Sunshine on the Slate

Winter is well and truly on its way, but as usual in the U.K. it is unpredictable. Dark nights, check, rain every other day, check, cold weather, not arrived. Recently the unseasonably warm weather has been providing great opportunities for climbers in North Wales. 

This last week has been one of completing university tasks and staring out of the window at the remarkably sunny, dry hills of Snowdonia (wishing the work to be done). If anyone wants to do some research on the concept of national identity in England, Wales and Scotland during 450-1000 I can now point you in the right direction.

Wanting a mid-week fix, Gwen and I went on Wednesday afternoon to Australia Quarry (the Sidings Area). We did a series of routes that I’d done in September (why when repeating a route is it always harder?). Gwen raced up Orangutan Overhang (F6a+) and Cyber World Sl@teheads (F6a+). Both are good routes. Orangutan presents some cool overhanging slate climbing with an ace heel opportunity. We did a couple of others then set a top rope up to try Shorty’s Dyno (F7a). It was fairly dark and some (small) progress was made. I reckon with a strong span (therefore training is needed (typical!)) I can get it to go static.  

Gwen half way up Orangutan Overhang (F6a+), with the roof still to go.

Sunday rolled round far too fast (with no climbing in). The rain the night before, the closing nights and a half marathon around the Orme limited us somewhat. Guess what: We were back at the slate, Australia again. Splitting off with Tristan we went to the Looning the Tube area. However it seemed as if all the climbers in North Wales had thought the same thing, it was the busiest I’ve ever seen it. Tristan hasn’t been climbing that long but is improving rapidly so I got him on some more challenging routes. He did a couple of F5+/F6a routes then seconded happily up Maximum Tariff (F6b), Brief Encounter (HVS 5b) and Looning the Tube (E1 5a). I completed Turn of the Century (E2 5c) an interesting route in a corner, it feels a bit hairy going for the second bit of gear (a bolt) with possible decking potential if it goes badly wrong. With several routes in the bag and darkness closing in we called it a day after topping out on Looning the Tube. An excellent day and the sun had been out all day long.

Turn of the Century (E2 5c) in the corner (just left of the rope).

Australia Quarry in the sunshine.

Two climbers on Looning the Tube (E1 5a).

Henry and Pete on a sport route (on the left-hand side).

The Gaggle

The Kendal film festival was on this weekend (results are on UKC). The series of short films that form Vertical Sailing Greenland are great. I love nutters in it, the humour, the music (however bad) and the places they visit make the film something fantastic. 

Whilst on the topic of films, I hope everybody has been watching Frozen Planet on the BBC. It is amazing! Not much gets cooler (pun intend) than filming animals on the North and South pole. 

As for motorbikes, the NEC Motorcycle Live show was on this weekend. I’ve been looking on MCN at some lovely, shiny, expensive motorbikes today. I wonder if I can have a new BMW GS with full metal panniers for Christmas. Doubt it! Also watching the North Wales rally on the BBC made me wonder if there is a bike version. I’m looking forward to being able to kit the bike out for green-laning. 

I genuinely think that people who go out seeking adventure, (even if it is just an afternoon out) need a sense of humour even in the middle of an epic. It just makes things so much easier, especially in an epic.