‘It is
not the mountain we conquer but ourselves’, Sir Edmund Hillary
The
quote by Hillary is interesting as it can be widely applied to things in life.
The challenge often is defeating the doubt, the pain and the lack of
motivation. These aspects we develop in our minds, often they are greater than
the issue that is faced. Upsetting our personal status quo is difficult and
appears risky as most humans are risk-averse. Climbing and long distance
hill-walking force these aspects to the front of the mind, to succeed they must
be confronted head on. Humour helps.
The last
couple of weeks have been busy; end of exams, friends that are free all the
time, and weather that is playing ball half the time, so it has been possible
to get in lots of climbing. The only reason this is actually getting typed
because Bangor is having some of the worst weather it has seen in a month or
two. The weather is grim today. So an update is in order.
On
20/05/12 the BUMS visited the RAC Boulders. The collection of rhyolitic blocks
provide a range of problems, from simple slabs to the classic pump traverse (V4).
Warming up on the easy slab routes I then moved to slightly harder routes and
some mess-around eliminates. Stops, Lewis and others attempted to run up the
main slab, a few succeeded. Having seen an offwidth route at the crag above the
boulders Mikey and I grabbed a couple of pads. Some others followed hoping for
a laugh. The route is called The Lightning Bolt (HVS), from a distance it
certainly matches the description, a jagged split in the rock, ominous and
dangerous looking. At the base of the route we arranged a couple of pads and
Mikey opted to go first. Speedily lay backing raced up a few metres and then
threw himself into the crack proper. Then the traditional struggle in a full,
body-consuming offwidth began. A little higher up and the crack drops flat and
to the right, then it turns up again. Balancing precariously above the pads he
tackled the zig in the crack and raced to the top. My turn, mimicking Mikey
start, I laid back rapidly moving hands and feet whilst simultaneously trying
to work out when the point to turn and throw myself into the crack. Once in the
difficulties had only just started, as with all large offwidths they are not so
much about refined movements but more to do with little manoeuvres and
thrutching (a term used by climbers to describe the kind of progress is made
with a lot of effort and little height gained, typically used for offwidth
crack climbing). Once in the crack a dilemma is faced, you pull in right
shoulder first resulting in the body facing the wrong way, you need to turn
around. With shoulders free enough to move about ninety degrees I span so I was
looking out of the crack, only to notice that the rest of the group (that were
meant to be bouldering below) were sitting on the boulders looking up at me; half
stuck and grunting as if I were in a strong man competition. And then I said
it, with a half laugh, ‘Er, guys, I might be stuck’. No offers of help came,
just laughter and ridicule. Not wishing to be defeated by the rock I wriggled
upwards, turned fully round then faced pulling out of the crack to tackle the
zig in the rock. A scary position. I cleared some plants and moss from the
block I was about to pull onto, poorly aiming (most of it landed on my
spotters, sorry) and half belly flopped on to this block. A mad swing with my
right foot and I stood up. Quickly padding to the top, I had a momentary cheer,
turning around the group on the boulders all clapped. Thanks! A few problems
later we set off home.
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| On one of the problems. |
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| Mikey getting in the crack. |
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| 'Now I'm in what do I do?' |
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| Hard work! |
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| 'Er, guys, I might be stuck'. |
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| 'Well, this isn't a marked problem, but I'll try to stay just in the scoop' (Probably V2/3). |
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| BUMS at the Heights Hotel, Llanberis. |
A
planned trad day (21/05/12) with Pete, turned into a boulder session with Pete
and Jez at the Cromlech boulders. The Cromlech boulders are a cluster of rocks
in the Llanberis pass and (conveniently) right next to the road. After doing
some warm up routes including Brown’s Crack (V2, sit start), Pete suggested we
all tried Brown’s Mantel (V0+, but I think it is upgradeable, you can do it or
you can’t. No matter how well you climb it does not help on this problem). It
is a slightly angled block, about a metre and a half off the floor, with little
to grip onto. Grunting, wriggling and lots of laughter later I managed it. Pete
did as well. A great route and worth seeking out, best done in a large group so
ridicule can be made of everyone. We also did Scoop Lip (V4) and I worked a bit
more on The Edge Problem (V6, if including the sit start which is not too bad).
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| Pull. |
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| Pete: Almost there... |
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| Pull even harder. |
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| Jez having a go. |
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| And a bit higher up. |
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The
Tuesday (22/05/12) was a BUMS trip to Castle Inn Quarry, a great place with a
range of grades and literally no walk in (as the tarmac stops at the base of
the main cliff. Pairing off with Libby we jumped on some sport routes. Then we
did the route I had come to do, Pioneer Cracks (E1 5b). Racked up and ready to
go I pulled on. The first half of the route is quite gentle, with solid holds
and jams. A quick shake-out before the overhang and clustering some gear meant
I was ready. The steep section started, the fore-arm pump kicked in and the
race to the top began. Some fiddly gear near the top made the route just that
little bit harder. Pulling over the top I wooped and set up a belay. Libby struggled
valiantly up the route, a good effort for someone who has only seconded one E1
before. I also had a shot on Crosswinds (F6c+) and after several attempts I
reached the top, one to come back to and get clean.
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Me setting off on Pioneer Cracks (E1 5b, in red) and Henry working As You Like It (F6b+, in blue).
© Thea Eldred.
|
After a
late start, via Pete’s Eats and a car boot sale of climbing gear, the Sunday
(27/05/12) turned into a great day. After a quick warm up and a couple of
attempts on the Edge Problem, I wanted to get some trad climbing in. Trying to
work out where and which routes would work best as a three, as I was with Bede
and Charlie, we settled for Clogwyn y Grochan. Sights set on a couple of
routes, we saw that Wind (HVS 5b) was free. Knowing that it is one of the
classics of the crag I was keen for the onsight, with Charlie and Bede wanting
an introduction to the rock type. Wind follows an obvious vertical crack line. Placing
a large cam near the start of the route I bashed on. The hot weather was not
helping progress, repeated chalking up made it easier as my hands were sweating
like mad. The climbing is fairly steady with a great hand sized pinch about
half way up. Pulling through the crux moves felt ace. Once the difficulties were
over I raced to the top. Charlie, who is rapidly improving her trad grade
pulled the rope through and came up on my gear. Bede seconded up. After three
fairly rapid abseils we were done.
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| On Wind (HVS 5b) |
The new
parts for the motorbike have arrived, so I’m able to drive it home. However
really it could do with a new gear-box to front sprocket transmission shaft,
which means taking the gear box apart, which in turn means taking the engine
out (and to do that the fuel tank has to come out and the engine disconnected
from everything). It is going to be a mucky job! A learning experience.
So get
out there and conquer your own mountains.
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