There
must be one of those laws out there, like Murphy’s and Godwin’s, which is when
a deadline approaches something will break, stop working or just give up. This
has just happened with my bike. With less than a month to go till I travel
home, the front sprocket has sheared. I was heading back from Llanddulas Cave
on Sunday (13/05/12), just got on the A55 accelerated to seventy mph and then
suddenly no drive, quickly I swung on to the hard shoulder. I looked down and
saw the damage caused. The highways officers that stopped and helped push my
bike up the on ramp at Conwy were of real help. Thanks go to them.
 |
| Damage caused to the front sprocket cover. This is what I saw upon stopping. Did not look promising.(Gear leaver removed) |
 |
| The removed front sprocket and retainer. Notice the mangled teeth. |
 |
| Wear on the drive shaft. |
On
Monday I looked at the damage and now I’m waiting on new parts. I’ll be taking
the engine block out and replacing the drive shaft when I get home. A messy job
since the drive shaft sits inside the gear box which is full of oil. A
combination of factors appear to have caused the damage, long journeys at high
speed, age of the parts and a slightly tight chain, all of which really come
down to one cause poor maintenance. Woops. So a point to learn from, when
checking your chain tension also have a
quick check of the front sprocket and see if it has any free play around the
drive shaft. Having not done this I’ve paid for it.
However,
it could have been worse. At least it did not do the opposite and lock the rear
wheel up, a skid at seventy would have made a real mess of me.
Climbing
has been great recently, a direct opposite to the bike. Saturday (12/05/12) I
went with Dale to Wen Zawn, Gogarth, to do Britomartis (HVS 4c). Abseil rope
set up, we set off down to the belay ledge. Once on the ledge we had to wait
twenty minutes or so for a pair of climbers (who had just met at the Climber’s
Club meet that was happening over the weekend) to finish the first pitch of
Spider Wall (E1 5a). Dale was wanting to try an lead his first HVS but baled (without
shame as the first pitch was cold, wet and in the shade) and quickly came back
to the belay. A swift change over with the gear and I set off. Having previously
led the route I got on and got going. The route follows a rising crack line,
with jug-like holds for the hands and other quartzite lumps for the feet. It is
fairly pumpy and the gear is regular, but it just keeps going with the pump
setting in. Reaching the belay stance is a relief. I threw a loop of rope and a
sling over the two flakes at the stance, set the hanging belay up and placed
Dale on the belay. On the second he made good progress. On reaching the belay
we switched over the gear. I set off (mainly because last time I did
Britomartis, I’d miss read the route and finished up Toiler of the Sea (E2 5b)
not something I wanted Dale to experience) and quickly reached the top. A great
section of the route, short and a complete contrast to the first pitch, sparse
gear and airy moves. Dale came up and reached the belay ledge thrilled to have
done such a cool route. Dale also did Cursing (VS 4c) at Holyhead Mountain in
the afternoon. A solid lead that he had wanted to do for some time.
 |
| Looking down the line of the first pitch of Britomartis, sea below. |
 |
| Dale reaching the belay. |
 |
| At the belay. |
 |
| Dale tackling the second pitch. |
 |
| Dale on the Cursing. |
The next
day had a slow start as Dylan had stayed overnight, we set off to Llanddulas Cave
and met the BUMS there. Warming up on Spider Mite (F6b) was great but a brutal
way of waking up the muscles. It just kept going, clip after clip a great
route. After a break I attempted Pearl from the Shell (F6c+), falling at each
clip, missing holds and pumping out far too quickly. That route and some others
have caused me to realise that I’m spending too long on the bouldering wall and
not training my stamina. It is funny how you can become focused on certain
small aspects and forget the whole picture. Before leaving I did Afterglow
(F6b) with Thea, a funky run with a good run out. Next I did Grog and the
Donkey (F6b+), I almost had it, then a foothold broke. I went flying. A quick
breather, I pulled back on and got to the top. The crux moves were good fun and
I recommend the route.
 |
| Me on Grog and the Donkey. |
Wednesday
(16/05/12) I went with Chris to Clogwyn y Grochan, with no real set plans but
an inkling that we might attempt Hangover (E1 5b). Racked up and ready to go I
set off on what I thought was Phantom Rib (VS 4c), at the first major ledge I
checked the guidebook (stashed down the front of my jacket, a great place to
store the guide on a multi-pitch) I realised I was about ten metres to the
right of the route I was meant to be on. I was actually on Spectre (HVS 5a)
which quickly explained the difficulty (4c rather than 4a), the line followed a
difficult start to a more continuous crack line which involves a full foot jam
near the top. Chris took pitch two, less technically difficult but more run
out. It follows a vertical crack and then stepping left from under the roof.
The last pitch was mine, a complete fight and of unexpected difficulty. Stepping
up I placed a pair of offsets, and tried to pull myself into the shoulder width
crack. And I failed, pumped out, confused and fearing that I would hit Chris by
peeling out of the crack I eventually sat on the gear. A real shame. Reassessing
the moves I pulled back on, threw my shoulders into the crack, turned sideways (catching
my helmet on the rock at both sides) and wriggled further in. Precariously
balanced in the crack, I fought to bring my foot in and then it was over. Cam
placed and I pulled round and topped out. Chris managed first time on the
second. Good effort. Instead of finishing up Nea, we abbed off, the best of it
over (and we wanted to get more routes in).
 |
| Chris tackling pitch two on Spectre. |
 |
| Chris coming up pitch three post-crack manoeuvres. |
After a
lunch stop, we re-racked and looked up Hangover. Making sure we were on the
right route, Chris set off. The route starts with a leap, quite scary with no
gear. He made progress up the corner, with the crack at its back running with
water. Pulling over the top he had a sign of relief and set up the belay.
Climbing to meet Chris was interesting as I’m a few inches shorter and the jump
at the start was difficult. Swapping over at the belay I was slightly nervous
as I really wanted the onsight and after failing on the previous route things
did not seem promising. Ready to go I set off, I committed to an airy step to
the right and then stuck my hand into the vertical crack line, placed a cam and
got going. Powering upwards I reached the next ledge. A complex step left off
the ledge and a continued push upwards resulted in topping out. Chris loved the
route on the second.
 |
| Chris on the first pitch of Hangover. |
 |
| Looking down at the belay from halfway on pitch two. |
 |
| The second half of pitch two. |
 |
| Ready to abseil off the top. |
 |
| Us and the Grochan. |
We then had to catch the bus back to Llanberis (no motorbike is a real pain), got a quick beer at the Heights Hotel Pub, then another bus to Bangor.
So life
could be worse…
Some
links:
No comments:
Post a Comment