Sea Cliff and Slate Cracks

I’ll start again by discussing the weather. It has improved (slightly). This past week has been generally grey, overcast and damp in the mornings however about dry enough to get some climbing in.

After a reasonable Indy (Indefatigable Climbing Centre on Anglesey) session on Wednesday the forecast was good for the next two days. Not wanting to waste what maybe some of the last few days out before winter hasty arrangements were made with Dale for the possibility of two day out.

Thursday (Day 1): Holyhead Mountain.

After pondering where to go as Llanberis Pass (the Pass) and Ogwen Valley looked very wet, we decided upon a day of Trad climbing at Holyhead Mountain. There were two reasons for this a) Dale had only climbed V. Diff  and b) it is easy access and single pitch in case the weather changed.

Convincing Dale to climb something a bit harder was not difficult, and having Sport climbed with him I knew that he was more than capable. He quickly dispatched Tempest (S 4a). I then led Black and Tans (VS 4c), a good route with a couple of interesting moves. After bringing Dale up on the second he only needed a little persuasion to try something harder. Tension (VS 4b) was plenty enough of a challenge, a cool route with increasing exposure as you get higher, but not to worry there is plenty of gear. Seeing Dale tackle the crux and then proceed to top out was great. He was buzzing at the top. He had only planned on doing a top grade of a Severe.

Dale pre-crux on Tension (VS 4b)

A rather pleased Dale

I had been saying all day, ‘If today goes well, wanna go and do a sea cliff at Gogarth tomorrow?’ and after seeing Dale comfortably climb I was confident in him. So plans were a foot.

Friday (Day 2): Castell Helen, Gogarth South Stack.

Motorbike laden with abseil rope, climbing ropes, gear and people we headed off. Plans were to go and do at least Lighthouse Arete (VS 4c).

Set the abseil up, showed Dale how to ab with a prussic and down we went. Dale had been quite worried, the names Gogarth and sea cliff demand a lot of respect. If things go wrong they can be a nightmare to sort out. We reached the belay. The position was amazing, high tide was in and the sea was a couple of metres away. Dale suddenly relaxed, mind blown I think. I set off on the first pitch, completed with ease. Dale was up next. He cruised along. A misreading of the guide book by me resulted in him not only doing the 4b pitch but him continuing and finishing the 4c section. Calm and collected the whole way, it was great to see such a change from the apprehensiveness he’d displayed the night before and that morning. I finished, a bit miffed at myself for doing myself out of the crux pitch. We topped out, had lunch and called it a day. The weather was changing, wind was up and thick grey cloud was forming. We considered going back down to do Pel or Rap (both VS 4c) however there had been groups on them. 

Looking at the sea from the first belay

The sea again

The first pitch

Dale cruising up the second and third pitches

Sunday (Day 3): Rainbow Slab/Walls, Llanberis Slate Quarries.

Plans made at 1.30am that morning with Lewis with a proviso that the weather looked okay proved to provide a great day out.

Warming up on Horse Latitudes with Horsing Around Finish (F6a/b), was a good starter. Then the clouds looked very threatening on Snowdon and the wind was blowing our way. So more sport was called for. An attempt was made by us both on The Speenal Flick (F6c+) however it out foxed us both. Lewis feeling strong got on Gerbil Abuse (F7a) with only a couple of rests on the crux sequence he topped out. My turn, on the second, from about half way up I was cursing my lack of technique, strength and the route. Finally I cracked the crux move, a real sense of elation came.  A good route for those strong monsters out there as it combines a fierce lay-back and slightly overhanging slate. The day was getting on, I’d been looking at Pull My Daisy (E2 5c) all day, I was clear and as a last route of the day I psyched myself up for it. I really wanted the onsight, so it was do or fly, there was to be no backing off this route. The climbing is good but small in places up to a pipe a bit over half way, you clove-hitch a sling round this and push on. There is no gear for all least another ten metres. I was grateful for having my tri-cams, as there is a shot hole as the last bit of gear. Topping out was a combination of relief and joy. 

Rainbow Slab

Lewis on Gerbil Abuse (F7a)

Me on Pull My Daisy (E2 5c)

Me near the top of Pull My Daisy

P.s

With climbing seeing others succeed is always a great feeling I find, whether it is on a Mod or some mental E grade. It is a challenge that they put themselves to and find a way to overcome it. It is even better when they are unsure of their chances and still manage to complete the route. (With some thought as I was typing I realised this applies to life in general).