-pIe2VMjOgDuZRkKnd8G7oC0yvJq3u_934fGQM72hsAIe1s2my-wJqLp-Sxp3Du8wnHNJpK-5YU305MvndMLmudiHNLbZhdWctIFz20oGgobxLu34VV4A71fwOeLUUazAFH53/s320/DSCF2111.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The girls and James on 'The Cannon'</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxCEUWFzUwB6cTDOH4Xwf8BzyzVS8484IOF6Gl2TPdaVUqjs9i_aNUTLBhp8VeDiLYC7-M2Q8WC9FXuOrtMfwlFH4C1oCd-HbQyrqB7zRJx-aylwhzOXx-KWhf08JrUL9Rlp66sGe5GhBO/s1600/DSCF2123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxCEUWFzUwB6cTDOH4Xwf8BzyzVS8484IOF6Gl2TPdaVUqjs9i_aNUTLBhp8VeDiLYC7-M2Q8WC9FXuOrtMfwlFH4C1oCd-HbQyrqB7zRJx-aylwhzOXx-KWhf08JrUL9Rlp66sGe5GhBO/s320/DSCF2123.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me on 'The Cannon'</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwbLAVHUd9Eno3ToQYDlzHRozJhkXUNneKuo6MIVAE1Q9AI6QJZ2BdupyfbMHJTIe2IkMpwI5doOdPIg_fu5EmHEG6KNSWoJT2c1FupQQH9Aq5TIR34B7UhGFXfd5pz-phE-li0cocT4B/s1600/DSCF2141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwbLAVHUd9Eno3ToQYDlzHRozJhkXUNneKuo6MIVAE1Q9AI6QJZ2BdupyfbMHJTIe2IkMpwI5doOdPIg_fu5EmHEG6KNSWoJT2c1FupQQH9Aq5TIR34B7UhGFXfd5pz-phE-li0cocT4B/s320/DSCF2141.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The girls and James on the way down, post-bog-trotting.</span></td></tr>
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;">Last Tuesday was a trip with BUMS to Beacon climbing centre. I easily managed to get up several F6a’s, a few F6b’s and tried and failed on a F6b+. I’m still wary of over doing it, causing further injury and delays. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;">Wednesday was a cold, wet and incredibly windy day. Setting off with Jack and Ellie we headed up from Bethesda to Carnedd Dafydd to Carnedd Llywelyn then down into the cwm at the base of the Black Ladders. The wind was really strong, it required that you lent into it to walk. In conditions like that, were you can’t feel your hands, the rain is freezing and you can’t see more than twenty metres due to being in the cloud, it tests your metal and you come away feeling better, the challenge met and defeated. Everything is in perspective again.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;">For Jack it was a sentimental day, the two year anniversary of the death of a friend in who died mountaineering in Scotland. </span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyPZitxqhynsJUZaAQT8UvoRQlNKugzbS3x0QhjuY6_TKB7nk94gThNegt-UlyG0Xoi8lW51cBNa_bjd-KR4Z2g3Eh0vsM_klnxceldcTVVMGvFPYHnafedpWyt49o83VOSnI3vMTr8N6P/s1600/DSCF2171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyPZitxqhynsJUZaAQT8UvoRQlNKugzbS3x0QhjuY6_TKB7nk94gThNegt-UlyG0Xoi8lW51cBNa_bjd-KR4Z2g3Eh0vsM_klnxceldcTVVMGvFPYHnafedpWyt49o83VOSnI3vMTr8N6P/s320/DSCF2171.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">On the top of Carnedd Dafydd all kitted up.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdz73RkJMUuqHBznlNIF2EPo2mIQItGF4AqqwjID7YbTMMz1YqOWL412YnV2qxLK-svNcNUe62eFm5vCxBkVIRDVPHOcLJqSU7tF-kjXgeT9an2g37qS1fYHJVCxoku2N47-fNfOcaA0al/s1600/DSCF2174.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdz73RkJMUuqHBznlNIF2EPo2mIQItGF4AqqwjID7YbTMMz1YqOWL412YnV2qxLK-svNcNUe62eFm5vCxBkVIRDVPHOcLJqSU7tF-kjXgeT9an2g37qS1fYHJVCxoku2N47-fNfOcaA0al/s320/DSCF2174.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ellie bracing in the wind.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu34Sbx_vHqYp4bkhrCKgEqrt_BBl6akC_r_2B5hz8Sh7OwC0lSomnQxFDCcBXX-9KF6pCUyqgJQiop6pGIAPF07plL_I9JO6VlUrzfuoLK05ZNqcWdYRGzWG8qI19tLlUWg6rNwDu0YQw/s1600/DSCF2176.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu34Sbx_vHqYp4bkhrCKgEqrt_BBl6akC_r_2B5hz8Sh7OwC0lSomnQxFDCcBXX-9KF6pCUyqgJQiop6pGIAPF07plL_I9JO6VlUrzfuoLK05ZNqcWdYRGzWG8qI19tLlUWg6rNwDu0YQw/s320/DSCF2176.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">'Look I can fly!'</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF9Qz_zDfBiZKufOLGPn0Jnv4_UMhAhcxbi_ZZ1KZ48EtKz24qSXmuzp5Otg4N0888efzDPLRnGsf0FVQPkcuK2iBJ0IbU8xZyl7WtOwLMihmQYwoltFtWhHy0Pt8CmqzKwrh4A5Euao4t/s1600/DSCF2202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF9Qz_zDfBiZKufOLGPn0Jnv4_UMhAhcxbi_ZZ1KZ48EtKz24qSXmuzp5Otg4N0888efzDPLRnGsf0FVQPkcuK2iBJ0IbU8xZyl7WtOwLMihmQYwoltFtWhHy0Pt8CmqzKwrh4A5Euao4t/s320/DSCF2202.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me being a Berghaus advert.</span></td></tr>
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</span></div><h1 style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Saturday was cold. We went to Llanddulas Cave. I got hailed on half way up a route. It still isn’t really warm enough to go climbing yet, particularly if you’re not in the sunshine. The local pub (The Valentine) there however was great, a coal fire and London Pride on tap. </span></h1><h1 style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Sunday was the BUMS indoor boulder competition at Indy. Mikey Kenyon and Meg White won. A good time was had by all who took part. Thanks to Indy for hosting and route setting. Some great and challenging problems were put up. </span></h1><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;">Motorbiking has started again. Getting back into the swing of things I’ve gone on some short but fairly difficult routes. A particularly good one is the roads around Bronydd Isaf (OL17: 627 704). It is a set of farmer’s roads with grass growing in the middle of the road. I’m struggling to go faster than thirty and feel as if I’m completely in control. Hopefully my throttle and general bike skills will improve with the more challenging driving. I’m looking at doing some routes around the Dolgarrog area. Anybody know of good-green lanes in North Wales?</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;">To conclude on a quote ‘Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go.’ T.S. Elliot.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-size: small;">Some film clips:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://threesixfive.tv/driving-on-mountain-top/">Some cool and dangerous motorbike riding.</a> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://threesixfive.tv/eisprinz-chapter-one/">Maybe I need to train harder?</a></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: small;"><a href="http://vimeo.com/34482694"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A really nice climbing/lifestyle film: 'A Desert Li</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">fe'. </span></a></span></div></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://vimeo.com/32953907">Cedar Wright in Malaysia: Part I</a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://vimeo.com/33888820">Cedar Wright in Malaysia: Part II</a></span></div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-76853437958841208432012-01-24T14:00:00.000+00:002012-01-24T14:00:02.644+00:00Racing, Running and Reviews.<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:DocumentProperties> <o:Version>14.00</o:Version> </o:DocumentProperties> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<div class="MsoNormal">The dates for the various motor-racing events have been released. Of major interest to me is the <a href="http://www.motogp.com/">Moto GP</a> (Silverstone, 15<sup>th</sup>-17<sup>th</sup> June), <a href="http://www.britishsuperbike.com/">British Super Bikes</a> (All year, but I’m planning on visiting: Oulton Park, 5<sup>th</sup>-7<sup>th</sup> May/6<sup>th</sup>-8<sup>th</sup> July, Donington Park, 7-9 September) and the <a href="http://www.iomtt.com/">Isle of Man TT</a> (provisional dates: 28<sup>th</sup> May-8<sup>th</sup> June). For more dates and locations see the websites. </div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal">The Dakar Rally is now over, with French man Cyril Despres on the KTM winning the Bike category. A summary of the best bike action is available <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljkeNZPRYDU&feature=player_embedded">here</a>. </div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljkeNZPRYDU&feature=player_embedded"></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><i>TT: Closer to the Edge</i> came out last year and last week I got round to buying and watching it. Two words; amazingly quick. Whether you like the TT or bike racing at all is not really important. It is a tale of a group of people seeking something past the ordinary and ordain in life. Although it is a documentary, it is a well-edited, fast-paced, person-orientated film rather than the typical moribund T.V. shows. The on-board camera shots are unbelievable, watching the bikes hit over 170 mph on the tiny country roads sends adrenaline shooting through your body. It is the stories of the riders and their families that really make the film, in particular those of the Dunlop family, Guy Martin and the Dobbs family. Some of the quotes Guy Martin comes out with are hilarious and down-right honest opinions, e.g. ‘Some lads love going to the pub, some lads love shagging. I don’t mind it but I’m not into it. Different things make different people happy, don’t they’. Anyone who likes adrenaline fixes will be able to relate to it. As the tag-line says ‘Just because you’re breathing doesn’t mean you’re alive’! </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QldZiR9eQ_0&feature=fvst">Here is the trailer</a>. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal">As I’m doing a series of reviews I’ve got some biking jeans, <a href="http://www.richa.eu/products/leather-textile-trousers/kevlar-jeans/">Richa Kevlar Jeans</a>. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>I’ve owned them for about a year and a half, taken no spills on them. As jeans go they look the part, have a good cut (slightly different to normal jeans), proper denim, can be worn on a night-out and are tough as old boots. The cut around the knees may look a bit strange, that is because on the inside they have insert sections for knee pads. Also on the inside are large sections of Kevlar fabric, round the backside, down the back of the legs and around the knee, prime areas to get hurt as you slide down the road. They take a bit to get wet and I’m sure if you treated them with Nikwax or the like they would be fairly water-resistant. For sitting on the bike they feel comfortable for all day riding and are much nicer if you are going in to town than your full leathers. A couple of downsides are flexibility is very limited for non-biking movements, they take even longer than normal jeans to dry and in midsummer when not travelling at 60mph they can get very warm. Overall I’d highly recommend them to any biker, and unlike those jeans you got from G-star (or some rubbish brand) they won’t fall apart after two washes.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I had the cast off and then replaced last week. It is now neon yellow. My thumb was given the all ok and I’m getting it moving again, as it had been immobilised for five weeks. Still cannot ride the push-bike though, my arm sticks out at a funny angle and grabbing a handful of the back break is not going to happen. The cast comes off around the end of the month, then a few weeks will be needed to get it back to working strength.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I’m now able to run, finally. It is a great feeling that I can now be building my strength back up. Distance and speed is getting there. My knee is no longer buckling if I misstep which proved amusing to everyone else as I went down the road. It is funny how things you take for granted when taken away from you become suddenly really important to get back. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">In the vain hope that this was useful, thanks for reading. </div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-53787091434145472172012-01-07T16:06:00.000+00:002012-01-07T16:06:19.652+00:00Why Adventure? (and some videos).<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:DocumentProperties> <o:Version>14.00</o:Version> </o:DocumentProperties> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<div class="MsoNormal">As this healing process has been going on I’ve had a few introspective moments. The close call with being a dead body and evening news story brings a different perspective, and more importantly I’ve found a serious mental questioning on ‘is what I do and enjoy worth it?’. Personally the answer has been a strong and definitive ‘Yes!’. Yet my assumption that if I die or severely damage myself doing something I love, be it on a cliff, mountain-top or on the motorbike, that it would be fine has been brought to the fore and been found wanting (it is not a fear of dying, but one of missing out on all the stuff I could have done before dying). Now how this effects my mental attitude when I’m physically fit is something to find out. Maybe physically hard but relatively safe adventures will be the route I take. Whatever route I take I will do it because I enjoy it and the challenge it presents. It would be interesting to hear from people who have had similar experiences to hear how they mentally organised themselves after such events. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">There is a new(ish) article on the Bangor University Website: <a href="http://www.bangor.ac.uk/news/full.php.en?nid=6308&tnid=6308">http://www.bangor.ac.uk/news/full.php.en?nid=6308&tnid=6308</a>. It discusses the psychological reasons for people to seek adventure (I’m sure there is a more comprehensive paper somewhere). It seems that we seek adventure for a heightened emotional response and that adventure allows us to take control of an aspect of our lives. Seems interesting. I think that we all struggle to truly know why we place ourselves in positions of danger, is it just the adrenaline kick or is there more to it. </div><div class="MsoNormal">Many climbers, mountaineers and explorers have tried to answer the question of “why?”. Mallory’s succinct ‘Because it’s there’ doesn’t really answer it. I believe it is a very personal matter that needs to be addressed individually, if you work out why you are doing something you perform and enjoy the activity much more. Which aspects of your own adventures do you get most from? Focusing on those aspects helps improve the overall outcome. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The Dakar Rally, heard of it? You should have. One of the most gruelling races on the planet, man and machine are tested to their limits. Desert racing at its zenith. And the best bit is that it is on at the moment.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Here is the official website: <a href="http://www.dakar.com/index_DAKus.html">http://www.dakar.com/index_DAKus.html</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal">The route, even without racing, looks amazing. Watching it makes me want to just get out on my motorbike and go for a spin on a dirt road (which obviously can’t happen at the moment). </div><div class="MsoNormal">My Transalp is based on Honda’s racing bikes for this back in the late 80’s/early 90’s. No wonder it feels indestructible. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span>I'm going to get (and read) <a href="http://www.johnnydawes.com/buy-stuff/full-of-myself/"><i>Full of Myself</i> by Jonny Dawes</a>. I'll let you know what it is like.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Now a load of videos to get you psyched. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://threesixfive.eu/rock/2011/12/the-nose-on-el-capitan/">The Nose, El Cap</a>. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ovr55k6evE">Mixed Climbing Avalanche Accident</a> (was buzzing round UKC a few weeks ago). </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6P_571xJRI&feature=BFa&list=PL5B17BFFF3D77C155&lf=results_main">A load of the Dakar Racing clips</a>. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="long-title"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frebysJuv3Y">Gasherbrum II, first winter ascent</a>. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://vimeo.com/15610382">The Real Big Drip (M7 WI 6), Canadian Rockies</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://vimeo.com/16248492">Sonnie Trotter on Lake of Fire (5.13c R), Squamish, Canada</a>. </div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-10035928761442352372012-01-02T16:52:00.000+00:002012-01-02T16:52:39.275+00:00New Year, Similar Targets.<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:DocumentProperties> <o:Version>14.00</o:Version> </o:DocumentProperties> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<div class="MsoNormal">Another year has gone by, one that personally was exciting and full of amazing experiences (and I hope your year was as well). Some key highlights include: My first Gogarth trip (Britomartis, HVS 4c) and subsequent visits, my first limestone E2 (It, E2 5b), buying and tazzing around on my Transalp, my first slate E3 (Goose Creature, E3 6a), crapping myself (not literally) on Superdirect (E1 5b) with Gwen and doing Pull My Daisy (E2 5c). Also completing my first year at Uni and managing to survive my recent epic stand out (although my fall wasn't really a highlight!). </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Some targets for the new year: Climbing: Comes the Dervish (E3 5c), Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird (E2 5b), Samurai (E2 5c), The Sloth (HVS 5a), A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c). Walking: Summer version of the route we were doing when I fell, The Pennine Way, Scarfell Pike, Ben Nevis, Cadir Idris, Welsh 3000’s. Motorbiking: A Scotland trip, a Lakes trip and save up for kitting the Transalp up for off roading.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I’m still out of action, my hand is going to take some serious work to rebuild its strength (hopefully this will force my climbing footwork to improve and better, smoother gear changes on the motorbike). My knee is now able to bend completely, it has taken time and quite a bit of painful stretching to achieve it though. I still can’t step down stairs with it, I kind of mentally line my right foot up to catch me, then step down and move quickly as my left knee buckles. It can be quite hairy doing this so I wait till I’m almost at the bottom of the stairs before trying. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">My best advice is don’t fall/slip, the recovery process is a real frustration. But if you must bash yourself up; stay focused, positive and just keep working at it. Recovery does and will happen. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Currently, as I can’t do anything useful/fun/scary I’m reading a lot. Nothing wrong with being well read, in fact I normally pack a book in my backpack when I’m out for a few days to pass the time after tea and before bed. Therefore the next few blogs will probably be reviews of adventure literature and films. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Here is one review to get you started.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">In September I bought <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Unjustifiable Risk?: The Story of British Climbing </i>by Simon Thompson. It is a quite fascinating read that I have recently finished. It brings together various aspects of history, social commentary, politics and biographies to present an overview (although it is possible the title should be changed to ‘an introduction to the story of British climbing’) of the history of climbing (in all its aspects). It not only covers the British Isles but has an international perspective of the role of British climbers in the development of our “games”. It covers a time period of circa 1800 to modern day. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is interesting how the change and development of gear and attitudes to it have played an important role to the climbing we are involved in. Thompson makes you wish to be involved with the tales he discusses (apart from, personally, the deadly accidents that have occurred pursuing those lofty peaks). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Overall I highly recommend the book. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">A few other titles I recommend reading or watching are:<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"></span></span></div><ul><li><span style="font-family: Symbol;"><span><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"></span></span></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Ascent of Everest</i> by John Hunt.<span style="font-family: Symbol;"><span> </span></span></li>
<li><i><span style="font-family: Symbol;"><span>C</span></span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">limbing: Because it's There (Philosophy for Everyone)</i> by <span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Stephen E. Schmid (ed.).</span><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"></span></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i></li>
<li><i>Long Way Round</i> with Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>T.V Series<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">. </i></li>
<li><i>First Ascent Series Boxed Set </i>by Sender Films.</li>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">So, happy New Year to everyone. Get psyched, get out there. Enjoy the mountains.</div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-75260697355902234842011-12-17T22:33:00.001+00:002011-12-18T09:27:20.174+00:00Tumble and Fall.<div style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: small;">This blog is not the one I had planned to type. I had been thinking that I would be telling you about a three day winter walk in Snowdonia, however the actual events are never exactly to plan.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: small;">The weekend before (3/4.12.11) was the BUMS Christmas meal on the Saturday, a good evening with friends, then Sunday was a trip to Parisella’s Cave on the Orme. The Parisella’s trip was cold and just avoiding the rain that was coming down all over North Wales. It primarily involved standing in a down jacket psyching myself up to have another go and to take the jacket off.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkEhBmmbKaPJ6K7UTAt20UnzQTS8zFzG-9SuNSdqEalT959vZogEWdcQUqjBYPGGQPktfABGd9iYg6xlKNyKETTzVWYe0IuD4RpmxDK14mAaxsS1rJcG4vPlVPi3yyTcVc9kHlLYvQhHOb/s1600/DSCF1587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkEhBmmbKaPJ6K7UTAt20UnzQTS8zFzG-9SuNSdqEalT959vZogEWdcQUqjBYPGGQPktfABGd9iYg6xlKNyKETTzVWYe0IuD4RpmxDK14mAaxsS1rJcG4vPlVPi3yyTcVc9kHlLYvQhHOb/s320/DSCF1587.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pete Wanless in the cave.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv4n_RNukKYtq0APjJQ7sGcAutDIBNA2euo_rS-Sun2iYF0VYOPlDFy-LDvt3UEuIPxwcPc-8uvkc0D6XrqCPgjdjVi03oBQqY5LlvXHDiXhqXahqvqh4iSVBEYqdZGnr1pGfeawMlnyUu/s1600/DSCF1589.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv4n_RNukKYtq0APjJQ7sGcAutDIBNA2euo_rS-Sun2iYF0VYOPlDFy-LDvt3UEuIPxwcPc-8uvkc0D6XrqCPgjdjVi03oBQqY5LlvXHDiXhqXahqvqh4iSVBEYqdZGnr1pGfeawMlnyUu/s320/DSCF1589.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pete Globe in the cave.</span></td></tr>
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</span></div><div style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: small;">I’d been talking to my friend Tristan about going on a walk and we decided on the next weekend (9-11.12.11) to go into Snowdonia, baging various peaks (inc. the Carneddu, Tryfan, Crib Goch and Snowdon) over the three days and to have a “play” in the snow. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Shopping and packing was done on the Thursday night, tent, crampons, ice axe etc. were in the bag (along with six malt loaves each for lunches). Friday morning involved me finishing an essay and we were off. </span></span></div><div style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">Setting off from Bethesda, the plan was to walk to the base of the Black Ladders at the Carneddu, turn left top out on Carnedd Llewelyn, then go roughly north-east to the bothy at Llyn Dulyn. </span></span></h3><div style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">The walk to base of the Black Ladders is easy (and surprisingly warm) but with great views as these black, gigantic cliffs come into view and patches of snow and ice start appearing. It is some of the most foreboding scenery I’ve looked at. We turned to go up Carnedd Llewelyn, finding the aeroplane parts (the remains of a WWII bomber that crashed with the loss of all the crew) and almost magically frozen plants next to the stream. </span></span></h3><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #cccccc; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9kMHa8uLV1xeQXzIVkfoLLhRvyAdFveDRUuX_AnL7eOMzoIwIPoZs7mYFah83Wvd18ehtK6b58hRw_NLdZfw17_W2Fh3D-_bZjWM2INfcsziYK6wkKkuAfKKLB599WDTTftlVAXC17xWX/s1600/DSCF1593.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9kMHa8uLV1xeQXzIVkfoLLhRvyAdFveDRUuX_AnL7eOMzoIwIPoZs7mYFah83Wvd18ehtK6b58hRw_NLdZfw17_W2Fh3D-_bZjWM2INfcsziYK6wkKkuAfKKLB599WDTTftlVAXC17xWX/s320/DSCF1593.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking up at the Black Ladders.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFU_gCkOUlWYYRhPV35QF0qIABTMvQYyVig8JizJIGn33U0TZm0r8Y5vTo5Xqq0oAE7N5HwKXnd9Tgq_bAEl75la3SFbIHv4qPQKvXBhCzWPtEJ1k7X_uU19oNizQL5WiP_MJoUQgEIGjh/s1600/DSCF1599.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFU_gCkOUlWYYRhPV35QF0qIABTMvQYyVig8JizJIGn33U0TZm0r8Y5vTo5Xqq0oAE7N5HwKXnd9Tgq_bAEl75la3SFbIHv4qPQKvXBhCzWPtEJ1k7X_uU19oNizQL5WiP_MJoUQgEIGjh/s320/DSCF1599.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Black Ladders area.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0b4TmwLswNqji3RVR20qii07wpWZ8ikQyNg6MYkhtGXDCtsnSXUu7NMsULX1j3NNuVs4wBJRuC54QQc6EnvqVvDoXPV4KjuOhA09Vw2xO9tWP7yN4tyxTnf8f5JgSTpVqXyDiDTArHQBC/s1600/DSCF1601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0b4TmwLswNqji3RVR20qii07wpWZ8ikQyNg6MYkhtGXDCtsnSXUu7NMsULX1j3NNuVs4wBJRuC54QQc6EnvqVvDoXPV4KjuOhA09Vw2xO9tWP7yN4tyxTnf8f5JgSTpVqXyDiDTArHQBC/s320/DSCF1601.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The crashed aeroplane.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg28hxvf4qFZ-DGr8caBeySD5ztqjsga4_4P72TuxBjBvjhIOiEJszRs7sFRMngtfkn2dec5ZxRQkiM8P7JjkcWis97byn4ZmujPKaeBSgdWlXuuHlWv-nizfBCID-AtlqipSAkoOt05dF7/s1600/DSCF1602.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg28hxvf4qFZ-DGr8caBeySD5ztqjsga4_4P72TuxBjBvjhIOiEJszRs7sFRMngtfkn2dec5ZxRQkiM8P7JjkcWis97byn4ZmujPKaeBSgdWlXuuHlWv-nizfBCID-AtlqipSAkoOt05dF7/s320/DSCF1602.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The frozen plants.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></h3><div style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">We then topped out on Llewelyn, time for full winter kit was the decision. It was freezing, you couldn’t have your gloves off for more than five minutes if you still wanted to be able to feel your fingers. With ice axe out, crampons on and goggles on it was time to descend and reach the bothy. Although the sun had gone down about half an hour ago the moon was bright and visibility good. Nevertheless my head torch came out, I needed to navigate. Tristan, psyched, followed me into the darkness. </span></span></h3><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #cccccc; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFGWlJTChfmsHYz32_thwbn1dKGrBEGhV_p7ZymHviiZLg-JqqpEJ_qW5eiiArOep-eoGihGsujo4VIvJX2IWCNWChuTlCLpdiFwT1GKcKCL8QzHzgL9Gqx0ir3uKF66vWRWBHZQKeOiu/s1600/DSCF1604.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFGWlJTChfmsHYz32_thwbn1dKGrBEGhV_p7ZymHviiZLg-JqqpEJ_qW5eiiArOep-eoGihGsujo4VIvJX2IWCNWChuTlCLpdiFwT1GKcKCL8QzHzgL9Gqx0ir3uKF66vWRWBHZQKeOiu/s320/DSCF1604.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tristan in winter gear.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH0IBzzcVoI8zyhXveAVX5Y-PpIjYM_EGdXighXvxB9rOh3Qofp2ar4Oj-QIPoaxDlZgZHx27RRQiW9M2ag7MT_IONbj3qjRP6iH4SX_xlN3G9YqLh3L0HtWkr3i5mcYar3BBjESnTvqBo/s1600/DSCF1605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH0IBzzcVoI8zyhXveAVX5Y-PpIjYM_EGdXighXvxB9rOh3Qofp2ar4Oj-QIPoaxDlZgZHx27RRQiW9M2ag7MT_IONbj3qjRP6iH4SX_xlN3G9YqLh3L0HtWkr3i5mcYar3BBjESnTvqBo/s320/DSCF1605.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me in winter gear.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"> </span></h3><div style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">Knowing that there are dangerous cliffs around Llyn Dulyn I made the decision to descend early to ensure our safety. We started down a snow gully (roughly grade I possibly pushing to II in places), with fantastic thaw-freeze snow, the crampons were biting brilliantly. Tristan was above me with his mega-bright head torch, I was cutting the trail. </span></span></h3><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #cccccc; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLLi5Nk9JB-6_HUY1-7L3lGwHClce_0NLh-A3QvfbpmLQa-M0gRQ8k69-UW7Wb6PBE8I22KZs6EpLYtOZWHF7GkRf8Ra2h_08q1FvVd5rIiP9UUiInNfDNRcXsrWFOUJQufH1n8nAdIJ-n/s1600/DSCF1608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLLi5Nk9JB-6_HUY1-7L3lGwHClce_0NLh-A3QvfbpmLQa-M0gRQ8k69-UW7Wb6PBE8I22KZs6EpLYtOZWHF7GkRf8Ra2h_08q1FvVd5rIiP9UUiInNfDNRcXsrWFOUJQufH1n8nAdIJ-n/s320/DSCF1608.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tristan up there.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"> </span></h3><div style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">Then, about halfway down, I started sliding. I still don’t know what caused it (all I can think is that I didn’t have a crampon in correctly and stepped down). This wasn’t in the game plan. I grabbed my axe in both hands and rolled into an ice axe arrest. The axe ripped out of my hands and I was tumbling, my head torch ripped off, now I was tumbling in the dark. Up, down, left, right suddenly became meaningless, all I could think was ‘any second now I’m going to feel a smack on my head and it is going to all go dark’. Those thoughts were strangely disassociated from my body, I don’t remember being scared just pissed off that this was it. I didn’t want to die, especially now, I’ve had got/still have got too much to do. </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">I came to a stop, I don’t know how or why but I stopped. A wave of relief spread though me. A quick check, no broken legs/arms; good, left hand hurts; not good, there is lots of blood; not good. My forehead was bleeding and my left knee was sore. Looking up, I saw my head torch falling down the slope (minus the head band). I grabbed it and started yelling to Tristan. ‘I’m Alive!’, ‘Arrgghh, my hand/leg/head’, ‘Oh, F***’ and ‘S***’ were what I remember shouting. (Tristan says I also shouted ‘Hurry Up’, what a stupid thing to say to him after disappearing into the gloom. Good job he took his time, two casualties would have been a nightmare). Whilst talking once we were off the mountainside, I found out that Tristan reckoned I’d tumbled for about thirty metres. </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">Tristan had found my axe, planted in the ice, pick completely buried. It would have held me if I’d have managed to hold on (another reason to get stronger). He joined me, did a quick first aid check, and then we had to move. We had no signal, I was bleeding, we were in the cold and sitting on snow, not a place to stop.</span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">I slid on my backside down the rest of the slope, with the angle easing every few metres, using a combination of ice axe and crampon spikes on my heels. We then started walking. I’m not entirely sure of our route, shock, adrenaline and head wounds don’t make navigating easy. I recognised the cliffs and outline of the mountains in front of us we were in Cwm Eigiau, as kind of planned. I knew there was a farmer’s 4X4 track near the base and the path eventually led to Dolgarrog. </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">About thirty minutes later we got some signal. Tristan called 999, asked for the Police then Mountain Rescue (the correct way to get help in the mountains). We got off our names, injuries but not our location before we lost signal. Our only option was to keep walking, to find the path, to get signal again. </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">After around four miles walking we had signal, we were about half way down Llyn Eigiau. The cavalry arrived, the yellow bird of hope, the Squadron 22 RAF Sea-king Helicopter. Waving it in with the head torches, it landed. I was determined to walk onto it, I’d already made it off the mountain, another hundred metres was going to be fine and a stretcher was not an option. Within minutes I was at Ysbyty Gwynedd, A and E awaited. </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">The fantastic skill of the staff in all the departments I visited cannot expressed in words. They were extraordinary. Once my clothes were off, I was x-rayed. Luckily I’d only broken my thumb and wrist on my left hand. My knee and face required stitches. </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"><b>WARNING: GORY PICTURES!</b></span></h3><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="color: #cccccc; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd32fZWNbN7YMfg-aE816ROf-Ql4j37aulw8VaKRzlg4HW0A54wcjz5zVzDznaRzZNNsHah1b3miVFw1GPXQnCHBrJkMmh4GF39hISzqRy50zqDNHEemQLd2SXDL1l79yI-V01kz4uBuUK/s1600/DSCF1610.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd32fZWNbN7YMfg-aE816ROf-Ql4j37aulw8VaKRzlg4HW0A54wcjz5zVzDznaRzZNNsHah1b3miVFw1GPXQnCHBrJkMmh4GF39hISzqRy50zqDNHEemQLd2SXDL1l79yI-V01kz4uBuUK/s320/DSCF1610.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">My face.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Broken Wrist and Thumb.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbH3V7r8masMe63h_2oF_evDNqicsJuy9WvBJQoqZHsrZMVXiwzdc1AuGinYe3MTNefrRS741ikWfvYODj12F5shtbgKV6Q5KcosIU1njFw08GeVqaUfHvlrk0_vpt7gR-rwLfTFBLHJEZ/s1600/DSCF1613.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbH3V7r8masMe63h_2oF_evDNqicsJuy9WvBJQoqZHsrZMVXiwzdc1AuGinYe3MTNefrRS741ikWfvYODj12F5shtbgKV6Q5KcosIU1njFw08GeVqaUfHvlrk0_vpt7gR-rwLfTFBLHJEZ/s320/DSCF1613.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">In the ward.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"><b> </b> </span></h3><div style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">After a weekend of being stitched up, plastered and forcing bits of my body to work I went back to my uni home. It had been a long weekend and certainly not the one I’d planned. Maybe I’ll get the route done next year. I’ll certainly be doing it in the summer.</span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">My thanks go out to Tristan; for saving my ass, Hannah; for visits and deliveries at all times of day, James; for bringing me home, all those other visitors and well-wishers; for making it a much easier time, Llanberis and Ogwen Mountain Rescue crews; for looking for us, Squadron 22; for collecting us, and the great staff at Ysbyty Gwynedd (especially those in A and E and on Conwy Ward); for putting up with me and patching me up again. Thank you so much. I’m in your debt.</span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">Now comes the recovery phase. I’ve got about eight weeks out, minimum. I’m going to get focused, plan a training schedule, build my core strength and generally work on keeping psyched. Anybody want a belayer? Single Pitch only, easy access, must provide a gri-gri, and be prepared for lots of moaning. </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">Here are the links to Owgen and Llanberis mountain rescue websites:</span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.ogwen-rescue.org.uk/">Owgen</a></span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.llanberismountainrescue.co.uk/English/LLMRT%20HomePage.html">Llanberis</a></span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">If you, or anyone close to you ever might need their services please donate, they are voluntary organisations with determined and dedicated crews. They do a fantastic job in the worst conditions.</span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">In other news:</span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">Here is an amazing <a href="http://vimeo.com/30899616">video</a>, it is currently on the home page of UKC, of two friends climbing regardless of disability. The determination that Paul Prichard shows is incredible, it just serves to show what can be done if you want something enough. </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">Christopher Hitchens has died. Although I may not have agreed with all his stances, in particular his weird view of the political arena, he was a great man standing against the religious nonsense that is spouted out by so many of those people in powerful positions. </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">Dave MacLeod is being a beast again: <a href="http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/">http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/</a>. </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">And for some more music:</span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">Here is a song that kept going through my head in hospital: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIjkW6iyXNo">Bob Marley: Three Little Birds.</a> </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_Us84hcarY">Feeder: Tumble and Fall.</a></span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGMabBGydC0">Rusted Root: Send Me On My Way.</a> (Made famous in the film Matilda, and later Ice Age) </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCn8m99sTpc&feature=related">Thin Lizzy: Dedication. </a></span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;"> </span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">The next few blogs hopefully will have some cool adventure stories rather than how I stupidly slipped and battered myself.</span></span></h3><h3 style="color: #cccccc; margin: 0cm 0cm 7.5pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">Thanks for reading.</span></span></h3>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-59525205330198708372011-12-01T13:52:00.001+00:002011-12-01T13:53:59.055+00:00Trad at Tremadog (and some motorbike stuff)<div class="MsoNormal">After what had been a wet week and a rainy night Sunday was proved to be a sunny, warm day. BUMS headed out to Tremadog, parking at Eric’s Café (I’d gone on the motorbike) we set off for a day on the rocks.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I partnered up with Ellie. We first looked at Grim Wall area but it was running with water. Passing the guide book to Ellie, she picked a route called Scratch (VS 4c). The only problem was that it is at the other end of the crag (Craig Pant Ifan) and a long scramble up, so by the time we were ready to climb to it was about midday. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Scratch is a two-pitch route. The first pitch led by Ellie, is a bit dull but with fairly sparse gear. The second is fantastic: A long corner crack climb, followed by a rightwards traverse, then another jamming crack to the top. We abseiled off, almost sixty metres to the floor.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYX7jIy7WG4-JyYO3Bom7NcZ5MrWWq9MvJC19h4f6wJiC78q1AmN3AnFJR_5QwJXdwVtBNRklxexy0dhDbohmNHlkAk7h7RIbrvrF42okB9VcwfbsCXWNFDV0Fx7EPFBOtSaeg7mYsVKEj/s1600/DSCF1556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYX7jIy7WG4-JyYO3Bom7NcZ5MrWWq9MvJC19h4f6wJiC78q1AmN3AnFJR_5QwJXdwVtBNRklxexy0dhDbohmNHlkAk7h7RIbrvrF42okB9VcwfbsCXWNFDV0Fx7EPFBOtSaeg7mYsVKEj/s320/DSCF1556.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ellie leading up the first pitch of Scratch (VS 4c).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyKUJtRqBjr11_KXZcOTIwisws3MoPR-B8C687ev8W-grmOlbngawys2ALxYMQNfFnauHr9tFvT58w98G6w7xSqug3hCSaynbdu6xLViaRFF8vtzNmaz-sVTYoUYYCbSm_4Yhz0tFMYk77/s1600/DSCF1561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyKUJtRqBjr11_KXZcOTIwisws3MoPR-B8C687ev8W-grmOlbngawys2ALxYMQNfFnauHr9tFvT58w98G6w7xSqug3hCSaynbdu6xLViaRFF8vtzNmaz-sVTYoUYYCbSm_4Yhz0tFMYk77/s320/DSCF1561.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down Scratch from the top (Ellie is at the Belay).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIKdbiHhedsKLLx80b_Dn1DN047b2qVs7nbFasSeXH1nOxQ8rnyfMpnYkSSIq9mO5bqlIB8y2KxsGSK-_cpO62-c3s4-KDWm_xZdKgUh8xDqWARNYeuS1WKW0RwTiMcA1OAxCKvz7rDq2c/s1600/DSCF1567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIKdbiHhedsKLLx80b_Dn1DN047b2qVs7nbFasSeXH1nOxQ8rnyfMpnYkSSIq9mO5bqlIB8y2KxsGSK-_cpO62-c3s4-KDWm_xZdKgUh8xDqWARNYeuS1WKW0RwTiMcA1OAxCKvz7rDq2c/s320/DSCF1567.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ellie at the start of the traverse.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCWruCrjBVkvxLMbW-lEc9ULJr9vIBIUS3pO633d8GzbVcwiDupGKxXN9Ne2I-7wzwcfcUpeMHauhyphenhyphenvS0hKnm2LqLpCXIvdP74qqia-VG1cOexTdMpWu91wGccYxRIXjqhyxM10KL-8iPA/s1600/DSCF1569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCWruCrjBVkvxLMbW-lEc9ULJr9vIBIUS3pO633d8GzbVcwiDupGKxXN9Ne2I-7wzwcfcUpeMHauhyphenhyphenvS0hKnm2LqLpCXIvdP74qqia-VG1cOexTdMpWu91wGccYxRIXjqhyxM10KL-8iPA/s320/DSCF1569.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ellie joining me at the belay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Next up was Barbarian (E1 5b) due to laziness and my misreading of the guidebook. We had considered doing Scratch Arête (HVS 5a) however I was looking at the wrong thing in the guidebook and by the time Ellie pointed this out I’d psyched myself up and our bags were conveniently at the base of the route. Ellie led off, again up a fairly easy pitch but with sparse gear into a really cool belay position. Then it was my turn… ‘Oh dear, this looks hard’ was the first thought through my head, looking up at two roof sections to come. Racked up and psyched up, I set off. A major faux par occurred, as I was standing above Ellie’s head I looked down and calmly stated: ‘Watch out, if I fall you’re going to get my nuts in your face’. After messing around over the first roof section, you travel up a slab and hit the second roof. Throw in a hex and a large cam and you’ll be safe travelling out to the belay. Embarrassingly I got mentally boxed out, not realising the belay was so close, therefore plenty of swearing and eventually a rest on the rope was required. As soon as I saw the belay my head calmed down and went straight there. The plan had been for me to do the final pitch as well however with bad rope drag and needing a breather I set the belay up. Ellie cruised up the first roof and slab. She had plenty of fun with the last roof, including a wonderful leg/hip jam half way out of the roof. She soon joined me at the belay then pushed on to the top. We ab’ed off as it was getting dark. Getting back to the road was fun with one head torch.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrXOebXV47FtHCyzkS6G9g7fK0CTKUBHZ92kc8tfaOKbvBI8LOuZM49ZSjR6WPYpim0grALJ1t4Fqkerq2o5X0pRtPg1EmKYaKSyvD2CZYYlqCdYljqiVyoz6qARQ0rZbZKcqmdflLTzJj/s1600/DSCF1574.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrXOebXV47FtHCyzkS6G9g7fK0CTKUBHZ92kc8tfaOKbvBI8LOuZM49ZSjR6WPYpim0grALJ1t4Fqkerq2o5X0pRtPg1EmKYaKSyvD2CZYYlqCdYljqiVyoz6qARQ0rZbZKcqmdflLTzJj/s320/DSCF1574.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watching Gwen, Meg and Will doing the first pitch of Scratch from the first belay of Barbarian.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr-j5NoVCZ2fMF-iJa47EEzZNYrlxCzFayqh_5rShrBiw-2kNcLhoXceaB8ugJgtI7FK_yaUie-1lw-vryt8c46_a_9DE3BdpMQV8uInej0ho8zvtuSCrEaF8t1SHeLtFAvEQ9zZCPx-Q0/s1600/DSCF1575.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr-j5NoVCZ2fMF-iJa47EEzZNYrlxCzFayqh_5rShrBiw-2kNcLhoXceaB8ugJgtI7FK_yaUie-1lw-vryt8c46_a_9DE3BdpMQV8uInej0ho8zvtuSCrEaF8t1SHeLtFAvEQ9zZCPx-Q0/s320/DSCF1575.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ellie at the first belay, note guidebook down top. My faux par was to happen in about five minutes.</td></tr>
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</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMVUcdKcTrnkVmLMAI238WzLRxgYXdzfJzqY84ziqO8i96k9HDks4ATd0VPlBcCeQJcTnsvXgubxTt6phGigT-wQD3uubYQiTKNrCfS4-x0dnTdhDEw2KZldf9X-M4JIqUErIPTbtpo6eN/s1600/DSCF1578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMVUcdKcTrnkVmLMAI238WzLRxgYXdzfJzqY84ziqO8i96k9HDks4ATd0VPlBcCeQJcTnsvXgubxTt6phGigT-wQD3uubYQiTKNrCfS4-x0dnTdhDEw2KZldf9X-M4JIqUErIPTbtpo6eN/s320/DSCF1578.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up at the roof sections to come.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBvLnXMWlEK5i57zX9t3mdOo8ya7EqOzYV3mamKvGGSG1KBSMFg6LeBfiKyTetoCLhxY47JO5_CA-XXA9FDGCzpS1CboTsLMpWwNzVGhiH7Xj8EHL9BhiSSLwCSqG0A1qfUD_7u75NmuVG/s1600/DSCF1580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBvLnXMWlEK5i57zX9t3mdOo8ya7EqOzYV3mamKvGGSG1KBSMFg6LeBfiKyTetoCLhxY47JO5_CA-XXA9FDGCzpS1CboTsLMpWwNzVGhiH7Xj8EHL9BhiSSLwCSqG0A1qfUD_7u75NmuVG/s320/DSCF1580.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down from the second belay, notice Ellie's little blue helmet in the corner.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">A fantastic day out for both of us. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">As for motorbikes, the Transalp is running fine, apart from giving a false neutral whilst overtaking the other day (a heart in mouth moment!) but that was more down to my error and having to now wear winter gloves (also Hondas are known for it, it does feel like the smoothest first to second gear change ever, though!) Yes it is now cold, winter gear is out and I think that the thermals will be out soon as well. I’m looking at getting metal panniers and other luggage, if anyone else is interested this company gets good reviews and is reasonably priced: <a href="http://www.touratech.co.uk/">http://www.touratech.co.uk/</a>. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Charley Boorman is doing silly things again in Canada, involving motorbikes and other adventures. The T.V. show is called Extreme Frontiers, it is being shown on Channel 5. Web address: <a href="http://www.channel5.com/shows/charley-boormans-extreme-frontiers">http://www.channel5.com/shows/charley-boormans-extreme-frontiers</a>. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">There is a great charity in Africa that has realised the potential of motorbiking, ‘Riders for Health’. Their website: <a href="http://www.riders.org/default.aspx">http://www.riders.org/default.aspx</a>. With it being that horrible time of year (Christmas), it might be worth looking into them as a present for family, friends etc. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">And for some music: </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdQhxztj8Cc">B Complex: Beautiful Lies VIP</a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYOEGymrYCk">The King Blues: I Got Love</a> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XP4clbHc4Xg&ob=av2e">Rise Against: Make it Stop (September’s Children)</a><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XP4clbHc4Xg&ob=av2e"></a> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">P.s. Malt Loaf is a wonderful food for cragging and I would recommend it becomes a staple requirement in any climbers rucksack. </div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-43610141532048869182011-11-21T17:34:00.000+00:002011-11-21T17:34:05.862+00:00Sunshine on the Slate<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:DocumentProperties> <o:Version>14.00</o:Version> </o:DocumentProperties> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<div class="MsoNormal">Winter is well and truly on its way, but as usual in the U.K. it is unpredictable. Dark nights, check, rain every other day, check, cold weather, not arrived. Recently the unseasonably warm weather has been providing great opportunities for climbers in North Wales. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">This last week has been one of completing university tasks and staring out of the window at the remarkably sunny, dry hills of Snowdonia (wishing the work to be done). If anyone wants to do some research on the concept of national identity in England, Wales and Scotland during 450-1000 I can now point you in the right direction.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Wanting a mid-week fix, Gwen and I went on Wednesday afternoon to Australia Quarry (the Sidings Area). We did a series of routes that I’d done in September (why when repeating a route is it always harder?). Gwen raced up Orangutan Overhang (F6a+) and Cyber World Sl@teheads (F6a+). Both are good routes. Orangutan presents some cool overhanging slate climbing with an ace heel opportunity. We did a couple of others then set a top rope up to try Shorty’s Dyno (F7a). It was fairly dark and some (small) progress was made. I reckon with a strong span (therefore training is needed (typical!)) I can get it to go static. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii-Kayhs8YWCISHGUe-Gq3bX0i0uKwcTj-MSzcjrxi8zj6akfDtVRQavw4UMhCxgHz5qVtD4FnzI-ub1fDGPyuErz_oCCrvJAUVoxojxbMhcNVk8mee7273_Es7KwFx6QGft02VBa8aRdT/s1600/DSCF1535.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii-Kayhs8YWCISHGUe-Gq3bX0i0uKwcTj-MSzcjrxi8zj6akfDtVRQavw4UMhCxgHz5qVtD4FnzI-ub1fDGPyuErz_oCCrvJAUVoxojxbMhcNVk8mee7273_Es7KwFx6QGft02VBa8aRdT/s320/DSCF1535.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gwen half way up Orangutan Overhang (F6a+), with the roof still to go. </td></tr>
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal">Sunday rolled round far too fast (with no climbing in). The rain the night before, the closing nights and a half marathon around the Orme limited us somewhat. Guess what: We were back at the slate, Australia again. Splitting off with Tristan we went to the Looning the Tube area. However it seemed as if all the climbers in North Wales had thought the same thing, it was the busiest I’ve ever seen it. Tristan hasn’t been climbing that long but is improving rapidly so I got him on some more challenging routes. He did a couple of F5+/F6a routes then seconded happily up Maximum Tariff (F6b), Brief Encounter (HVS 5b) and Looning the Tube (E1 5a). I completed Turn of the Century (E2 5c) an interesting route in a corner, it feels a bit hairy going for the second bit of gear (a bolt) with possible decking potential if it goes badly wrong. With several routes in the bag and darkness closing in we called it a day after topping out on Looning the Tube. An excellent day and the sun had been out all day long.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turn of the Century (E2 5c) in the corner (just left of the rope).</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Australia Quarry in the sunshine.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig2LBlYyLbyb0_BXERKKx1FW7OnoVQGtj5REM77lp3F4DaNLHcjwiV-xI1xMHHmSAmnWBBH9pgwPlGBISlD_zmQoPG04nKDzQErUkK75FxMYY4SN_JSXwzcQh50R5AC2CUzP_i6-YWpwo7/s1600/DSCF1546.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig2LBlYyLbyb0_BXERKKx1FW7OnoVQGtj5REM77lp3F4DaNLHcjwiV-xI1xMHHmSAmnWBBH9pgwPlGBISlD_zmQoPG04nKDzQErUkK75FxMYY4SN_JSXwzcQh50R5AC2CUzP_i6-YWpwo7/s320/DSCF1546.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two climbers on Looning the Tube (E1 5a).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXjllT0Qqk4rS1t6tgKAQqycdc79lsiEt8N8WgpQfiS7UHxJRP5wy7YpXK46I3r2_NtyQBUz5PA-AlhUyuoO7ZevoDsEBa1-AR8GNyZu1F14RIr41Ik22xPEKvtc8R1Ko-sQJZ_eLaDGe9/s1600/DSCF1549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXjllT0Qqk4rS1t6tgKAQqycdc79lsiEt8N8WgpQfiS7UHxJRP5wy7YpXK46I3r2_NtyQBUz5PA-AlhUyuoO7ZevoDsEBa1-AR8GNyZu1F14RIr41Ik22xPEKvtc8R1Ko-sQJZ_eLaDGe9/s320/DSCF1549.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Henry and Pete on a sport route (on the left-hand side).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4nwyDTk3WWv9I0oiPpXdfNdOcMbMcrUxJVI4xk2O26m_5hMFmrq8ULc3K7mGH3VkbYCgIrK_OGyj8AsBZO1EmQ7u721wvD4R84-sbLH-YoCwNkRr2ki0jaxsiEtJr94o-MSekQj5GX61w/s1600/DSCF1554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4nwyDTk3WWv9I0oiPpXdfNdOcMbMcrUxJVI4xk2O26m_5hMFmrq8ULc3K7mGH3VkbYCgIrK_OGyj8AsBZO1EmQ7u721wvD4R84-sbLH-YoCwNkRr2ki0jaxsiEtJr94o-MSekQj5GX61w/s320/DSCF1554.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Gaggle</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The Kendal film festival was on this weekend (results are on UKC). The series of short films that form Vertical Sailing Greenland are great. I love nutters in it, the humour, the music (however bad) and the places they visit make the film something fantastic. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Whilst on the topic of films, I hope everybody has been watching Frozen Planet on the BBC. It is amazing! Not much gets cooler (pun intend) than filming animals on the North and South pole. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">As for motorbikes, the NEC Motorcycle Live show was on this weekend. I’ve been looking on MCN at some lovely, shiny, expensive motorbikes today. I wonder if I can have a new BMW GS with full metal panniers for Christmas. Doubt it! Also watching the North Wales rally on the BBC made me wonder if there is a bike version. I’m looking forward to being able to kit the bike out for green-laning. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I genuinely think that people who go out seeking adventure, (even if it is just an afternoon out) need a sense of humour even in the middle of an epic. It just makes things so much easier, especially in an epic.</div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-55264369201753640932011-11-11T15:07:00.000+00:002011-11-11T15:07:06.326+00:00Mini Post: Adventures of the Year National Geographic.Have a read. Some fantastic stories.<br />
<a href="http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2012/">http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2012/</a><br />
<br />
I can't make my mind up on who to vote for. So many interesting travels and adventures. I'm tempted to vote for Alastair Humpherys as I've seen some of his mini-films and they are interesting. He makes adventures possible in various ways and points out that you don't need to do the North Face of the Eiger to have a tale to tell. <br />
<br />
The picture of Cory Richards is great, I'm going to try for the frozen face look this winter.<br />
<br />
I like reading the National Geographic (and you should to). It is always a source of inspiration for me of places to go and things to see. Also being a bit of an eco-hippy I think it vitally highlights various ecological issues that are of worldwide importance. Finally they often have "old-stuff" in which appeals to the historian me.<br />
<br />
Also this is a little video and bit of music that keeps me happy: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrdYczRLXkE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrdYczRLXkE</a>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-78599348552032512262011-11-09T20:06:00.000+00:002011-11-09T20:06:19.506+00:00Poor Weather and Reading WeekA fill in post due to poor weather. <br />
<br />
It is currently my reading week. Wanting to see the family and carry out some maintenance on the motorbike, I've travelled home.<br />
Hoping for good weather and knowing that the BUMS Peak District trip is at the end of the coming week (12th/13<span style="font-size: small;">th</span>) I brought home my Trad gear. It hasn't left my room yet (typical after spending time packing it all). I hope the weather improves for Saturday.<br />
A trip to the Nottingham Climb Centre on Monday was good. I think it can be useful to visit other climbing centres now and then. Your training and thinking become stuck with the style of your regular centre, going elsewhere helps to prevent stagnation (the fear of most climbers). <br />
I'm hoping to have a wander on Kinder Scout later this week. It hopefully will provide some entertainment, bog-trotting is amusing particularly after lots of rain.<br />
<br />
I've spent sometime this week with an old friend, Harry Barnard. His adventures revolve around ornithology (bird-watching) in Central and South America. Working as a guide for eco-tourism he is one lucky guy. With amazing pictures of animals and the jungles I've been feeling rather jealous, in particular when he showed me a photo collection of birds that only a few people (including himself) in the world have seen. <br />
<br />
I'm currently trying to work out a few international adventures of my own. A 'Camp America' trip, and with the motorbike: An Alps circumnav (France, Germany, Austria, Italy and back to France) and another trip to Morocco (via France and Spain). Inspiration coming from motorbiking friends and the epic journey that is 'The Long Way Round'. Anybody got any clues where to get cheap(ish) metal panniers/top box? Any mods needed for alpine trips or desert riding?<br />
<br />
With the weather changing, becoming cold, wet and windy, I'm looking forward to winter coming in properly. I'd much prefer to deal with snow and ice than cold rain, at least it makes hiking interesting and winter gully climbing possible (however bad motorbike driving weather). Also winter provides those adventures and epics I like to seek out.<br />
<br />
Hear is to hoping the weather improves (or just snows).Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-7448951252828380582011-10-31T12:20:00.002+00:002011-10-31T19:31:00.828+00:00Sea Cliff and Slate Cracks<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">I’ll start again by discussing the weather. It has improved (slightly). This past week has been generally grey, overcast and damp in the mornings however about dry enough to get some climbing in. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">After a reasonable Indy (Indefatigable Climbing Centre on Anglesey) session on Wednesday the forecast was good for the next two days. Not wanting to waste what maybe some of the last few days out before winter hasty arrangements were made with Dale for the possibility of two day out. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">Thursday (Day 1): Holyhead Mountain.</div><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">After pondering where to go as Llanberis Pass (the Pass) and Ogwen Valley looked very wet, we decided upon a day of Trad climbing at Holyhead Mountain. There were two reasons for this a) Dale had only climbed V. Diff and b) it is easy access and single pitch in case the weather changed.</div><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">Convincing Dale to climb something a bit harder was not difficult, and having Sport climbed with him I knew that he was more than capable. He quickly dispatched Tempest (S 4a). I then led Black and Tans (VS 4c), a good route with a couple of interesting moves. After bringing Dale up on the second he only needed a little persuasion to try something harder. Tension (VS 4b) was plenty enough of a challenge, a cool route with increasing exposure as you get higher, but not to worry there is plenty of gear. Seeing Dale tackle the crux and then proceed to top out was great. He was buzzing at the top. He had only planned on doing a top grade of a Severe.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqW9oyVILWg66sL-fo-Hl5kXLUAoayUc4kRQNTu-ZKwKhMsQF8u-wnrM42Qpw3bX8qtWSRaSl3sUlrRAzXMw5FY8ZuFIYmP3SpDv60CR-3JTGelPgI0VqH62qUCuKzW0bSw_50YdDS9z2f/s1600/DSCF1474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqW9oyVILWg66sL-fo-Hl5kXLUAoayUc4kRQNTu-ZKwKhMsQF8u-wnrM42Qpw3bX8qtWSRaSl3sUlrRAzXMw5FY8ZuFIYmP3SpDv60CR-3JTGelPgI0VqH62qUCuKzW0bSw_50YdDS9z2f/s320/DSCF1474.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dale pre-crux on Tension (VS 4b)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4RobZd9bt5eh_8STWTgyAw8YTtc0C2qpCg2C5ZSKvC3cAisAnFqra3V-Or41lo-c1A3douNYY0CsQQ2GnlzDqM0fuBb7bhUBAaV232wAtuhoQ1naufmxm-2_qPjfQbIsGzsLD4zteIpW3/s1600/DSCF1482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4RobZd9bt5eh_8STWTgyAw8YTtc0C2qpCg2C5ZSKvC3cAisAnFqra3V-Or41lo-c1A3douNYY0CsQQ2GnlzDqM0fuBb7bhUBAaV232wAtuhoQ1naufmxm-2_qPjfQbIsGzsLD4zteIpW3/s320/DSCF1482.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rather pleased Dale</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">I had been saying all day, ‘If today goes well, wanna go and do a sea cliff at Gogarth tomorrow?’ and after seeing Dale comfortably climb I was confident in him. So plans were a foot.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">Friday (Day 2): Castell Helen, Gogarth South Stack.</div><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">Motorbike laden with abseil rope, climbing ropes, gear and people we headed off. Plans were to go and do at least Lighthouse Arete (VS 4c). </div><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">Set the abseil up, showed Dale how to ab with a prussic and down we went. Dale had been quite worried, the names Gogarth and sea cliff demand a lot of respect. If things go wrong they can be a nightmare to sort out. We reached the belay. The position was amazing, high tide was in and the sea was a couple of metres away. Dale suddenly relaxed, mind blown I think. I set off on the first pitch, completed with ease. Dale was up next. He cruised along. A misreading of the guide book by me resulted in him not only doing the 4b pitch but him continuing and finishing the 4c section. Calm and collected the whole way, it was great to see such a change from the apprehensiveness he’d displayed the night before and that morning. I finished, a bit miffed at myself for doing myself out of the crux pitch. We topped out, had lunch and called it a day. The weather was changing, wind was up and thick grey cloud was forming. We considered going back down to do Pel or Rap (both VS 4c) however there had been groups on them. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking at the sea from the first belay</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sea again</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first pitch</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dale cruising up the second and third pitches </td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">Sunday (Day 3): Rainbow Slab/Walls, Llanberis Slate Quarries.</div><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">Plans made at 1.30am that morning with Lewis with a proviso that the weather looked okay proved to provide a great day out.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">Warming up on Horse Latitudes with Horsing Around Finish (F6a/b), was a good starter. Then the clouds looked very threatening on Snowdon and the wind was blowing our way. So more sport was called for. An attempt was made by us both on The Speenal Flick (F6c+) however it out foxed us both. Lewis feeling strong got on Gerbil Abuse (F7a) with only a couple of rests on the crux sequence he topped out. My turn, on the second, from about half way up I was cursing my lack of technique, strength and the route. Finally I cracked the crux move, a real sense of elation came. A good route for those strong monsters out there as it combines a fierce lay-back and slightly overhanging slate. The day was getting on, I’d been looking at Pull My Daisy (E2 5c) all day, I was clear and as a last route of the day I psyched myself up for it. I really wanted the onsight, so it was do or fly, there was to be no backing off this route. The climbing is good but small in places up to a pipe a bit over half way, you clove-hitch a sling round this and push on. There is no gear for all least another ten metres. I was grateful for having my tri-cams, as there is a shot hole as the last bit of gear. Topping out was a combination of relief and joy. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rainbow Slab</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lewis on Gerbil Abuse (F7a)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Pull My Daisy (E2 5c)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me near the top of Pull My Daisy</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: inherit;">P.s</div><div style="font-family: inherit;"></div><div style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">With climbing seeing others succeed is always a great feeling I find, whether it is on a Mod or some mental E grade. It is a challenge that they put themselves to and find a way to overcome it. It is even better when they are unsure of their chances and still manage to complete the route. (With some thought as I was typing I realised this applies to life in general).</span></div>Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2101766977985764393.post-10905288118437303052011-10-25T01:06:00.000+01:002011-10-25T01:06:38.935+01:00Testing, Testing. One, Two, Three.As first Blogs go this one will be pretty poor.<br />
The weather currently in North Wales can't make its mind up, rain showers and sunny spells seems to be the order for the last week and coming weeks. Rubbish weather really for the nature of this Blog.<br />
Enjoying the outdoors regardless of weather is a fairly tricky task. However having friends that are either a) brave, b) insane or c) some useful combination of the two, seems to provide a way forward.<br />
Two such instances occurred over the weekend. Firstly Saturday evening resulted in night (read head-torch) climbing with Jack (a.k.a. Ginge) on the Slate at Bus Stop Quarry. After one windy route (Equinox VS 4C), Ginge fancied a beer rather than another route.<br />
Sunday proved just as interesting, if not more so. A text mid-morning from Pete asking whether I was wanting to do some easy multi-pitch mountain route, was unexpected yet appealing. It was like daring the weather to be the worst it could be with the way recent weeks have been. Grooved Arete on Tryfan's East Face was selected. After completing the first pitch and handing over to Pete, route-finding seemed to go out the window. We reached a ledge but nothing like that described or pictured in the book. The top was insight, so we went up anyway. Reaching Adam and Eve as the last of the light disappeared we were at the summit. At this point the real difficulties started, I'd not packed any food and Pete had no head torch, to make things more fun the wind was blowing such a gale that walking in a straight line was nearly impossible. Nearly three hours later we were back at the car; having walked down, fallen over, bog troted, Pete braking a shoe lace and having the skin on our faces well and truly scraped off by the wind. <br />
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Motorbiking at the moment is wet and cold, it still beats a car however! The chain was replaced last week, why do no-one say that O-Ring chains are a nightmare to get off and on the bike? Replacing the front end exhausts soon. I'm looking forward to kitting it out with bash bars and plate for some off-roading fun.<br />
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Good Night.<br />
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P.s. After being out with Pete, I remembered that I can't complain really a) we had a great day out (what better way of doing it than hanging around on a mountain) and b) I knew that days out with Pete are all ways epics, so why should Sunday be abnormal.Alex M-Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16214697104270695933noreply@blogger.com0