What are you looking for? In climbing? In motor-biking? In education? In life? We set goals, sometimes not distinctive ones like “I want to climb route X” but more general concepts like seeking out an adventure, and work towards achieving them. These goals are often fluid and changeable, effected by personal feelings and circumstances. And of course they are all effected by the different favourites of individuals, sport-bike riders want something different to motor-cross riders. Working out these goals, these desires, can take time to figure out. Yet once they are discovered a journey starts. The only challenge then really is to gather the motivation and determination to achieve them (along with funds, strength and skills, which the drive to complete the desire will provide for). The more focus that is given to achieving these goals the easier they become. (Which is why this blog has been so long without an update, a lack of focus).
Before leaving Uni for the summer (which gives you an idea how long it has been since an update) I had a couple of busy days out with Lewis. First on the Great Orme then in Vivian Quarry (in the Llanberis slate quarries). Lewis ready for some trad warmed up on Precious Metal (E1 5b), a route I’ve done a couple of times which follows a leftwards-trending diagonal cracks and edges sequence. Quickly dispatched, we moved to attempt Plumbline (E3 5c) feeling brave (or possibly foolhardy) I racked up letting my eyes wander over the upcoming route attempting to gain information to help my onsight attempt. Setting off the moves were fairly steady, consistent and interesting. The gear was going in well, then it got hard. With forearm pump kicking in on the steep upper section and with a misreading of the gear size I placed a nut that was far too small, I was suddenly gripped, not wanting to fall but unsure of how to make progress up or down. A horrible catch-22 situation. Knowing that if I did not make any movement I would fall anyway, I pushed upwards (following the saying ‘If in doubt, run it out!’). A few moves later my grip gave way. In the air, I felt the rubbish gear pull out, then I slammed into the rock. Lowered to the floor, bleeding from various cuts of the sharp rock and buzzing with adrenaline I was suitably chastised for getting the route wrong. With a pull through of the ropes Lewis set off on the lead to try it, with some effort he reached the top. I eventually battled up the route on the second, wondering how I’d of faired if I had managed to stay on (poorly I think). Next up was Excursion (E2 5b), a great route, with a good run-out towards the end which I did onsight. Lewis having half-watched a strong team doing The Visionary (E4 6a) decided that he would like a shot on it. Misreading the route resulted in him following a section between The Visionary and Clear White Light from about half way. After some long run out sections and hard moves he reached the top (new route: The Lost Visionary E5 6a, Lewis Gadd 11/June/2012). Having a feeling that I would not reach the top and wanting to have some energy left for the rest of the day I did not attempt to second. We moved further along and I did Kanly (E2 5c), which I had attempted when I first went to the Orme with BUMS in the first year. Knowing the route placed me at an advantage, but made the physical moves no easier. The first section is a run out slab, then follows an overhanging hand traverse and mantle to finish. Feeling strong I bashed on, dealing with the overhang section that had stopped me last time. We packed the gear away and headed down towards the Cave, but bumped into Owain, Chris and Gregg who were trying some of the harder sport routes near the Cave. Lewis and myself, psyched for some harder routes joined them. Roped up for Contusion (F6c+) I set off, with one scary clip that involves a balanced behind head reach the route was fantastic. I made a mess of one of the moves, attempting to pull up rather than move sideways and rockover resulted in a fall but that was all. A great route.
|Me attempting Plumblime (E3 5c).|
|Lewis (lost?) on a possibly new route, The Lost Visionary (E5 6a), just right of The Visionary (E4 6a)|
With a day’s rest I was on the bus again with Lewis heading to the slate quarries, with one route in mind Comes the Dervish (E3 5c) the mega-classic of the slate quarries. To warm up we went to the Conscience Slab doing a couple of sports routes (loose and hard for the grade) including Mister, Mister. Feeling a bit bold and wanting some practice for the Dervish, I led Is It A Crime (E2/3 5c) one of the early bolted routes on the slate. Good, run-out, slate fun. Back at the Dervish Slab there was a group on the Dervish, so Lewis fancied a shot at Gin Palace (F7c). Battling bolt to bolt, move to move it was great to see the determination in his climbing. Smears and diagonally-downwards facing edges were employed as footholds. A full-on battle. He eventually bailed just before the pull out onto the upper face, out of puff and with soaking wet hand-holds in the crack it was a valiant effort. Then it was my turn for the biggy, the route I’d planned to do and put off doing since the start of Uni, Comes the Dervish. Racked up, a bit jittery and psyched it was a going to go onsight (hopefully). I’m spare the details as I know several people who will read this want the onsight. In summary: fantastic, long, more of a mind game than physically hard, watch the leg pump. Upon reaching the top, a wave of elation hit me the training, the practice and wait had been worth it. Abbing down I could barely believe that I had managed it, especially at those points where I had felt that I was going to come off. This is where the goal and the means of reaching the goal have accumulated in its completion, as was discussed at the top.
|Lewis seconding Is It A Crime (E2/3 5c).|
|Lewis stuck into Gin Palace (F7c).|
|From below, Lewis' legs are just visible.|
|Starting Comes the Dervish (E3 5c).|
|A bit higher.|
|At the over lap.|
With rubbish weather and work getting in the way this summer has been hit and miss for trad climbing. A visit to Burbage North resulted in a poorly thought though attempt at the Sentinel (E2 5c), with a couple of falls due to no warm up. This came about because I was teaching my mum and her friend Meeta on some routes nearby. The overhanging steepness would be fine without having to place gear. A brilliant route never-the-less. On the same day I visited Yarncliffe Quarry to do Zapple (HVS 5b) a route that I saw on my first day doing trad and have wanted to do since. The route follows a zig-zaging crack line up the quarry wall. Typical crack climbing methods of climbing and gear are all employed. A highly recommended three-star route. Just try and go when the midge levels are low and the days have been dry for a while.
|Me on the Sentinel (E2 5c).|
|Me on Zapple (HVS 5b).|
|And a bit higher up.|
A visit to Curbar was in order, an expectation of sandbags was in mind. Warming up on P.M.C. 1 (HS 4a) was a good start with a switch in the route around half way, from crack climbing to a series of ledges. The exposure of the finish was good (however my mum, who was belayer/seconder for the day thought otherwise). Next was Owl’s Arete (VS 4b) and Bel Ami (VS 4b) both different types of route, both worth doing. Avalanche Wall (HVS 5a) was a great route, using two parallel cracks and then some burly moves to finish. I had an attempt on Elder Crack (E2 5c) but bailed upon realising that from about a third of the way from just under the crux to the top relied on massive gear (head size or larger). One to come back to with some size six/seven cams. To finish the day I got on The Peapod (HVS 5b), a psychically strenuous route that involves offwidth techniques. I fell once, stupidly, near the top of the Pod section having just placed some gear I relaxed and had my foot pop off. Down I went inside the Pod. After a quick breather back at the highest bit of gear I pulled back on and finished the route. A must do route for those going to Curbar.
|In the Peapod (HVS 5b).|
Charlie came to visit a weekend and a bit ago keen for some Peak District Trad. We set off to Millstone on the Saturday, in attempt for Charlie to have a go on the type of climbing she hates, Crack Climbing. With the Mall (VS 4c) to start things looked promising. A good classic (but not a top fifty like the guide book suggests). Next Charlie attempted Embankment 2 (VS 4c) a brilliant route that follows a pair of vertical cracks about two foot apart, she managed to get to nearly halfway then bailed as she was struggling to make progress. A good but difficult introduction to crack climbing. With a quick pull through of the ropes I set off to finish the route. A brief think at the crux was required and soon enough I was at the top. Charlie came up on the second, quite happily (apart from having to really work hard to retrieve her high-point gear). Next was Bond Street (HVS 5a) a wide crack route. I got about half before giving up as the weather was hot and the jams I was using just would not stay sat (more practice I think is required). Charlie got on Svelt (HVS 5a) and then really enjoyed Great Slab (HS 4b), well apart from having difficulties setting up the belay. Next day we went to Black Rocks. Charlie attempted Stonnis Crack (HS 4b) a real fright fest at the grade and probably deserves a whole extra grade at least, but Black Rocks has the most sandbag routes in the whole of the Peak. After getting scared at the crux, she came down I led and finished it. Rain came in and we slowly under the cover of a big rock packed the gear away and went home. A bit of a disappointing day really because of the weather.
|Me on Embankment 2 (VS 4c).|
|A bit higher.|
|Charlie on Great Slab (HS 4b)|
This Sunday just gone (19/08/2012) I went out with some of the Notts Uni Climbing Club (I’m not a splitter for those of you in BUMS) we went to Matlock with an intension of visiting Willersly Castle (limestone) and Black Rocks (grit). My “warm-up” route at Willersly turned into a bit of an epic. Sycamore Flake, VS 4c according to the guidebook, I should have known from the start that it was going to be difficult. A green offwidth to start, led to delicate moves along a large flake, which in turn led to hard(ish) cracks and crimps which were either green, had plants covering or very dirty making easy climbing feel particularly precarious. I reached the belay point amazed to have stayed on the rock. Bringing up my second was interesting as Colin has hearing difficulties, made worse by the fact that sweat stops the hearing aids from working. Trying to tell him information was tricky. Once at the belay we swapped over gear and Colin set off. As the route was harder than the grade suggested and with large amounts of exposure he decided after about three meters of climbing to come back to the belay and for us to swap over, I’m quite glad he did for the route got even more challenging. The crux moves were dealt with quickly as Colin’s gear was sound, but then the rock got loose. Gear placements spread out and rope drag a pain. The finish of the route was gripping, as I pulled myself up the last metre or so on ivy. Belay set up, I took a deep breath and slowly but surely brought Colin up. Adventurous climbing at its best. After a speedy abseil we went to Black Rocks. Colin led Curved Crack (HS 4b) and then we did Lean Man’s Climb (VS 5a). Lean Man’s can be done in two pitches and to give Colin a share we did this. The route entails a lay back on smears for the feet around a rock elephant’s ear and then a series of cracks to the top. Good fun and committing for the layback. Charley and Steph did Stonnis Crack and Lone Tree Gully (S 4a).
|Colin setting off on pitch 2 of Sycamore Flake (VS 4c).
© Charley Carpenter.
|Charley (top) and Steph (bottom) on Stonnis Crack (HS 4b).|
|Colin on pitch 2 of Lean Man's Climb (VS 5a).|
A mini-adventure was Drum Camp, a world music festival in Norfolk that I go with my Dad to each year, except that he is in New Zealand. So with a loaded motorbike I went, partied and came back. Great stuff and I managed to miss all the traffic by filtering passed the cars.
Also I did a cirum-nav of Kinder Scout with my mum. The weird rock formations up there were fantastic. The walk/very easy scramble up Grindsbrook and down Crowden Clough topped the day off. It is definitely a place to visit with the large expanses of peat bogs and weather worn grit boulders to play on.
|One of the many strangely shaped rocks on Kinder, looks like a sheep.|
|Me prancing around on top on the trig point.|
|Some more weirdly shaped rocks.|
Coming back to the start, what am I looking for? Adventure, yes please lots of that. Mentally pushing myself that is good also. But as I go on climbing, motorbiking and wandering up mountains I think I will find different aspects that fascinate me and drive me onwards. It is good to step back and think about these things time to time.
Recently I bought, then actually read, The Rock Warrior’s Way by Arno Ilgner (rubbish, corny title I know). It is a good book, with methods of stepping back and reassessing why and how you climb. There are also exercises in the back of the book to help implement the concepts discussed. He deals with some of the factors of drive, motivation and particularly fear. Well worth a read and dipping into now and then.
Some film clips: